S3 Engine Reliability

acylou21

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Hey guys, forum newbie here
How is the reliability on the new 2.0tfsi (gen 3 ea888) ?
i'm talking about people who put a lot of miles on them
And are there any mods to make it more resisting especially knowing that i will go for a tune down the line.
will forging help on stock ecu?
 
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My FL 2017 S3 has clocked just over 33k and the engine side of things have been no problem. I had a sensor fail about a month in, but that's all. Other elements I have been unlucky with, but overall it's been pretty good.
 
I have a 2017 S3 with 31k miles on it, and it’s misfiring while cold. Took it into a specialist and they said my engine is shot and need a new one. Showed me photos of the cylinders and pistons, and how damaged they are.

There’s big visible cylinder wall scoring and some of the piston heads are not round, and are warped.

It makes me question the reliability of the gen3 engine. I’ve changed my oil every 5k miles.
 
I have a 2017 S3 with 31k miles on it, and it’s misfiring while cold. Took it into a specialist and they said my engine is shot and need a new one. Showed me photos of the cylinders and pistons, and how damaged they are.

There’s big visible cylinder wall scoring and some of the piston heads are not round, and are warped.

It makes me question the reliability of the gen3 engine. I’ve changed my oil every 5k miles.

Stage 3? Gen 3 EA888 has proven to be very reliable so far, there's no reason at all for that to happened unless you're heavily tuned. Even for Stage 2 stock turbo it usually holds up well, it's when bigger turbo is used and the internals not reinforced when problem arises?
 
Nowhere near stage 3. Stage 1+. I have a thread about it here:

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/cold-start-misfires.377313/

Tune has been off for a while but obviously damage has been done, not sure by what since the tune wasn’t really aggressive.

Needless to say I’m not sure what to do now that I need a new engine and still owe a lot on the car.

Interesting.. It's hard to determine the cause now but what tune did you have? Most Stage 1+ is blown turbo, but anyway, there're tons of CJXx used engines on eBay, usually around 3K-ish, maybe find a lower mileage one is your best option?
 
Interesting.. It's hard to determine the cause now but what tune did you have? Most Stage 1+ is blown turbo, but anyway, there're tons of CJXx used engines on eBay, usually around 3K-ish, maybe find a lower mileage one is your best option?

Unitronic Stage 1+.

I tried searching eBay motors (or did you mean just regular eBay?) and couldn’t find any of the engines you mentioned.

I definitely don’t want to shell out $15k for a brand new engine+install.

Are the CJXx engines you mention good? Do they output as much power as the current gen3 in my car?

recon engine?

Wouldn’t mind going that route as long as the engine is in good shape and trustworthy. Any good sources to find one? I’m in the Midwest region.
 

Are those CJX endings the same as the one in my 2017 S3 or are there differences? Is one better than the other in any significant ways?

Definitely an option. How would I know if they’re good and don’t have the same problem as mine? I wouldn’t want to pay that amount and get another bad engine.
 
Hello, bad experience here. 2014 S3 8V (so PFL) at about 50.000 km I got some random "LOW OIL PRESSURE" warnings. Audi replaced all the oil pressure sensor but the problem was not solved. After months and 4 tow trucks, it required the replacement of the complete engine (under warranty).
 
Are those CJX endings the same as the one in my 2017 S3 or are there differences? Is one better than the other in any significant ways?

Definitely an option. How would I know if they’re good and don’t have the same problem as mine? I wouldn’t want to pay that amount and get another bad engine.

PFL and FL should have the same engine, difference should be in the ECU, but they do have different code but all begins with CJX, just check your label to see what engine you have and look for that. And you basically have to trust the seller, usually they’re from wrecked cars but you can always request more details from the seller.
 
I might have this wrong but hasn’t the FL got slightly different internals, I think they have different rods and bolts on the rods and mains ???
 
I might have this wrong but hasn’t the FL got slightly different internals, I think they have different rods and bolts on the rods and mains ???

I did an ETKA search a while back, the engine parts are identical although different engine code, but don't quote me since it's been a while, and just search according to your own engine code?
 
On my second S3 and goes like clockwork, l have been on here for a few years and there's been niggles from other members about there engines, but 2 on particular Audi replaced the car, because it was ******, but overall its a very reliable engine indeed.
Fiddling with the engine ie remaps etc etc well obviously your going to increase the chances of something going wrong with it and basically l don't feel any empathy towards someone who's engine goes Pete Tong especially if it's on a pcp
 
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Yeah, Dandanfings had piston problems too with his tuned S3 and was vocal about it until APR got legal with him.
Saying that, his S3 had every Stage chucked at it
VW even cancelled his order for a Golf GTI Clubsport because of the attention he was getting.
 
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Unitronic Stage 1+.

I tried searching eBay motors (or did you mean just regular eBay?) and couldn’t find any of the engines you mentioned.

I definitely don’t want to shell out $15k for a brand new engine+install.

Are the CJXx engines you mention good? Do they output as much power as the current gen3 in my car?



Wouldn’t mind going that route as long as the engine is in good shape and trustworthy. Any good sources to find one? I’m in the Midwest region.

There is a company in Cambs called Ivor Searle who have a good reputation and my local garage recommend them. Miles away from you though. I guess if you do some digging you should be able to find someone local to you. There must be someone. Perhaps have a chat with local tuning companies or performance parts suppliers as they must have had dealings.
 
There is a company in Cambs called Ivor Searle who have a good reputation and my local garage recommend them. Miles away from you though. I guess if you do some digging you should be able to find someone local to you. There must be someone. Perhaps have a chat with local tuning companies or performance parts suppliers as they must have had dealings.

That's a name I haven't heard in many, many years. They rebuilt an A-series Morris engine for me 25 years ago. It's still going!
 
There is a company in Cambs called Ivor Searle who have a good reputation and my local garage recommend them. Miles away from you though. I guess if you do some digging you should be able to find someone local to you. There must be someone. Perhaps have a chat with local tuning companies or performance parts suppliers as they must have had dealings.
You Cambridgeshire bud? Didn't realise as I am too.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 
That's a name I haven't heard in many, many years. They rebuilt an A-series Morris engine for me 25 years ago. It's still going!

yep still going, and probably because they have a good rep
 
There are at least 3 in my village near newmarket. I work in Cambourne so probably not far from you :)
 
You Cambridgeshire bud? Didn't realise as I am too.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

No I’m in Surrey but that firm has been around a long time and had (still has) an excellent reputation especially for classic car engines.

On the subject of the ea88 gen 3, I changed my spark plugs yesterday (at 19,000 miles). They were ok and would have lasted longer but given they are a bit of a faff to get out I changed them anyway. I peered down with the aid of a torch into the cylinder head and it was noticably coked around the spark plug holes. Couldn’t see any further in. I believe the engine does have a reputation for getting coked up. My car has always run on premium fuel and hardly ever for short journeys so I was a bit surprised. I also noticed that the insulation on the coil pack ground wires had started to deteriorate. It gets extremely hot around there. The engine cover though pretty probably makes this worse.
 
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It’s hard to say if the tune caused it, or if I had a bad engine to start. Or both; the tune could have sped up the process of my engine being damaged for whatever reason.

I’ve attached two of the many borescope photos the shop took. Their conclusion is these bad cylinders are the cause of the misfires. There’s no way to tell exactly how the position damage occurred but it’s possibly due to “pre-ignition”. Could be due to poor quality fuel and high heat. The cylinder wall scoring could be due to fuel washing down the cylinder because of a failing injector.
 

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It’s hard to say if the tune caused it, or if I had a bad engine to start. Or both; the tune could have sped up the process of my engine being damaged for whatever reason.

I’ve attached two of the many borescope photos the shop took. Their conclusion is these bad cylinders are the cause of the misfires. There’s no way to tell exactly how the position damage occurred but it’s possibly due to “pre-ignition”. Could be due to poor quality fuel and high heat. The cylinder wall scoring could be due to fuel washing down the cylinder because of a failing injector.

Pre-ignition is what I suggested in your other thread. If the tuning map had a boost that was too high it may have required more fuel than the injectors could supply. In such a circumstance the mixture would have been too lean and got very hot which may have made pre-ingition even worse. The scoring could have been caused by the piston binding because the mixture ignited prematurely.

Did you nice something was wrong as this damage was being done? Surely the engine didn't sound normal?
 
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Pre-ignition is what I suggested in your other thread. If the tuning map had a boost that was too high it may have required more fuel than the injectors could supply. In such a circumstance the mixture would have been too lean and got very hot which may have made pre-ingition even worse. The scoring could have been caused by the piston binding because the mixture ignited prematurely.

Did you nice something was wrong as this damage was being done? Surely the engine didn't sound normal?

I didn’t notice much, if anything at all, actually. Maybe a little stutter here or there when under full throttle but I figured it was traction control kicking in. A couple other times the RPM’s seemed to have gotten “stuck” around 6-7k rpm and wouldn’t drop if I let off the throttle. I did find that strange. Everything sounded normal though.

I’m not sure if the tune caused it. Can’t say for sure. Tunes are risky though, and after this experience it’s making me question if I’d tune again.
 
I didn’t notice much, if anything at all, actually. Maybe a little stutter here or there when under full throttle but I figured it was traction control kicking in. A couple other times the RPM’s seemed to have gotten “stuck” around 6-7k rpm and wouldn’t drop if I let off the throttle. I did find that strange. Everything sounded normal though.

I’m not sure if the tune caused it. Can’t say for sure. Tunes are risky though, and after this experience it’s making me question if I’d tune again.

It does sounds as if their was some strange behaviour from the engine if it seemed to get stuck at high RPM.

Here is some info on pre-ignition that may be of interest:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-ignition
 
It was pre-ignition that killed my almost new rebuilt engine in the old celica GT4 (it had forged pistons, uprated bearings, head studs, metal head gasket). All the components were rock solid so it exposed the next weakest link which was the engine block. It cracked between the cylinder chamber and the coolant channels meaning the cylinder pressure when on boost forced coolant out the system and all over the engine bay (and windscreen when driving). Part of the problem was a clogged up inlet manifold air pressure sensor, so it momentarily under read the inlet pressure and so under-fuelled when coming on boost resulting in pre-ignition. The rest was a fueling system that didnt have the capacity to supply enough fuel on a particularly cold winters night.

Pre-ignition can be caused by all sorts of issues: Slight failure in the fueling (slightly faulty sensors, injectors, poor quality fuel), excessive cylinder temps, excessive build up of coke getting hot and igniting the fuel early, excessive inlet temps especially on a tuned car. A combination of all the above.
I don't know much about the workings of this engine but I would assume it has some fairly sophisticated protection systems. Its entirely possible that hasn't been working properly either. Even 20 year old cars with knock sensors were detecting pre-ignition and backing things off accordingly to help save the engine. Systems must have moved on since then.

From what I've read / experienced with the stock S3 interooler I dont think I would have any kind of tune without this being upgraded. It just doesnt seem man enough for the job even on a standard car during warm weather. It makes you wonder about tuned cars put on rolling roads during testing. Perhaps the inlet temps are manageable when the enormous blowers are blasting the intercooler on the rolling road, but what about when you've been stuck in traffic and then boot it with the intercooler having been heat soaked. I know from the older days of tuning cars that inlet temps are a hugely significant factor in the likelyhood of pre-ignition.
 
@Svenedin and @Damo S,

Both very informative information. Never knew what pre-ignition was, how it can be caused, and how serious it actually is.

My fear is it will happen again on my replacement engine if there’s something else wrong with my car that could be causing the pre-ignition. I’m wondering if it’s worth it to upgrade the intercooler after reading your post, just to be sure it’s not the cause.

I’ve been in contact with Unitronic, and they’ve offered to purchase my original engine from me to offset the cost of a new or reconditioned engine. Hopefully it will reduce costs a reasonable amount. Not sure how often they do this since this is the first time they’ve ever seen an issue like this happen to these engines out of the tens of thousands tuned.

They’ve also offered to find me a good used engine by utiliszing all their connections with VW/Audi recyclers in the North America. They’ll arange for freight of my old engine to go across the border as well (they’re in Canada).
 
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I’ve been following this thread for a bit and this may sound stupid as I’m not an engineer.
How badly gone is the engine?
Can the engine not be honed and rebuilt with new pistons, rings etc?
Surely that would be cheaper than a new engine.
You would also have the opportunity to rebuild it with better/stronger components and up the power a bit.
 
I’ve been following this thread for a bit and this may sound stupid as I’m not an engineer.
How badly gone is the engine?
Can the engine not be honed and rebuilt with new pistons, rings etc?
Surely that would be cheaper than a new engine.
You would also have the opportunity to rebuild it with better/stronger components and up the power a bit.

I believe it can be rebuilt to great condition, but the shop who diagnosed my car said they don’t want to mess with rebuilding it. They also didn’t know of a shop near me that would want to since it’s pretty advanced and new.

I’m not sure how much it would cost. The shop told me it wouldn’t be worth it, and getting a new or reconditioned engine would be best.
 
Might be a case of finding a shop that can do it.
At the end of the day these engines aren’t any different to other 4 pot engines. There’s pistons, rods, head, cams etc
The new advance features are all electronic and maybe variable valve timing. Strip all the bits off and you will have a bare block like any other.
The company you mentioned is basically gonna take your engine and rebuild it and sell it on.
I suppose it’s the quickest fix by swapping a better engine in rather than waiting for someone to rebuild yours.
 

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