My A3 Quattro

[sparrow]

I've been crazily busy at work, and also been busy at the weekends, so I've not done much over the last couple of weeks. However, the interior loom has arrived today.

Interior loom:

Current weight, 1.7kg. I still need to add in the wheel speed sensor wiring, and the throttle pedal wiring. I suspect that won't make a noticeable difference.

Steering wheel buttons and paddles:

Total weight, 0.54kg. I need to connect the paddle switches to the loom still.

Switch panel with breakers instead of fuses:

Weight, 1kg.

That should be quite a saving over the OEM loom and dashboard.

I'm aiming to get the current loom out of the car on Sunday, so I can remove the bits I still need from it.

 

[Rainbird]

Very cool bits of kit. Look forward to seeing the end result

 

[sparrow]

I spent a chunk of this weekend on the loom, and it's now completely disconnected. The only connectors not still connected to the loom were the two knock sensors, everything else came off without too much hassle. I did have to unbolt the entire steering column from the bulkhead to get the loom out.
This is what an entire Audi A3 loom looks like on the floor of the car:

Engine bay with no wiring left:

I'll pull the bits off I need over the next couple of evenings.
The engine loom up to the bulkhead is nearly ready, the connectors for the coils and cam sensor are now here. I just need to work out the pin outs.
Once that's done and fitted, I'll work out where the ECUs are going, and then run the interior cables.

 

[sparrow]

This loom weighs close on 15kg. Now to strip out the 300g I need. I probably should have done a better job of marking the bits I need...

I've also test mounted the paddles and buttons on the steering wheel. I need to lengthen two wires, and connect the paddles to the rest of the loom.

 

[Prawn]

this is insane Alex!

I think you need to MOT it, 25.xx car there

 

[Prawn]

I like the Sambo approach here:

How many stock 1.8T charge pipes can we couple up to make an FMIC pipe run?

 

[sparrow]

I made a good bit of progress on the wiring this weekend.

On Friday night, I started on the loom from the bulkhead to the ECU. It looked like this after a couple of hours in front of the TV:

At this point, I ran out of one of the contacts going in to the Souriau connector. I still need to run the connections to the STC which will add another ECU connector.

I've not heatshrunk it yet, as I want to make sure it's correct. I'll then take it apart, and tidy it up.

This morning I did a trial fitting of all the wiring. It went pretty well, I've got most of the lengths close enough.

Engine loom:

Weighs 0.75kg.

ECU rough location:

Engine loom test fit:

Interior loom test fit:

The interior loom is back out, so I can add the connectors required from the loom. There are a couple I need to work the wiring out on, like which is the brake light pin, why there are 4 wires from the alternator, and which starter motor wires are which, but this feels like a big step forward.
I need to work out where to fit the switch panel. I need to be able to reach it. I'd like to be able to fit a passenger seat, so that rules out just fitting it next to me on the passenger side. Some thinking required.

I also drilled out and removed the ignition barrel and housing, as I don't need the key, and the steering lock was still connected.

 

[Prawn]

All looking very good Alex.

One concern though: Why mount the ECU there?

I realise it's primarily a race car, but surely that ECU location totally halts any possibility of adding a passenger seat for a bit of fun?

I'm a big believer in fun, and sharing the experience with others.

i don't think I could ever do anything that removed options for taking passengers out, even if it were an all out race car.

Plus, with no pax seat, you'll have to let me drive it, rather than just take me out for a passenger ride

 

[sparrow]

The ability to add a passenger seat is high on the agenda.

The ECU will (hopefully) be just under the front of the seat there. This will allow access as well as have a passenger seat, even if the passenger seat is a couple of inches higher than the drivers seat.

I really don't want it on the bulkhead, due to heat, and it being kicked by passengers.
I can't mount it on the tunnel, as that's where the shift mechanism will be. I could mount it on top of the shift mechanism.

The other option is a passenger foot rest, and mount the ECUs behind/under that. That would give me few more options.

I could also make a fascia plate like this, but I don't really want to add that just to mount the ECU to.

I can't mount my switch plate there, as I can't reach it when strapped in. Also, as you can see, a large part of the cross member has been removed from mine. I am tempted to get a replacement.

The shift mechanism should ship this week, and I can then start finalising things.

 

[sparrow]

More wiring progress. I decided not to wait until I'd tested the loom to shrink the wires, as it was becoming unmanageable.
Not much to show for it, but lots of bits ticked off.

I've decided to mount the ECUs to the bulkhead to leave more space for a passenger seat. Thanks @Prawn for the suggestion.

The only bits left I have to do to start the engine are:

• crank plug on engine wiring loom
• throttle pedal wires to main loom (already connected outputs to ECU/STC)
• 12v feed to engine loom
• Fit battery, then fit main feed wires to loom/starter/alternator

The alternator has 4 wires coming to a plug. This is a picture:

Does anyone know all the functions? Exciter/alternator light/??/??

 

[george_seamons]

1= To ecu
2= Battery light on dash
3= Aircon pump
4= Aircon pump

 

[sparrow]

Awesome, thanks.

 

[sparrow]

ECUs mounted:

Internal wiring all laid out.

I'm just waiting on the battery wires, then should be able to start it up.

Paddle shift system has shipped as well.

 

[sparrow]

It runs!! Very roughly, but it runs. The fuelling is horrendously far out, but it runs.

I lost a week due to a stinking virus, but all the bits I needed arrived.
I connected the last few bits up, and started testing. Instantly had a good crank signal, but no cam signal, so the ECU wouldn't synch. Turned off sequential ignition and injection, and it synched straight away. However, there was no spark or fuel.
I then turned my attention to the STC, and had a problem with the pedal sensor values.
It turned out I'd made two small mistakes on the wiring, so fixed those, and everything started working. However, the car wouldn't start.
However, it was just because the fuelling is so far out. It eventually chugged to life. It won't rev, and pops and bangs, but I haven't touched the map, it's just a random 1.8t map I had lying around.

I'll tidy some of the wiring up during the week, and make a list of the wiring that still needs doing. This includes the cam sensor, all the paddle shift connections, and fitting the rest of the chassis loom, such as the wheel speed sensors, brake lights, and more.
@george_seamons Do you know the fuel sender outputs? There are 4 wires. I don't have the colours to hands.

I'll also find out from Bill @badger5 when the engine will be ready, and when I can take the car over.

 

[george_seamons]

Pin 1 (blue/red) = Fuse 28 (activated by fuel pump relay)
Pin 2 (brown/white) = Fuel level sender earth
Pin 3 (lilac/white) = To clocks (fuel level sender)
Pin 4 (brown) = Fuel pump earth

 

[sparrow]

You, sir, are a legend.

 

[sparrow]

Well, that's been a frustrating week. After it ran last weekend, it completely refused to start again. As it ran, it obviously had fuel and spark, and was synching properly.
I worked back through everything, checking all the wiring, checking it was still synching, getting spark, and fuel. This took most of the week as I only had time to look in the evenings.
Everything seemed fine.
Logic eventually dictated not enough spark, or not enough fuel. Seeing as I'd had sparks arcing half an inch from the plug to the rocker cover, it had to be fuel.
On Thursday, I pulled off the fuel rail, stuck the injectors in plastic bottles, and ran the injectors. Immediately it was obvious something wasn't right. Injector 1 would flow a bit, and the amount of fuel would decrease across the rail. 4 would hardly flow anything. Stopping and starting would have a different injector with fuel.
Only possible conclusion is the 10 litres of fuel I put in the tank when parking it up was gone. I grabbed a couple jerry cans, and headed to the petrol station.
Halfway there, I realised what the problem was. I'd forgotten to connect the lift pump! No idea how it ran the first time, and having some fuel just mislead me.
Thanks to @george_seamons post above. I had the pinouts ready for last night. Wired it up, and it still wouldn't start. However, the pump was working, and I remember that the map I had in (different from before) was for 1000cc injectors. I changed the injector opening time, and it fired up straight away.
I may have danced a little jig.

So a week later, I can now start tidying the wiring in the car, and sorting out the paddle shift system wiring.

Before the car goes to Bill, I need to work out why I have no cam sensor signal, and also wire up the fans.

There's loads more that needs to be done, wheel sensors, brake lights, etc, but the engine can go in and be mapped now.

 

[sparrow]

The engine is built, I'm just waiting for Bill to have space for the car. I think that's next week.
I've been working on the wiring, and the paddle shift system. That's all working now. Here's a short video of calibrating the shifters, and then shifting up and down a bit.



Still a bit more to do:

• Alternator exciter wire
• Brake lights
• Fuel Level Sender
• Wheel Speed Sensors. I have a Siemens converter to test.
• More tidying with spiral binding, and cable tie bases.

 

[ayfreetee]

Wow, you have been busy, just don't crash it.

 

[sparrow]

Solid subframe mounts next. Not having looked underneath much, what bushes can be replaced with solid versions?
Seems to be rear and front can be done.
Rear: http://ssautowerks.co.uk/product/haldex-solid-rear-subframe-bushes/
Front: http://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-b...otorsport-subframe-bushing-set-4wd-cars-only/

Both seem a bit steep for a bit of turned alloy. Any other options?

I've got a set of spherical bearings for the front arms. Anything similair required/available for the rear?

 

[badger5]

do you have pictures of your wishbone bushes and how they are to be secured into the wishbones?

 

[sparrow]

These are the ones I have:
http://www.scch-heads.com/viewpart.php?id=44

They're press fit.
I actually bought them for my Golf, but haven't fitted them yet, so will use them on this instead.

 

[snowy]

USRT are worth look

Do solid bushes, also do some rose-jointed wishbones worth a look at

Also rear trailing arm bushes something like those SCCH

Not sure you'll easily beat those solid bushing prices you've found so far though

 

[superkarl]

You can get OEM solid alloy bushes for the rear subframe

 

[sparrow]

USRT are worth look

Do solid bushes, also do some rose-jointed wishbones worth a look at

Also rear trailing arm bushes something like those SCCH

Not sure you'll easily beat those solid bushing prices you've found so far though

SCCH make a lot of USRT bits.

 

[badger5]

These are the ones I have:
http://www.scch-heads.com/viewpart.php?id=44

They're press fit.
I actually bought them for my Golf, but haven't fitted them yet, so will use them on this instead.

not offset for additional caster or anything just spherical bearings then. they look like fun to fit!

 

[sparrow]

Nope, no offset. I have adjustable top mounts for caster and camber.

 

[sparrow]

Massively overdue update.

I was supposed to drop the car off at Bill's a few weeks ago. The day before I was due to, the trailer output on my car failed. I couldn't get it looked at for over a week, so I lost my slot with Bill.

This gave me some more time to sort the wiring, but I didn't get much time. Between moving premises and doing real work, there wasn't much time. However, I've done all the above tasks as well as got the wipers working, and a few other bits as well.
The only wiring left to do is to tidy the wiring to the compressor and air cylinder, but that can't be done until the shifter unit is mounted, which won't be until Bill does it.
Then it's just a matter of sticking down loads of clips to hold the wire in place.

Wheel studs fitted as well, and I checked the 17" wheels fit over the brakes.

On the trailer ready to go tomorrow:

Parts that have accumulated:

KW suspension, solid suspension mounts, shorter driveshaft for the quattro gearbox.

The car knows it's going for some serious work. The alternator stopped working this afternoon, it sprung a fuel leak from the feed to the 044 pump, and when I moved it, there were a couple of drops of oil and coolant on the floor.
I can't wait for it to be running.

 

[sparrow]

Progress?

 

[badger5]

you wanted it dismantled right?

 

[sparrow]

You want to store it on a ramp, right?

 

[sparrow]

It started yesterday!!

So the last 6 months went something like this. Short version without the copious amounts of swearing.

Gearbox - what should have happened
Fit gearbox to engine, fit in car.

Gearbox - what happened
I ordered an 02M gearbox, but was told to get on 02Q. I specifically asked if it fitted, and was told it did.
It doesn't.

The chassis mounting points are different. A hole has to be drilled in to the case of the gearbox, and tapped. Not the end of the world.

Once the suspension saga was complete (see below), the driveshafts were fitted. Or not.
The transfer box on the 02Q is a different size to the 02M, so requires a different driveshaft.
Not only that, but there isn't a VAG parts bin item the right size, so a custom driveshaft has to be made. 6 week lead time.

Rear suspension - what should have happened:
Unbolt existing suspension, fit solid mounts, fit new shocks and springs, set ride height. Done.

Rear suspension - what happened
Unbolt existing suspension.
Try to fit solid mounts. Only 4 of 8 shipped. My fault, didn't read the small print.
Get more.
Try to fit rear suspension. Struts don't fit, had the wrong fittings at the top.
There were no fitting instructions. The springs just wouldn't sit right. Instructions sent, but wrong ones. Many emails back and forth with KW and Bill, until they managed to explain how the fitted.
New strut mounting hardware sent eventually.
This was over the course of a few weeks.

Front suspension - what should have happened
Unbolt old suspension, fit new suspension.
This happened.
Then the car was put on the ground. Even with the suspension fully extended the car was on it's nose. The struts were about 2 inches to short.

In addition the rear, in the lowest possible setting, was far too high.

More emails, and they eventually decided to remake the suspension. This meant another 6 week delay.

Needless to say, Bill had moved on to other projects, so I lost my build slot with him. More delay.

However, it's being mapped tomorrow, and I'll be going up at the weekend to finalise some other bits.
Who knows, it may actually be on a track next month!

 

[Prawn]

Amazing

These things are never simple are they Alex?

I am genuinely mega jealous of this engine build. It's going to be absolutely insane!

Do you have a power figure in mind you'd like it to achieve?

Combined with that gearbox and shifter it's going to be insane!

Please tell me you'll be bringing it to Curby in September? Or perhaps even May? I intend to come in May, but won't be in the A3 sadly.

 

[sparrow]

No, cars are never simple. This was ridiculous though. It's not like I ordered custom made parts made for a new car, it's just an A3. Hey ho.

Peak power's not important, just driveability. At a guess, I'd say 500bhp, but anything over 450bhp will be better power to weight than the Golf. That's 900kg with 350bhp on Bill's dyno.

Hoping to be at Curby with it next month, ideally with some other form of testing done first.

 

[badger5]

well it starts and stuff now.. which is progress.. It did'nt want to initially.. Some wiring swapsies and cam sensor works and we're on sequential injection now, so vvt will also be functional. Front Wheels tracked and a little camber ready for the dyno running in.. Brakes to bleed, having had it all apart to fit the spherical bearings on every suspension arm. Pipes made up.. etc

 

[scotty_24]

Unreal

 

[sparrow]

It's alive, and out for it's first run on Monday. Still on running in map and oil.
After Monday, we'll chuck some proper oil in and finalise the map.

Paddle shift isn't fitted, as I just want to drive the damn thing.

Massive thanks to @badger5 for all the hard work and patience.

 

[sparrow]

First day out was great fun. The car survived, apart from a random knock on the left front every now and then. I think it's drive shaft bolts, but I've not checked yet.

It turns out there's a problem with the front brakes:

The first time I stamped on the brakes, the pedal went to the floor, and locked the rears.
Nothing serious, just made sure to keep it on the tarmac, and tried again. Obviously I had to leave some margin for braking, as there was a lack of front brakes.

Apart from that, the car went well. My only aim was to drive it back on the trailer at the end of the day, which I did.
The tyres have turned to concrete, so I struggled to put the power down. I have a couple of sets of slicks that I'll use next time out. Lateral grip was quite good, and the feedback from the car was good. I was able to get the back to move quite easily, and then control it as well. This was fun:

I held it all the way around the top corner.

Next up, finish the brakes, then test them, and get on another test day.

 

[Prawn]

Great stuff Alex, I was gutted to miss another Curby day!

From the clips I've seen the engine sounds great! Are you pleased with your choice of 3076?

 

[antwan64og]

is that lift off oversteer or did you add the quattro rear end and not mention it?

I'm dozey, I just realised you are Mr DTA