Hybrid tte 420

Audadi s3 8p

Registered User
Hey all

I'm looking at upgrading my turbo to a hybrid tte 420 as I've heard you can upgrade with out forging the engine

I'll also be purchasing a lpfp, front mount intercooler, bigger injectors and a 165 bar fuel pressure relief valve

The car already has full exhaust, hpfp, and rdf kit

Would there be any other mods I'd need before getting stage 3 software and tuning the car ?






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Dan-Jnr

Registered User
Hey all

I'm looking at upgrading my turbo to a hybrid tte 420 as I've heard you can upgrade with out forging the engine

I'll also be purchasing a lpfp, front mount intercooler, bigger injectors and a 165 bar fuel pressure relief valve

The car already has full exhaust, hpfp, and rdf kit

Would there be any other mods I'd need before getting stage 3 software and tuning the car ?






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Read my thread I've gone down that route, and you will need to forge it. All explained in my build thread, should be linked in my signature.

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Audadi s3 8p

Registered User
Read my thread I've gone down that route, and you will need to forge it. All explained in my build thread, should be linked in my signature.

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Sorry only new to this how do I find your build post ?



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Dan-Jnr

Registered User
I didn't think you needed to forge. Plenty of people run that turbo

Plenty don't tell you when they break piston and get a £3-4k engine rebuild bill.
Part and part of the modifying game when your pushing stock engines with extra 150+ horses.
You can have them mapped down to extend the life of the engine but what's the point going hybrid or big turbo if you tone down the map.
These breakages are happening on stage 2+ too, the engines are getting fatigued some being over 10 years old now.
 
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Audadi s3 8p

Registered User
Plenty don't tell you when they break piston and get a £3-4k engine rebuild bill. Part of the modifying game when your pushing stock engines with extra 150+ horses.
You can have them mapped down to extend the life of the engine but what's the point going hybrid or big turbo if you tone down the map.
These breakages are happening on stage 2+ too, the engines are getting fatigued some being over 10 years old now.

What are you looking at replacing in the build just pistons and rods ?


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Dan-Jnr

Registered User
What are you looking at replacing in the build just pistons and rods ?


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When I did mine I went for forged pistons, forged rods, upgraded bearings, upgraded bolts, upgraded valve springs, and head cleaned and machined.

The power, the torque, and the smile on my face is all worth it.
 

Audadi s3 8p

Registered User
When I did mine I went for forged pistons, forged rods, upgraded bearings, upgraded bolts, upgraded valve springs, and head cleaned and machined.

The power, the torque, and the smile on my face is all worth it.

What did it cost you to do that ?



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Dan-Jnr

Registered User
Broke a piston landing, its all in my thread I linked earlier.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User

prt57

Registered User
Sometimes a broken piston landing can be due to a faulty injector causing a weak mixture and things get too hot.
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+

Have you got the Organic or Sintered Plate? As the Organic plate which is what most go for is only rated to 392ft-lbs which is why I went for the Spec 2+ instead as that's rated to 450ft-lbs (plus it can take more aggressive starts as well) and I know stage 2+ can see 400ft-lbs+. Glad I went with the Spec as R-Tech got 415ft-lbs at stage 2+ out of mine so the Organic would not have lasted long at all which is what's happened to a few on here.
 

prt57

Registered User
Have you got the Organic or Sintered Plate? As the Organic plate which is what most go for is only rated to 392ft-lbs which is why I went for the Spec 2+ instead as that's rated to 450ft-lbs (plus it can take more aggressive starts as well) and I know stage 2+ can see 400ft-lbs+. Glad I went with the Spec as R-Tech got 415ft-lbs at stage 2+ out of mine so the Organic would not have lasted long at all which is what's happened to a few on here.

Hi Harry,
How is the drive ability with the spec 2+ clutch? What is it like in traffic and have you had any of the problems experienced by others with 4th gear at high revs? Do you get any judder?
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
Hi Harry,
How is the drive ability with the spec 2+ clutch? What is it like in traffic and have you had any of the problems experienced by others with 4th gear at high revs? Do you get any judder?

Hi Peter,

The Spec 2+ Clutch & Steel SMF have been in for 2000 miles and now that it has all bedded and set in properly, there is no issue with drive-ability. The only problem I currently have is that I did not get a braided clutch line fitted and so there's the odd time having difficulty getting it out of 1st at low RPM and also when it's really cold then the pedal does not return 100% on its own until warmed up, however I'll be ordering the kit from AKS soon which will resolve these issues.

In terms of high RPM gear changes then so far I do not have any issues, I've only seen just the one complaint on here regarding the Spec 2+ setup which is the one you've mentioned with getting it into 4th and I'm not suffering from this myself of which I've done plenty of 7K+ RPM gear changes. I know the Sachs & LOBA SMF is a lot more susceptible to the high RPM gear change issue than the Spec.

I had the 42 Draft Designs Shifter Bracket Bushings Kit, 42 Draft Designs Shifter Bushing Kit, Sliding Shoe (6Q0 711 550), Bracket (5K0 711 203 B) and Nut (N 907 611 02) done at the same time, whilst also having the Powerflex Lower Engine Mount Large Bush Insert done before.

Up until around 1500 miles then I used to get slight judder in 1st and a fair amount in reverse both at low RPM which did my head in but thankfully these finally subsided which I'm grateful for. The biting point was really low and pedal was fairly heavy at first but after 150 miles these both sorted out as well and feel very similar to stock which was a relief.

Once I've had the braided clutch line fitted and done some more driving then I'll write up a final review. The chatter at idle/low RPM is disgusting haha but the 2L TFSI lump sounded like a horrible diesel to start with anyway so no love lost there. I'd much rather that with a clutch & SMF rated to 450ft-lbs which can take aggressive starts (I rarely do these though tbh) than the potential of a slipping DMF that a fair amount have found.

Cheers.
 

prt57

Registered User
Hi Peter,

The Spec 2+ Clutch & Steel SMF have been in for 2000 miles and now that it has all bedded and set in properly, there is no issue with drive-ability. The only problem I currently have is that I did not get a braided clutch line fitted and so there's the odd time having difficulty getting it out of 1st at low RPM and also when it's really cold then the pedal does not return 100% on its own until warmed up, however I'll be ordering the kit from AKS soon which will resolve these issues.

In terms of high RPM gear changes then so far I do not have any issues, I've only seen just the one complaint on here regarding the Spec 2+ setup which is the one you've mentioned with getting it into 4th and I'm not suffering from this myself of which I've done plenty of 7K+ RPM gear changes. I know the Sachs & LOBA SMF is a lot more susceptible to the high RPM gear change issue than the Spec.

I had the 42 Draft Designs Shifter Bracket Bushings Kit, 42 Draft Designs Shifter Bushing Kit, Sliding Shoe (6Q0 711 550), Bracket (5K0 711 203 B) and Nut (N 907 611 02) done at the same time, whilst also having the Powerflex Lower Engine Mount Large Bush Insert done before.

Up until around 1500 miles then I used to get slight judder in 1st and a fair amount in reverse both at low RPM which did my head in but thankfully these finally subsided which I'm grateful for. The biting point was really low and pedal was fairly heavy at first but after 150 miles these both sorted out as well and feel very similar to stock which was a relief.

Once I've had the braided clutch line fitted and done some more driving then I'll write up a final review. The chatter at idle/low RPM is disgusting haha but the 2L TFSI lump sounded like a horrible diesel to start with anyway so no love lost there. I'd much rather that with a clutch & SMF rated to 450ft-lbs which can take aggressive starts (I rarely do these though tbh) than the potential of a slipping DMF that a fair amount have found.

Cheers.

From what I can glean, most of the people with slipping clutches at stage 2+ have been Sachs. Not so much with Helix.
Certainly the Sachs pedal feel is less resistant than the Helix which could indicate the Sachs clamping force is less. This is from my experience having a faulty Helix pressure plate replaced with a Sachs on my son’s TTS.
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
From what I can glean, most of the people with slipping clutches at stage 2+ have been Sachs. Not so much with Helix.
Certainly the Sachs pedal feel is less resistant than the Helix which could indicate the Sachs clamping force is less. This is from my experience having a faulty Helix pressure plate replaced with a Sachs on my son’s TTS.

I was speaking to Niki when I was at R-Tech and he recommended the Helix if going down the DMF route rather than the Sachs which does appear to be the inadequate setup for stage 2+ nowadays.
 
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