Resetting Throttle Body

Geeman

Geeman

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Am I right in thinking, if I need to reset my TB, this is the process to follow?


- Disconnect both terminals on the battery

- Touch both the disconnected leads together for a few seconds

- Reconnect the battery

- Turn the key to the 'on' position .... no throttle ... no start ... for about a minute or two

If the TB reset works, I should here the servo step through the settings, right...?
 
I dont think you even need to take the battery off.

Just pop the ignition on and wait, after a few seconds you'll hear it doing its thing.
 
audi upgrades
I needed to disconnect the battery. I've done the 'ignition on' thing and it did nothing.

So, you'll be glad to know, it's reset itself and now my A4 no longer wants to stall when coming to a stop! Yay! I've only lived with it liek that for 5 months! Aaaaargh!

Just got to reset clock and windows now...
 
fair enough.

I know on ours (which is a cable throttle car) it does it, and craigs S4 makes the strangest whining from the TB if you turn the ignition on and leave it, so i guessed it does it too.
 
Thats spot on. Mines been stalling since I've had her. Only once in a blue moon now but still dies now and again. Never heard of this methid for resetting the TB. Replacing my battery on Saturday so will give this a shot! Cheers Geeman!
 
****... it's still doing it this morning.

It's not the TB then. Must try and find out what it is...
 
Ours was acting the goat recently.

On startup the revs would bounce between 1500 and 500rpm and would eventually settle, but any time you were coming up to a junction etc the revs would dip down really low until you stopped, then they'd come back up. Never actually stalled mind.

Wasnt any fault codes, but mark mentioned the tank vent valve, and i happened to have a spare, so swapped it over, and that cured it.

Do you get a hiss when opening the fuel cap?
 
No hiss that I can remember on filling up...

Where would the tank vent valve to be found...?

I know that there's a strong smell of petrol and it's running rich... so could be something to do with that. Still don't know why it's running rich though... any ideas on that?

The whole thing started when I rebuilt the drivers side engine bay following my little fire... :tocktock:
 
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TVV is on top of the airbox, looks like an old skool fuel filter, but its black and has an electrical connection.

Ours didnt hiss either, but changing the valve cured it.

Smell of fuel isnt right, you need to track that down, is it actually burning rich? if so you should have a fault code for "Adaption Limit reached - Mixture Rich" Meaning that somethings caused it to become rich and the management hasnt been able to cure it. If its burning rich and theres no fault code, that suggests a failed lambda sensor. If its fuel vapour, rather than exhaust fumes, then check the TVV area for split hoses etc.
 
Aaaaah right. I know what you're on about now.

It's about £60 from the dealer or something like that... I asked about that before. It's called the N60 valve or something... right?

I had to replace the pipework down to the filter that's located behind the inner arch cover as some of it had melted in the fire. I didn't replace that valve though. Poo.
 
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This part... 058133517 - solenoid valve - 57 euros - is that the one?
 
N80 giles.

Try slackening the fuel cap half a turn and see if it still does it.

From memory that sounds right
 
I knew it was N-something-ty...!

Will loosen cap off at lunchtime and go for a spin...

I've also found that this part is on VR6's, Passats, etc... so I've scoured the breakers on Edition to see if anyone can supply me with one.
 
Its on every VAG car evar pretty much.

Mines got one from the V8 on it now, slightly different part number, but it looks the same and fixed the problem so i'm happy.
 
Cap loosened... short spin just now revealed no tendency to stall any more. Will see how the journey home fairs.

If it's still okay this evening, at least I've (we've) narrowed it down to that valve.

Cheers chaps!
 
Will have to replace that on mine too. See if it solves it. If it does then your (all the above) going to heaven and shall be greeted by 70+ virgins.....
 
aragorn said:
TVV is on top of the airbox, looks like an old skool fuel filter, but its black and has an electrical connection.

Ours didnt hiss either, but changing the valve cured it.

Smell of fuel isnt right, you need to track that down, is it actually burning rich? if so you should have a fault code for "Adaption Limit reached - Mixture Rich" Meaning that somethings caused it to become rich and the management hasnt been able to cure it. If its burning rich and theres no fault code, that suggests a failed lambda sensor. If its fuel vapour, rather than exhaust fumes, then check the TVV area for split hoses etc.
Click to expand...

hmm, I noticed when I got my car back the 90 hose was disconnected from this valve and check valve.
I hooked it back up and since then I've had the car randomly turn off/stall...
Could it be related??



For TB reset, I use the VAGCOM method:
Just open up engine diagnostics, measure blocks, group 098.
Click go, then switch to basic settings and you will hear it do an adaption run.

Make sure the key is switched to ON, do not touch the accelerator + TB during the process.
 
In referrence to the original topic, is there any benefits on reseting the TB other than fault cure? I dont have any problems with stalling etc, just curious really.
 
Mine's still playing up... even with a replacement (scrap donation!) N80 valve.

So, I've just pulled the electrical connectors from it, and it seems to be much better now (on the way to work this morning). The trip out this lunchtime (back to the scrap yard) will tell me if it's okay or not. Not the most ideal situation though, but at least I'll know what's causing the problem then!
 
If you just leave it disconnected, you'll be creating a vacuum inside the fuel tank, so if your going to leave it like that then remove the pipe going to the evap canister.

I would suggest though that the fact unplugging it fixes the problem you are onto the right track.
 
So, if it runs okay with it disconnected, then it would point towards the N80 valve being at fault?

It's likely that this replacement is also faulty as it came from an older A6 V6...
 
Hmmm... still not cured it.

Turning my attention towards the Lambda sensor now.
 
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