S3 DTUK FSR - Worth It?

CCWS3

CCWS3

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Hey,

Before someone tells me to search for posts relating to my question, I have done so already!!! My main concern is how it holds up over a period of time and if anyone on here with the DTUK box has removed it for any reason since they installed it? All the existing threads are bordering on a year old so I'm assuming a few more on here have made the plunge, etc.

I'm back home in over a week so I plan to do install the box along with an induction kit, H&R springs and full non-res tbe system or catback. Really looking forward to doing all of this and I'm hoping for a neat figure of over 380 bhp when I have everything installed.

So I would like to know if it really is worth going for the DTUK box? I have already been in touch with GNJ and they swear by it and that at the moment is good enough for me. I just want a greater range of feedback before I pull the trigger ;).

On another note, what is everyone doing re. exhausts? I don't know if I want to opt for a full Cobra or not. Not keen on Milltek as the pricing is absurd and I believe it sounds inferior to the 8P system. Scorpion are trolling me at the moment so if I'm not patient enough I'll probably swoop for the Cobra if I'm happy with the note and its performance.

Cheers,

Connor :)
 
Are we though? That's been said for the past year.
 
Revo/AMD Essex has already released their map for the S3 haven't they, a couple months ago
 
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I had a DTUK 'Trevor' box on my current car a Seat Leon FR and it certainly delivered on its claims power wise. I removed it as the car became under braked and no longer balanced to drive but also over concerns that various engine sensors that were bypassed including one that monitored engine sooting (or so I read I'm no expert). I much preferred the map option and in particular the bluefin that I put on my 8P 1.8 TFSI.
 
I guess it all sums up to guarantee.. if you don't mind, the question is quit obvious, a proper remap is the way to go. The have already given you two options.

Regards,
 
So maps are out that don't raise the TD1? That's my concern here and also the reason why I've enquired about the box.
 
TD1 is a valid concern I don't think there is a map that you can put on and take off yourself like the Bluefin you have to go back to the installers as I understand it. Even then not sure if it gets flagged or not. Shark look to have something out as well as Revo but not looked into it as moving from my current 184 FR to an S3 should tick all the boxes I hope.
 
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jasso86 said:
Lots of info an threads about this.. search.

But, yeah all remaps do trigger TD1
Click to expand...

I had searched previously a few weeks and saw that a few maps were out. Not interested if the TD1 is displayed - that's all I needed to know. Assuming if there was a map without the TD1 then there would have a been a lot of hype surrounding it on here.
 
As said remaps are out there and better than a tuning box BUT they do trigger td1 so it depends if you value your warranty as I'm sure that the remap will void engine gearbox and 4 wheel drive system!

If you want to at it safe and can make do with around 10bhp less than a tuning box is the way to go! Doesn't trigger td1 and can be removed as and when!

Also if you have a remap and then have it flashed back to standard it will be still void as what's recently happened to a golf r owner and his poorly car
 
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A box will also void the warranty! It's not hard for Audi to see if the car's been modified with a tuning box and then removed, or does everyone think that all these big brand car manufacturing companies are stupid? They will explore every avenue to avoid paying out warranty claims. Yes you can be lucky and they might miss it, but that goes for both remaps, handheld remaps and tuning boxes, the question is are u willing to risk losing your warranty, regardless of how much you can swing the odds in your favour, all the options carry the same risk. As the op is planning to also change hardware such as exhaust etc etc, getting remapped or using a tuning box is irrelevant as the warranty is already lost by changing the various hardware. And for the record a proper remap is always better.
 
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Tony1982 said:
A box will also void the warranty! It's not hard for Audi to see if the car's been modified with a tuning box and then removed, or does everyone think that all these big brand car manufacturing companies are stupid? They will explore every avenue to avoid paying out warranty claims. Yes you can be lucky and they might miss it, but that goes for both remaps, handheld remaps and tuning boxes, the question is are u willing to risk losing your warranty, regardless of how much you can swing the odds in your favour, all the options carry the same risk. As the op is planning to also change hardware such as exhaust etc etc, getting remapped or using a tuning box is irrelevant as the warranty is already lost by changing the various hardware. And for the record a proper remap is always better.
Click to expand...

A tuning box only fudges the signals to the ecu as far as the manufacturer is concerned it doesn't overboost also ppl have taken their cars after removing tuning boxes to the dealer and nothing has been triggered whereas a golf r owner had a remap and flashed it back to standard and as soon as the car was connected their was a td1 code and it showed it had been flashed whereas that doesn't happen with a tuning box
 
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@Tony1982 Why would a "propper" remap always be better? Remaps if "propper" or not still play with the same parameters as a handheld or tuning box.
 
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Tony is right in what he says, that if a box is found on the car by a dealer tech that they can void your warranty but to be fair there is a simple solution to that which is to take it off before your visit to the dealer job done really ;)
 
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auds2 said:
@Tony1982 Why would a "propper" remap always be better? Remaps if "propper" or not still play with the same parameters as a handheld or tuning box.
Click to expand...


Box will only "play" with one parameter (boost). Remap has a multitude of parameter possibilities.
At the moment, remaps produces more power, and tuner should limit torque to DSG to prevent cutting out.

More:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/8v-s3-tuning-thread.201845/page-25#post-2233265
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...golf-r-turbo-failure-td1.232015/#post-2316850
 
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lee_fr200 said:
A tuning box only fudges the signals to the ecu as far as the manufacturer is concerned it doesn't overboost also ppl have taken their cars after removing tuning boxes to the dealer and nothing has been triggered whereas a golf r owner had a remap and flashed it back to standard and as soon as the car was connected their was a td1 code and it showed it had been flashed whereas that doesn't happen with a tuning box
Click to expand...


Tuning boxes can bring up fault codes, eg:

1 Fault Found:
15343 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached

which may prompt further investigation.............

Also - long term trim values in the ECU will also give things away, in addition to the memory tables in the ECU. I wouldn't say that tuning boxes are 100% undetectable. Someone who is determined could always find traces ............... Prob not at dealer level, but definitely do-able.


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...-pistonheads-golf-r-turbo-failure-td1.232015/


At the moment, the only "safe" route is to get a MTM box, where they offer a full powertrain warranty.
 
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Not going to go too far into this but Derv boxes manipulate fuel aswell as boost and to be honest ive not seen a single code thrown on either with a box on unless the box has been turned up way too high on the car.
 
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Well, I can categorically tell you that all the box on the S3 petrol does, is to spoof boost. Nothing more, apart from a rpm input signal.

And that people have seen that particular fault code thrown on the S3 :)
 
Yeah i know they do cam pickup and 2 boost sensors on the R/s3. What codes have been seen?
 
DOH! sorry haha. If you remove the box tho they are likely to change Boost sensors.
 
There are too many numbers for DTUK: 353bhp, 365bhp, 375bhp. I think these depend on the Dyno calibration, weather, etc
So if you want to decide if DTUK FSR worth you have to read these threads:

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/audi-s3-0-60mph-3-77-0-100mph-8-92.222705/
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/its-gone-even-quicker-audi-s3-0-60-3-59-0-100-8-45.230041/

And i´m not saying it´s better or not than a remmaping, i believe that it´s the better way to be sure your car is performing well with the upgrade.
 
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veeeight said:
Tuning boxes can bring up fault codes, eg:

1 Fault Found:
15343 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached

which may prompt further investigation.............

Also - long term trim values in the ECU will also give things away, in addition to the memory tables in the ECU. I wouldn't say that tuning boxes are 100% undetectable. Someone who is determined could always find traces ............... Prob not at dealer level, but definitely do-able.


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...-pistonheads-golf-r-turbo-failure-td1.232015/


At the moment, the only "safe" route is to get a MTM box, where they offer a full powertrain warranty.
Click to expand...

I can confirm I got so far absolutely no error with my MTM box (checked through VCDS)
 
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I was interested in an mtm box reading this until I checked the price. ... €2000. A lot of wedge. Think il stick to dtuk. Never had any issues with it on my gtd and with the r coming in march/april think il be buying one soon. when I took the box of for service on gtd, not one issue
 
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Circa 370/380 I think it was. about an hour and a half to fit also. Video on youtube of a golf r mk7 vs a c63 from a standing start. As youd expect r beats it of the line having better traction but what I was amazed abiut was that the c63 didnt appear to gain once up to speed which I thought it would
 
MTM is priced accordingly, because it doesn't thrown any errors - 370PS ;)

And a OE spec engine ECU harness.

Plus their comprehensive backup warranty, should Audi refuse to honour the Audi Warranty:

Section 2: MTM Warranty extent, term and scope

1. The warranty shall cover (the list is definitive) the following assemblies and parts:
a) Engine: pistons, cylinder bore liners, bolts, rings, connecting rods, crankshaft, crankshaft sprocket, countershaft gear wheel, oil pump, drive wheel, cylinder head gasket, cylinder block, camshaft, tappets, valve rocker arm, camshaft sprocket, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, cylinder head, valves, valve guides, carburetor, crankcase, oil cooler, oil sump, oil pressure switch, air volume meter, air flow meter, knock sensor, sensors, bearings, idling actuator;
b) Turbo: turbo, compressor, intercooler;
c) 4 x 4: transfer case, viscous clutch, differential lock;
d) Mechanical transmission: sprockets, gear-selector forks, sliding sleeves, drive shaft, main shaft;
e) Automatic transmission: shafts, planetary gear sets, disks, belts, valves, oil pump, governor, safety valves;
f) Axle drive: differential, sprockets, wheel bearings;
g) Power take-off shafts: propshafts, propshaft bearings, final drive shafts, electronic control units;
h) Brakes: brake booster, main brake cylinder, vacuum pump, brake-power regulator, brake-force limiter, ABS control unit;
i) Suspension: lower and upper rocker arms, suspension arm rings, axles and suspensions, king pins and rings, wishbones, track rods;
j) Electrical system: alternator, starter motor, windscreen wiper motor,
 
veeeight said:
MTM is priced accordingly, because it doesn't thrown any errors - 370PS ;)

And a OE spec engine ECU harness.

Plus their comprehensive backup warranty, should Audi refuse to honour the Audi Warranty:

Section 2: MTM Warranty extent, term and scope

1. The warranty shall cover (the list is definitive) the following assemblies and parts:
a) Engine: pistons, cylinder bore liners, bolts, rings, connecting rods, crankshaft, crankshaft sprocket, countershaft gear wheel, oil pump, drive wheel, cylinder head gasket, cylinder block, camshaft, tappets, valve rocker arm, camshaft sprocket, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, cylinder head, valves, valve guides, carburetor, crankcase, oil cooler, oil sump, oil pressure switch, air volume meter, air flow meter, knock sensor, sensors, bearings, idling actuator;
b) Turbo: turbo, compressor, intercooler;
c) 4 x 4: transfer case, viscous clutch, differential lock;
d) Mechanical transmission: sprockets, gear-selector forks, sliding sleeves, drive shaft, main shaft;
e) Automatic transmission: shafts, planetary gear sets, disks, belts, valves, oil pump, governor, safety valves;
f) Axle drive: differential, sprockets, wheel bearings;
g) Power take-off shafts: propshafts, propshaft bearings, final drive shafts, electronic control units;
h) Brakes: brake booster, main brake cylinder, vacuum pump, brake-power regulator, brake-force limiter, ABS control unit;
i) Suspension: lower and upper rocker arms, suspension arm rings, axles and suspensions, king pins and rings, wishbones, track rods;
j) Electrical system: alternator, starter motor, windscreen wiper motor,
Click to expand...


Not even TD1?
 
How and where does the MTM plug into then?
Is it ECU/EOBD?
 
Well chaps looks like a new DTUK FSR+ is on the way so will wait for that
 
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audi upgrades
Does anyone have the link were you can buy the DTUK box for our s3's?
 
I've just fit mine last weekend and more than happy with it and I have the pedal box. Works well with my forge intake as a package I recommend it. Once I have all the mods to go over stage 2+ or higher then I will get it remapped properly.
 
veeeight said:
MTM is priced accordingly, because it doesn't thrown any errors - 370PS ;)

And a OE spec engine ECU harness.

Plus their comprehensive backup warranty, should Audi refuse to honour the Audi Warranty:

Section 2: MTM Warranty extent, term and scope

1. The warranty shall cover (the list is definitive) the following assemblies and parts:
a) Engine: pistons, cylinder bore liners, bolts, rings, connecting rods, crankshaft, crankshaft sprocket, countershaft gear wheel, oil pump, drive wheel, cylinder head gasket, cylinder block, camshaft, tappets, valve rocker arm, camshaft sprocket, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, cylinder head, valves, valve guides, carburetor, crankcase, oil cooler, oil sump, oil pressure switch, air volume meter, air flow meter, knock sensor, sensors, bearings, idling actuator;
b) Turbo: turbo, compressor, intercooler;
c) 4 x 4: transfer case, viscous clutch, differential lock;
d) Mechanical transmission: sprockets, gear-selector forks, sliding sleeves, drive shaft, main shaft;
e) Automatic transmission: shafts, planetary gear sets, disks, belts, valves, oil pump, governor, safety valves;
f) Axle drive: differential, sprockets, wheel bearings;
g) Power take-off shafts: propshafts, propshaft bearings, final drive shafts, electronic control units;
h) Brakes: brake booster, main brake cylinder, vacuum pump, brake-power regulator, brake-force limiter, ABS control unit;
i) Suspension: lower and upper rocker arms, suspension arm rings, axles and suspensions, king pins and rings, wishbones, track rods;
j) Electrical system: alternator, starter motor, windscreen wiper motor,
Click to expand...
Thank you @veeeight
I've had my MTM box on since November, and it's absolutely fantastic. I've removed and refitted it once, taking literally two minutes. It plugs into the CanBUS harness between the ECU and loom, using OEM Bosch connectors and wiring, so it's one clamped multiplug to completely remove.
I'm led to believe that it takes off from a lot more data than other options. I have a VWR R600 intake, Forge intake pipe and soon to be adding a CTS TIP elbow and the car is seriously fast/quick. Completely OEM power delivery, drive and running. Very economical when you're not pressing on!
I'd estimate with my combination of mods that I'm making about 385hp but that's just a guess.
 
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I'm hope for roughly the same figures once I get my CTS elbow. I'm impressed at how quick my car is now.
 
batch said:
Thank you @veeeight
I've had my MTM box on since November, and it's absolutely fantastic. I've removed and refitted it once, taking literally two minutes. It plugs into the CanBUS harness between the ECU and loom, using OEM Bosch connectors and wiring, so it's one clamped multiplug to completely remove.
I'm led to believe that it takes off from a lot more data than other options. I have a VWR R600 intake, Forge intake pipe and soon to be adding a CTS TIP elbow and the car is seriously fast/quick. Completely OEM power delivery, drive and running. Very economical when you're not pressing on!
I'd estimate with my combination of mods that I'm making about 385hp but that's just a guess.
Click to expand...
What times are you getting from 62 to 124 mph ?
 
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