FIS-Control MMI installed. Not quite fully operational yet - this is an "enthusiast" mod which needs a bit of configuration to get it going. I took photos so will do a write-up soon.
Looking forward @Dippy
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FIS-Control MMI installed. Not quite fully operational yet - this is an "enthusiast" mod which needs a bit of configuration to get it going. I took photos so will do a write-up soon.
Here's what you get now. There is no dedicated box (yet), but the distributor (TurboZentrum in Berlin) packed the parts well.
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The first job was to use the "keys" to unlatch the MMI head unit and then pull it mostly out. I put an old towel over the gear shifter and console to protect them. I didn't know if I needed to remove any cables yet so I didn't.
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Now I needed to remove the glovebox. There are 2 screws underneath, 1 behind the fuse panel and 3 at the front on the inside. There are a couple of plastic lugs at the front which just held it in place but with a bit of "wiggling" the unit came free. There is also a piece of plastic trim underneath which covers a gap between the the glovebox and the transmission tunnel. It popped out on its own. I didn't notice it until it came to refit the gearbox but fortunately it is just held on by a single spring clip so was undamaged.
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Now I needed to locate the CAN module. The red plug is just visible at the top right of the picture above. Here's a better one.
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So I removed that red plug ready to fit the cable adapter/loom (after first fitting the plug just removed into the socket on the adapter). This was a bit tricky because the red plug used on the adapter has an angled cable restraint which makes it ideal for use on a LHD car. But on my RHD car this part of the plug fouls part of the trim when inserting it. I thought I might need to unbolt the CAN module but by being careful I managed to insert it. Once the plug was fully inserted, the angled part is not touching the trim. I then fed the cable which connects to the unit through a lower gap (not the bracket which the head slides on) and into the void behind the head and climate control units.
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Now I moved that cable underneath the head unit cables to the other side. Then I connected it to the FIS-Control MMI unit and also connected the other supplied cable to the "headunit" connector.
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Then I removed the cable with the grey connector from the head unit and plugged it into the "display" connector on FIS-Control MMI, and plugged the other end of the supplied cable into the now spare connector on the head unit.
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All done, so now I needed to get this addition into the void behind the climate control unit and below the head unit. There is plenty of space.
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However before doing anything else I decided to check that nothing had gone wrong. I broke out HEX-NET and fired up VCDS. There was a DTC for 5F-Information Electr. (the MMI) for intermittent loss of LVDS (display) but of course that is not surprising. DTC cleared - no return. However there was no DTC for the CAN despite having disconnected the cable. I did an autoscan and all was clear.
However of course I had to switch the car power in to do this and had seen the FIS-Control MMI "boot" screen (a message about connecting with bluetooth) so I knew it was operational. So I decided to go ahead and put the glovebox back and push the head unit back into the console.
Next I followed the instructions for FIS-Control MMI to connect my android tablet and upload the latest firmware, and two graphics files. I had also prepared my first setting file so I uploaded that. The procedure is not entirely simple, but not complicated either and I got used to it quickly.
Anyway when I rebooted to see my successful installation, I was disappointed. No needles on the gauges and no measurements in the list screen.
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So time to test the FIS-Control customer support - which was excellent. Stefan explained that some ECUs can only handle a group size of 8, so I had to remove two measurements. A corrected setting file later the measurements appeared and so did the needles. I noticed that the charge pressure values were wrong and that turned out to be a bug, so a short time later and new firmware, that was corrected. The final part - labels on the gauges - was down to me. I needed to modify the supplied background image using an application called PhotoLine (shareware). This took a bit of time to learn and a bit of care to position the labels. Then I converted the image file using Stefan's website and uploaded it. Here's the result.
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Undoubtedly I'll need to redo my background if I find that my ranges are wrong, but now that I have done it once it will be quick and easy to change. I'll probably also find that my list of 8 measurements needs to change. For example I wanted to see the supercharger rpm really to find out when the clutch operates (so far I have not seen it open!). However since this is simply nearly 3 x my engine rpm it has no value in the long term (and battery voltage will be a more useful reading to have). I have already suggested to Stefan that a second page of measurements will be useful as a future enhancement.
On that subject it is clear that Stefan already has enhancements in the works. So right now this is all FIS-Control MMI does. Although I am happy with it as it is now, I hope that Stefan continues to develop new features, as he did for the original FIS-Control which uses the DIS on older cars. Hopefully other people will buy FIS-Control MMI in order to keep his development funded!
Hi @Tashfeen - I'll fit it for you if you want - I don't think you live too far from me.
The screens are enabled/selected with the steering wheel controls. It's not so much integrated into the existing MMI, more like temporarily switched in instead of it.
Great info. (as always) @Dippy. How long did it take to fit and what did you have to do to fit it (in major steps)?
I have been monitoring the supercharger revs for a few days now. It's still not clear to me all the criteria the ECU uses to decide when to open the clutch. Certainly at low engine revs - somewhere less than 1500 - it is open. So in D4 or D5 at 30 mph the clutch will be open. When I accelerate I can clearly see - and feel - when the clutch closes. It somewhat reminds me of turbo lag. I have seen it open when cruising at higher speeds, but I think it depends on load and throttle. In S the clutch seems to be mostly closed, although I have seen it open at low speeds. I think keeping the supercharger revs on one of the gauges is good as it allows me to know at a glance if the clutch is closed and so I'll get that instant acceleration.
So far my peak boost seems to be around 1.25 bar / 18 psi.
Mine does this, however I believe it’s just the gearbox changing the already preselected gear whilst rev matching the gear is going to select.I sort of follow what you said here. Before purchasing my S5, most reviews where talking about instantaneous power with no lag unlike turbo cars. However one thing I have noticed is, when in D, no matter what speed I do (30mph +), if I completely floor the throttle, I hear the loud roar from the supercharger and the rev counter jumps up a few 1000 revs. After 1-2 seconds the rev counter comes back down (pedal to the floor still) and then the car launches forward.
I've noticed that this also happens when in S, although much less. The power seems to be there alot quicker when on full throttle, in other words there is much less supercharger lag.
Makes me wonder if those reviews that described the super charger as lag free power, did they even floor the throttle!
Because its not an on/off clutch, presumably because it is magnetic. When the clutch is open the supercharger is spinning, but at a low rate. When the engine is idle the supercharger spins at around 300 rpm. At higher engine revs it increases a bit, but I haven't paid attention to how much more.If the clutch is open, and so the supercharger isn't spinning, how does air get into the cylinders...?
I sort of follow what you said here. Before purchasing my S5, most reviews where talking about instantaneous power with no lag unlike turbo cars. However one thing I have noticed is, when in D, no matter what speed I do (30mph +), if I completely floor the throttle, I hear the loud roar from the supercharger and the rev counter jumps up a few 1000 revs. After 1-2 seconds the rev counter comes back down (pedal to the floor still) and then the car launches forward.
I've noticed that this also happens when in S, although much less. The power seems to be there alot quicker when on full throttle, in other words there is much less supercharger lag.
Makes me wonder if those reviews that described the super charger as lag free power, did they even floor the throttle!
Mine does this, however I believe it’s just the gearbox changing the already preselected gear whilst rev matching the gear is going to select.
I’ve found that using the manual mode or kicking the kick down button then letting go straight away and then putting the throttle all the way down immediately this stops the lag feeling
Back to the gear box... I’ve just had mine serviced and I believe to Audi’s procedure to re adapt the gearbox’s values along with an oil change has significantly reduced lag
I believe so (after reading numerous posts) but I asked them to reset it anyway just as a precaution. Its definitely not a placebo effect as I had a Bentley Continental wanting a play and as soon as I hit the kick down the power was ready immediatelyDo they do the readaptation as part of the gearbox service or is it that you asked them to. I believe the reduced lag might be either placebo effect or the service has made some difference ...
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Gearbox reset is available via VCDS. Mine needed a reset last year and it helped. It appears (from the terse descriptions in VCDS) that the adaptation is to do with figuring out the bite points of the clutches, so may be worthwhile every 10k or so. It does click and clunk a lot whilst it is doing the adaptation. See rough overview here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/7-Speed_S-Tronic_Direct-Shift_Gearbox_(DSG/0B5) and videos on YT.