I recently did the PFL to FL dynamic taillights conversion with self made wiring loom, someone was asking me the details so I figured I'll just make a post for it. First of all, here's the pinouts for the FL dynamic taillights (This is same for SB/Sedan) Outer Lamp (Same for left and right side) Pin 1 - Ground Pin 2 - Tail lamp Pin 3 - Brake lamp Pin 4 - Turn signal lamp Pin 5 - Dynamic control - This is the wire that needs to tap to live power Pin 6 - Tail lamp 2 (connected to inner lamp's running lamp) Inner Lamp (Same for left and right side) Pin 1 - Ground Pin 2 - Tail lamp Pin 3 - Turn signal lamp Pin 4 - Fog lamp Pin 5 - Reverse lamp Pin 6 - Dynamic control - This is the wire that needs to tap to live power On the PFL, there's only 5 wires each for the inner and outer lamps, but on the FL dynamic, there's 6 wires each, the additional wire (in red above) is the power for the dynamic module inside the tail lamp, without this wire, everything will still functions normally, just without the dynamic sweeping function. The FL dynamic taillights has different housing for SB and Sedan, but the connectors and pinouts are identical. On the PFL taillights, SB and Sedan shares the same OUTER lamp connector, but the INNER lamp connectors are different, SB has 8 pins connector while Sedan uses 5 pins connector. And here's the wiring diagram for PFL SB: And here's the wiring diagram for PFL Sedan: Outer Lamps: The connector for both SB/Sedan's OUTER lamp needed is this (Part number 4H0 973 713 C): (** Some PFL SB came standard with this connector for the outer taillight already, so check first) The outer lamp for both SB and Sedan is pretty straight forward, all you need to do is re-pin the wires to this connector using the PFL to FL pinouts above. You can remove the wires by unlocking the purple lock tab inside the connector by sliding it out to the open slot using a screwdriver, and the best way to loosen up the pin locks are by using Molex pin extractor OR two iPhone SIM card removal pins, works like a charm The wires all have waterproof plugs, for the additional control wire, you can order some waterproof plugs or just poke a hole to the empty pin that's plugged with a closed plug. The toughest part here is running the additional control wire through the rubber grommet into the trunk. I tied a metal wire to the pin wire and just poked a hole on the grommet from the inside by removing the side linings. Inner Lamps: Here's where the original PFL connectors are different for SB and Sedan, but both need this connector to connect to the FL taillight connector (Part number 4B0 971 636): For Sedan, this is the 5 pins male connector I also ordered since I didn't want to cut any wire (Part number 5G0 972 715) and the wiring loom I made using these connectors for my Sedan: The extra yellow wire on my wiring loom is the inner lamp's control wire. For Sportback, I do NOT have the male connector's part number, but this is what the PFL 8 pins looks like, you can check it's part number and should easily find it's counterpart online: Once you have the wiring loom made according to the pinouts above and connected them up, run the control wire to the left side of the trunk (Coz the fuse box is on the left side), connect all four control wires into one and run it to the fuse box in the glove compartment, I used fuse F38 for constant power like this (borrowed from Blackvue install thread ) And that's it! Enjoy your new dynamic taillights The taillight cost about £600 from my supplier, the connectors etc another £50 or so, but my original taillight were sold for £300 so this whole project cost me about £350 *** Depends on how anal you are, you don't really have to use any connectors at all, you can opt to just remove the pins from the original connector and isolate them with heat shrink then plug them directly into the FL taillights and seal it with hotmelt or something, like these guys... **** Also the FL taillights' plastic trims are different, you can still use the PFL ones but it's not a perfect fit, I ordered FL ones for my Sedan since they're only like $30 total or so, here're the part numbers for Sedan: 8V5 945 253 B 8V5 945 254 B 8V5 945 255 B 8V5 945 256 B ***** I wrote this quick and based on the assumption that the person chose to do this have the basic knowledge of reading the pinouts and tearing down the car, I would not be held responsible for any damage done following this guide, proceed at your own risk, but of course, I'll be happy to answer any questions if there's any And here's the result:
A great write up. However, forgive me, but I am not a fan of the so called dynamic indicators. Just don't see the point myself.
Hello Do the central electric unit BCM need to be coded with VagCom? My car central electrical unit is part number 5Q0937084CL.
No coding needed at all, the dynamic module is built-in on the FL taillights and all you need is tapping the control wire to the fuse box or where ever you can find constant or ignition power. With ignition power though, there will be no sweeping motion when the car is not running.
Hello there. I want to change my stop lamps. I have all the pieces. But the electrical knowledge is minimal. How do I connect the pins of the internal taillights to the new socket? Are you able to match the pins? And do I have to connect the yellow wires to the fuse box? Is there a cable in the luggage compartment that can be connected?
Sorry for the late reply, must have missed it while I was in the States... Check the "inner lamp" section of my post, you'll need to either order the correct connector 4B0 971 636 etc and make an adapter loom like in my post or unpin the existing pins, and wrap them with heatshrink tubings and plug them directly into the new taillamp socket and secure them with hot melts. And the only cable available in the luggage compartment would be the 12V socket if you have it, but then, it won't have sweeping function unless the engine is running if you hook it up there since it's ACC power.
You're a saint. After wrestling with the stupid adapters to figure out how to fit them into almost no extra space, I was then faced with making the outboard tail lamp trims from the PFL fit on the FL units. I thought I was going mad... glad to have confirmation that the part numbers differ. I'll have to order those and put them in. I'm also considering pulling the adapters and adding the additional wires. The adapters are finicky. So, thanks in advance for your work there as well.
I can get a set of facelift dynamic tail lights for £350. Other than the harness adapters. Is anything else needed such as coding is it plug and play?
Hey, @larbel... would you happen to have the part number for the repair wire you used? I'd like to order everything from an online supplier at one time rather than having to go into the parts counter for the wire. Thanks!
I didn't use repair wire as they're way too short and will need lots of them for the project. My supplier can order the wires by rolls so I ordered like 3 different colors in rolls...
Thanks. After I posted that, I found a DIY on the Golf side of the world; it provides details on the crimp-on terminals to use with bulk wire. It seems the tail lamp wires are 20AWG? I thought I could cheat and tap the 12V outlet in the trunk after offsetting the fuse to set the 12Vs to always hot rather than having to run to the front, but the US S3 apparently doesn't get a trunk 12V outlet. Bogus!
hello everyone, I'm about to start this project on my S3, but I still have a few questions What would happen if the dynamic control was not connected at all ?? it seams that the blinkers are working fine anyway (but without the dynamic motion, what we want, obviously). The project seams easy except the "running wire to the trunk" thing. I've checked my car and have a 12v in the trunk I could use, I think this will be the easiest way to go...: I also still need to find the adapter for the Sportback inner lamp...any reference ?? : Thanks for your suggestions and congrats for your researches !!
I'm also trying to understand why the adapter sets that cost about 350€ like these : doesn't need to more wires (they are plug and play), do they have some kind of battery inside ?? just curious about that...
The wire is just for powering the dynamic control, without it, everything fine just no sweeping light as you said. The 12V in the trunk is ignition power not permanent power, if you hook it up there than no sweeping lights when the engine isn't running.
These are just taking power from the other wires and splitting it to power the dynamic control, IMO, they're just extremely pricy for what it is when you can just run a wire to the fuse box for the same thing.
I did my conversion using this guide but I used the 12v supply in the boot rather than using the fusebox. However I offset my fuse to make this a permanent live beforehand, so I still have sweeping lights without ignition, it works a treat and saved a significant amount of time during installation.
I would love to upgrade but the price of the Lights ranging from £850 to £1200 .Its definitely off for good>No doubt a Chinese company will make copies (maybe they are already) for a much competitive price but for now I will do with my s-line led's.But I will not do the retro fit on the existing .it looks like theres something faulty with the rear lights.
Now that you get "dynamic" indicators on trucks and lots of other makes it is time for Audi to move on!
£850 to £1200??? Just happened I’m doing a group buy for brand new Audi OEM set for £450 shipped lol But for Sedan only!
That's really good.. Pairs I'm finding are about £1,000 or more total. Extra £200 or so if you want adapters so you don't have to wire them yourself
For all those non technical upgraders you could try looking at these pre made leads on eBay. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-Sp...rentrq:671c005e1650aa48960c7ee1fffd29cf|iid:1
And the taillights for sedan available here lol https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-8V-...-lights-Taillights-Brand-New-OEM/323396031067
Interesting, these can't be genuine from Audi but using Audi plug heads. Also you can see there is a cable that needs connecting to possibly get additional power. But it also doesn't make it clear if these are to be used from PFL LED to FL true dynamic rear clusters. EDIT. Its not clear if its A3 8v or A3 8P related.
The adaptors above are just £70 ,how on earth can K electronic justify £313 for their adaptors if they do the same job.I have elected to go for semi dynamic looms and quiet happy with them albeit they are not as good looking as the FL type but its down to money at the end of the day.
Most likely. "Audi A3 Sportback Facelift Tail Lights Cables Adapters. A set of cables with resistors and original Audi connectors for retrofitting of original Audi A3 Sportback facelift tail lights. Genuine Product directly form Audi Germany."
Are you sure? From the picture, the connector isn't the FL connectors and it only has 4 wires compare to 6 for FL, and no way in hell that's "Genuine Product directly from Audi Germany" just look at the sloppy job at wire wrapping, and why would Audi made a PFL to FL adapter? Unless that's not the cable they're selling pictured...
Yes it is but for those who don’t have the skill to wire & code them then these are a very good and easy option.
PFL Sportback to FL Dynamic light plug pin wiring I would just like to point out that there are several posts on the net stating you will need to purchase semi dynamic modules from places like K Electronics to complete the job, this is not the case there is no coding necessary either! Parts Needed to complete the upgrade. New set of 2017 dynamic lights Inner plugs x 2 Repair cables x 6 Single core cable x 10m Inline fuse x 1 As with any project, please test each function of every wire before soldering/fitting to plugs as some models may differ, I will not be held responsible for any mishaps/damage to fittings fixtures. Outer Lamp Left Pin 1 – Ground Brown Pin 2 - Tail lamp Blue/White and Brown/Red connected together Pin 3 - Brake lamp Blue Pin 4 - Turn signal lamp Blue/Yellow Pin 5 - live power Needed to make dynamic indicator work Pin 6 – Not used Inner Lamp Left Pin 1 – Ground Brown Pin 2 - Tail lamp Brown/Red Pin 3 - Turn signal lamp Grey Pin 4 - Fog lamp Red/White Pin 5 - Reverse lamp Black/Blue Pin 6 - live power Needed to make dynamic indicator work Outer Lamp Right Pin 1 – Ground Brown Pin 2 - Tail lamp Red/Green and Brown/Yellow connected together Pin 3 - Brake lamp Green/Brown Pin 4 - Turn signal lamp Mauve Pin 5 - live power Needed to make dynamic indicator work Pin 6 – Not used Inner Lamp Right Pin 1 – Ground Brown Pin 2 - Tail lamp Brown/Yellow Pin 3 - Turn signal lamp Brown/Red Pin 4 - Fog lamp Green/Yellow Pin 5 - Reverse lamp Green/Red Pin 6 - live power Needed to make dynamic indicator work Outer Lamps The original outer lamp plug will fit on the new lamp socket but will need a small locating pin removing first from the new socket first, I used a dremmel but a stanley knife would suffice, and would then need repining as per the above chart. Inner Lamps The inner lamps will need the original plugs removing and new connectors fitting (part number 4B0 971 636), I would recommend using repair wires as the pins are very small and fiddley, sorry not sure on the part number, but when I purchased the plugs I asked for the repair leads to fit at the same time. You will need three for each side, these will need soldering in place as per the chart above. Installation is the same as written in larbel’s sedan post, I didn’t take any pictures for the conversion as I wasn’t going to write a guide, but then thought afterwards that I should share my findings
These adapters will make your original rear lights semi dynamic and are not needed if you change your lights to the 2017 dynamic lights, absolute waste of money better off doing the upgrade!
