S3 8V Sportback Manual Running in....

cpc_s3

S3 8V Sprtbk
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Afternoon Fellow Forum Faces,

I have never had a new car before so first time doing this, how you suggest i run in my new s3 when i pick it up?

I have heard so many different things, open to suggestions

Thanks Everybody
 
Hi check out section 190 of the owners Manual
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/a3-s3-8v-owners-manual-pdf-download.247498/
I have downloaded the latest version from the Audi website somewhere...

Basically standard advise
1st 1000km (600m) only use 2/3rds engine revs, gradually increase then on up to 900 miles.. no towing.. avoid low revs in gear

then you can rev the nuts off it and drive at 155mph (limited) until the police stop you... ;) disclaimer: not me
 
mine is Stronic but the premise is the same.

always ensure you warm it up properly - this stands for when it is run in too. I never put load on my engine until the oil hits 90degs

Take it easy for the first 500 miles and keep it below 4k. But don't run the revs too low, and try to not to sit at the same engine speed for extended periods. Go up and down the gears if you are cruising, to vary it. In the very first few miles let the revs build and then let them die back down on engine breaking, this will help the motor to bed in initially.

Then after the first 500 gradually raise the revs over the next 200 odd miles and then just drive it like normal.

even keeping it below 4k it will have plenty of poke!!
 
Hi check out section 190 of the owners Manual
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/a3-s3-8v-owners-manual-pdf-download.247498/
I have downloaded the latest version from the Audi website somewhere...

Basically standard advise
1st 1000km (600m) only use 2/3rds engine revs, gradually increase then on up to 900 miles.. no towing.. avoid low revs in gear

then you can rev the nuts off it and drive at 155mph (limited) until the police stop you... ;) disclaimer: not me
thanks mate much appreciated :)
 
mine is Stronic but the premise is the same.

always ensure you warm it up properly - this stands for when it is run in too. I never put load on my engine until the oil hits 90degs

Take it easy for the first 500 miles and keep it below 4k. But don't run the revs too low, and try to not to sit at the same engine speed for extended periods. Go up and down the gears if you are cruising, to vary it. In the very first few miles let the revs build and then let them die back down on engine breaking, this will help the motor to bed in initially.

Then after the first 500 gradually raise the revs over the next 200 odd miles and then just drive it like normal.

even keeping it below 4k it will have plenty of poke!!

thanks mate. warming up definitely i always warm my cars up. especially turbos.

top man!
 
What spec did you go for on your car, and have you got a collection date yet??
i got ibis white, sportback, black edition package Nav and all that malarkay now comes standard on the new 65 plates as a week before i paid the deposit and changed a few things on the car it was a 1500 option. rear and front parking sensors black napa leather with alcantara interior, hill assist. didnt bother with cruise control as i have the adaptive cruise control on my company car and its a bit annoying in traffic. i had to get the 18 standard wheels as i have wheels to go on the car already and the black roof rails is my main love of the car!!!!

oh and that third pedal which seems to being used less and less ha its manual!! i did like the s tronic gear box but i am a manual guy. dont shoot!!

have never bought a new car before so looking forward to it. not sure how modifying works on warranty. my mate tuned his rs3 through Audi all covered so may do the same.

collection date is the week before xmas so nice xmas present for me!!
 
Having had to run in 2 manual S3's in the last few months I noticed on both that the first 100 miles or so in each was very clunky, especially the second one having come from a well run in 5000 mile S3.

Anyway on both occasions a decent 500 mile motorway round trip has smoothed out the wrinkles and as described in a previous post dont red line it in the first 1000 miles (as tempting as it might be) and dont accelerate too hard until the engine temp has got to around 80 - 90 C

You will also notice it getting smoother and quciker as you get closer to the 5000 mile mark
 
i got ibis white, sportback, black edition package Nav and all that malarkay now comes standard on the new 65 plates as a week before i paid the deposit and changed a few things on the car it was a 1500 option. rear and front parking sensors black napa leather with alcantara interior, hill assist. didnt bother with cruise control as i have the adaptive cruise control on my company car and its a bit annoying in traffic. i had to get the 18 standard wheels as i have wheels to go on the car already and the black roof rails is my main love of the car!!!!

oh and that third pedal which seems to being used less and less ha its manual!! i did like the s tronic gear box but i am a manual guy. dont shoot!!

have never bought a new car before so looking forward to it. not sure how modifying works on warranty. my mate tuned his rs3 through Audi all covered so may do the same.

collection date is the week before xmas so nice xmas present for me!!

excellent! Its a great car in manual or auto, it will be worth the wait!
 
thanks mate so a good run on the motorway steady speed limit a good shout? to christen it
 
excellent! Its a great car in manual or auto, it will be worth the wait!
thanks mate

i have had 2 8p's one tuned and one standard and really enjoyed them both the sportback is the family car i am hoping to get over to Europe in it new year. im up for any drives too!!
 
Our dealer didn't see to have a problem with me ragging the nuts off the demo S3 which was below 100 miles on the clock ;)

TX.
 
Near Reading in the UK but that wasn't where the dealer was! Anyhoo I'm guessing most dealers will let you do that which is perhaps good reason to avoid their demo vehicles or not depending on how you feel about running them in ;)

TX.
 
Modern oils and filtration are superb, but you can always go for an oil and filter change at 1000 if you want piece of mind.
 
Warm it up before thrashing.

Car has warranty = if it goes wrong, it goes back.
 
Modern oils and filtration are superb, but you can always go for an oil and filter change at 1000 if you want piece of mind.

in all honesty not massively worried about that to be honest id be changing oils regularly anyway as im a bit anal with my cars. thanks for your help everyone
 
Warm it up before thrashing.

Car has warranty = if it goes wrong, it goes back.


like your attitude. warm up before achieving maximum fun levels always! lol
 
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Doesn't do any harm to keep revs down for first 1,000 miles (especially if you're keeping it beyond warranty). Once you've endured that, red line it once it's up to temp as you fancy!

Just beware - the first 2 gears require rather rapid changes to avoid hitting the limiter :D
 
Doesn't do any harm to keep revs down for first 1,000 miles (especially if you're keeping it beyond warranty). Once you've endured that, red line it once it's up to temp as you fancy!

Just beware - the first 2 gears require rather rapid changes to avoid hitting the limiter :D


looking forward to it time cant pass quick enough im so impatient
 
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

"What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??

The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

Why ??


Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??


From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.


The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...


The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again."
 
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