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S3 boost issues

danny_dj3 Jan 8, 2020

  1. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    Hi all, new to the forums and looking for a little help;

    Bought a 2001 amk s3 just before xmas as a treat for myself, however there are a few issues that have popped up and to be honest, I have searched the pages here for hours trying to find answers with respect to boost issues/ leaks.
    The problem is when I set off, I have good boost in 1st gear, then as soon as i grab 2nd its as if the boost has simply died, then reapears in 3rd and goes like a train to about 4500 rpm where it feels like boost is dropping again. After various youtube vids and searching the forums, i put it down to the n75 which i swapped out for a new one this afternoon, however after a quick run about the its still not right. So i read a bit more here, and a lot of peaple seem quite set that running a dump valve is bad. The car has a remap by AmD and on the recipt it states a forge dump valve was fitted [gonna try and bell em tomorrow and see what map it got] but looking at it, it appears to be a recirc/blow off valve.
    All lines seem in good condition, altho no doubt a smoke test would be a good idea.

    I'm wondering if i should get a straight divertor like the 007p or if the one thats running is on because of the tune.

    I'm also looking for recomendations for a good S3 specialist in the Manchester area :)

    sorry if this has been posted prior, just cant get my head around the on/off boost and the more i think on it, the more i think its the dv.

    thanks all,

    Danny
     
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  3. mrsingh2u

    mrsingh2u Member

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    Not sure the DV will cause it to give you your intermittent boost issue, however, it wouldnt hurt to go for a 007p/stock Bosch/GFB DV. If you have one of the SplitR ones, bin it, they're poo and cause all kinds of problems...

    Check all your hose clamps are tight, check the hoses are all ok (smoke test would cover the above). One other thing to consider is that in some cases, the TIP has been known to collapse on itself while the turbo is sucking in air, so check on that while you can too.

    If none of those things work, get the car scanned/logged with VCDS and use that to figure out exactly what's going on.

    I'm running on the assumption that you use V-Power/Tesco Momentum fuel, but if you are just using regular fuel, it could be a contributing factor

    Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2020
  4. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    Yup, thats pretty much what i was thinking about the forge splitter thats currently on, as so many peaple here recommend a standard/007p because its the way the car is supposed to run. I did have the management light come on whilst driving to work so nipped to my mechanic who scanned it , 5 faults were brought up, one of which being for mechanical turbo failure, which i was told could possible be the wastegate not closing properly. Ithink the others were for the alarm, an o2 sensor and some minor stuff
    The turbo seems fine, no play nor damage thats visable.

    failing actuator maybe? Would that match the symptoms of the boost dropping and not being there for 2nd as the wastegate is still shutting?

    been a while since i got into cars, a wife, 4 kids and a business take up most of my time xD
     
  5. mrsingh2u

    mrsingh2u Member

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    Best thing to do would be to first eliminate any boost leaks and investigate any O2 sensor issues if you have them (dont remember if AMK is wide or narrowband - I'm sure smarter people than I will chime in with better info!)

    Can possibly use VCDS to log actual vs requested boost but I'm not sure how much information that will yield - I would say first port of call is a smoke test

    Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
     
  6. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    The specialist I use in Manchester Is awesome gti or unicorn motorsport in stockport
     
  7. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    cheers for the replies fella's, at least now i have a route to go at it :D
     
  8. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    Vcds scan should be your 1st thing to do, if you don’t have it I’m in Manchester if you want it scanning save you paying for it
     
  9. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    Also just get the oem recirc valve the forge 007p is no better than the standard one
     
  10. badger5

    badger5 www.badger5.co.uk Site Sponsor

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    check fault codes for why its probably dropping into limp mode.
    have you checked codes yet?
    VCDS is your friend for S3 ownership
     
  11. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    Aye, I will try and grab a standard tomorrow if i get chance, TPS / euro i guess.

    Tj, thanks for the offer, I know my usual garage has a snap- on diagnostics, not too sure about VCDS tho. [not really up to date on current fault finding equipment] so if you are ok for me to pop down over a weekend, that would be great :)
     
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  13. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    Yeah that’s fine , I’m in burnage
    Tps can be a bit funny saying it’s trade only but Trafford seem to be a bit relaxed on it if not audi dealership
     
  14. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    checked awesome, and they have them in so might hit there on my way out to a job, will post up n let you know how it goes.
     
  15. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    big thanks to TJ, ran the VCDS :)

    4 Faults Found:
    17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
    P1200 - 35-00 - Mechanical Malfunction
    17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add)
    P1136 - 35-10 - System too Lean - Intermittent
    18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
    P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
    17511 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S1
    P1103 - 35-00 - Performance too Low
    Readiness: 0010 0001

    so n249 faulty, not the n75 that i replaced.

    other issues found seem to be central locking/alarm based.

    13 Faults Found:
    01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
    35-00 - -
    01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side
    35-00 - -
    01372 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Passenger Side
    35-00 - -
    01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
    35-00 - -
    01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
    35-00 - -
    01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
    35-00 - -
    01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch
    35-00 - -
    01365 - Lock/Unlock Switch; Interior
    29-00 - Short to Ground
    00991 - Interior Lights
    28-00 - Short to Plus
    00955 - Key 1
    09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
    01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
    76-00 - Terminal 30 missing
    01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
    77-00 - Internal Supply Voltage
    01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
    49-00 - No Communications

    5 Faults Found:
    01377 - Ultra Sonic Sensor for Alarm System; Left (G170)
    27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
    01378 - Ultra Sonic Sensor for Alarm System; Right (G171)
    27-00 - Implausible Signal
    01380 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Rear Left
    35-00 - -
    01381 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Rear Right
    35-00 - -
    01382 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Front Left
    35-00 - -
     
  16. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow... Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    I doubt the N249 is faulty... That code means the ecu tried to use the N249 to actuate the dump valve and didn't see the boost drop quickly enough...

    This pops up when you have a faulty DV, air leak or N249 bypass

    <tuffty/>
     
  17. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    ahh, gotcha. nope, no n249 bypass there, its all stock, the DV is still the forge dump/splitter as as i was late gettin to awesome for a divertor today, but will still swap that out. I have noticed the revs seem to drop quite slowly, might just be im used to diesel engines, but it does feels sorta slow and to be honest, i did wonder about that. I know i have alarm issues, the keyfob does nothing after replacing the batteries, and im a little sketchy on how to recode the key, prob gonna be a dealer fix.
    My main concern is just to get it running mechanically right, the rest i have plenty of time to sort.

    Would it be an idea to try bypassing the n249 and connect direct from manifold to dv just as a test to see if its messing about, as the management lights back, or just order up a divertor and see how she runs?

    gonna defo get it in for a smoke test next week too :p
     
  18. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    Recoding the keys can be done with vcds as well do you have both the keys ?

    just a thought but when my fob wasn’t working and had to use the key you only have a few seconds to turn ignition on or the alarm goes off, they might why you have codes in the alarm
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2020
  19. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    nope only got the one key with it but thats exactly what happens, key in door, drivers side unlocks, jump in alarm flashes but no siren/horn and the key disables the alarm. then the rest of the doors unlock. I did read somewhere on the forums that there is a battery on the alarm horn that can cause this kinda fault when its drained. I also get the alarm beeps from the dash.
    auto electrician required i think, I hate messing with the alarm system :D
     
  20. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    The alarm siren battery leaks and corrodes the pcb, it won’t set the alarm off it just that the siren won’t work they are in the boot on passenger side easy enough to swap once you get to it
     
  21. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow... Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    Resyncing a key to allow it to open/close on button press can be done without VCDS.... procedure is in the handbook...

    VCDS is required to add new keys (to immo) but you need the SKC code to be able to login and do that

    <tuffty/>
     
    danny_dj3 likes this.
  22. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    Cheers tuffty, i had tried previously to re sync it, but it just didnt want to know. Just gone out, followed the rather easy instructions and its worked just fine.
     
  23. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    I couldn’t get it to work properly on mine would need redoing a few days later
     
  24. danny_dj3

    danny_dj3 New Member

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    ordered a divertor from awesome today, none in stock so a few days wait on that, going with standard bosch so hopefully by weekend, should have a better idea whats going on. On the plus side, the key is still working so thats good :D
     

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