DIY: A3 8P reverse mirror dip mod

[lukeexecute]

I am really struggling to find either the motor or the whole mirror.
eBay sellers are not willing to take off the glass to see if the motor is the required one.
George Kost do you still have the rest of the used mirror you bought?
How many wires this mirror had? Does it have any other part number on it that will help me find a used one?
Usually underneath it has a number like E1…

I have received the 8pin from AliExpress, I have the door module, but I can’t find the motor…

 

[George Kost]

I bought something like this.
The mirror glass was not there so it was easy to check the markings on the motor.
You can see from the photo also, that has the green 8pin connector. That is what you are looking for.
Search eBay for similar adds.

I don’t know where you are located so if you need the left or the right side.

You need:
left side motor MCi part number 98561 (top) and letters AE (bottom) if your car is RHD.
Or:
right side motor MCi part number 98562 (top) and letters AC (bottom) if your car is LHD.

 

[lukeexecute]

I bought something like this.
The mirror glass was not there so it was easy to check the markings on the motor.
You can see from the photo also, that has the green 8pin connector. That is what you are looking for.
Search eBay for similar adds.

I don’t know where you are located so if you need the left or the right side.

You need:
left side motor MCi part number 98561 (top) and letters AE (bottom) if your car is RHD.
Or:
right side motor MCi part number 98562 (top) and letters AC (bottom) if your car is LHD.

Thank you. This might help.
I leave in Athens-Greece like you judging by your name.

 

[George Kost]

Γεια! Yeah I am in Athens as well.
So you need the right side motor.
So you need the right side from A4 8B.
Or If I am not mistaken, the left side of A3 8V. (Same Motor).

With 98562 number and letters AC.

 

[George Kost]

This has the AC marking. You can check with the seller if it also has the 98562 number on it.
Link

 

[lukeexecute]

This has the AC marking. You can check with the seller if it also has the 98562 number on it.
Link

Thank you very much George.
I already sent a message.
Let's hope that it is the correct motor.

 

[lukeexecute]

Thank you very much George.
I already sent a message.
Let's hope that it is the correct motor.

It is 98562 and I ordered the motor.

What about the cables I will need?
From the wiring manuals (if I am correct) it seems that I will need 0,35mm2 and 0,5mm2, which is 20 and 22AWG respectively.

Are they special cables for cars or usual cables?

 

[George Kost]

0,35mm2 is too slim to work with.
I used 0,5mm2 cables.

I bought 3x50m cable from Conrad based in Germany.
Automotive wire FLRY-A 1 x 0.50 mm². Link
I needed 150m for the PDC+PLA retrofit and from the cable left, I did the mirror dip mod.
You will also need a crimping tool like this and some terminals like this.

The existing mirror cable has 3 cables, and you need 4 more. I made a new loom with 7 cables and left the old 3 there just in case or as spare.
As an alternative you can use the ready crimped repair cables that the dealership sells but I am not sure about the length.

If you buy new cable, you can borrow my crimping tool since you are in Athens as well. No problem there.

 

[lukeexecute]

0,35mm2 is too slim to work with.
I used 0,5mm2 cables.

I bought 3x50m cable from Conrad based in Germany.
Automotive wire FLRY-A 1 x 0.50 mm². Link
I needed 150m for the PDC+PLA retrofit and from the cable left, I did the mirror dip mod.
You will also need a crimping tool like this and some terminals like this.

The existing mirror cable has 3 cables, and you need 4 more. I made a new loom with 7 cables and left the old 3 there just in case or as spare.
As an alternative you can use the ready crimped repair cables that the dealership sells but I am not sure about the length.

If you buy new cable, you can borrow my crimping tool since you are in Athens as well. No problem there.

I didn't expect that the cables would be that special.
I thought I could find them to the local market.
I asked a car electrician and told that they buy it from local market (KAYKAS). Weird but possible..

I will do my research. I have a crimping tool.
Thank you for helping me!

 

[MT-V6]

In general search for "automotive thinwall" cable. Lots of colours and thicknesses on eBay, at least in the UK anyway. The thinwall part is important as normal wire insulation can be too thick for the smaller sized connectors

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[George Kost]

Hello George. I will finally need the crimping tool while mine is not the right one as I thought.
As I cannot send you a PM, please send me your phone number to my email loukas.nikolaidis@gmail.com

I will delete this post afterwards if I can do that while it is off topic. Sorry.

Sent

 

[lukeexecute]

While I gathered all the parts required for the mirror dip on reverse, I had no success for the moment.

First of all, I have an Audi TT 8J 2008 LHD.

I bought a mirror motor from eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/154476111573) that supposed to be:
1) the wrong part number 8T0959577A -> According to info I need 8T0959578A
2) but the markings are correct: "AC" and "98562"
But while the part number is not on the motor itself, could be that the seller had the wrong part number. So I risk it and bought it.

Another issue is with the connector of the motor:
Looking closely at the pin markings on the cup of the mirror motor from above the pins are: 7 5 3 1

But if you see on the connector the pins are the opposite 1 3 5 7

So, I trusted the PIN numbers on the cup of the motor to do the connections.

I have done a lot of testing, trial and error.
Current Connections are:
Mirror end - Door control module
1 – 3 (vertical adjustment potentiometer)
2 – 4 (mirror adjustment motor +12v)
3 – 9 (vertical adjustment potentiometer)
4 – not used
5 – 2 (horizontal adjustment potentiometer)
6 – 5 (mirror ground)
7 – 1 (horizontal adjustment potentiometer)
8 – 12 (mirror adjustment motor +12v

Current status is:
1) Dip Mirror works
2) Control via mirror knob is incorrect (Up=Left / Down=Right / Left=Down / Right=Up)
If the motor was fitted turned 90o Clockwise (like it will be fitted in the driver's side) then the control would be correct.

As you know the mirror has 7 cables:
1) (+)
2) (-)
3) (GROUND)
4) Vertical Movement 1
5) Vertical Movement 2
6) Horizontal Movement 1
7) Horizontal Movement 2

Whatever change I tried to do to cables 4-7 (Vertical and Horizontal), always the mirror controls were the same (Up=Left / Down=Right / Left=Down / Right=Up). Nothing Changed.

When I change (alternate) 1 and 2 (+ and -), then:
1) Mirror Dip does not work
2) Mirror Control Left and Right are correct, but Up and Down is incorrect (is reversed). Again, whatever change I tried to do to cables 4-7 (Vertical and Horizontal), always the mirror controls were the same.

So for the moment, I have left it with the initial setup.

Any ideas?

 

[George Kost]

After 15 of August that I will be back in Athens, we can try your motor to my A3 to check if the motor is OK so you can rule out some concerns.
The mirror dip when it worked, did it go to the position that you set? Or you just saw the motor moving randomly?
When I had the wrong motor (which we can also try to your car,) the controls were wrong, and the mirror dip was moving in wrong direction as well.

 

[George Kost]

Also the orientation of the motor is the same as the A3? The connector is on the bottom left as the arrow?

 

[George Kost]

Also check this wiring diagram from Elsa.
The mirror movement is done by 3 wires. One is common, and one for each axis. As on the original mirror.
On each axis, if you supply +12v the mirror moves one way, if you supply -12v the mirror moves the other way.

The rest 4 wires are for the 2 potentiometer that "read" the position of the mirror.
2 are 12v and ground, and the rest 2 are the signal that the door module reads.

On the A3 for example,
pin5 is the common one,
pin4 is for V150
pin 12 is for V25

On the TT schematic,
pin5 is the common one,
pin4 is for V25
pin 12 is for V150

So for sure you can try to switch places to pins 4 and 12 and try. Nothing to loose.

 

[lukeexecute]

Also check this wiring diagram from Elsa.
The mirror movement is done by 3 wires. One is common, and one for each axis. As on the original mirror.
On each axis, if you supply +12v the mirror moves one way, if you supply -12v the mirror moves the other way.

The rest 4 wires are for the 2 potentiometer that "read" the position of the mirror.
2 are 12v and ground, and the rest 2 are the signal that the door module reads.

On the A3 for example,
pin5 is the common one,
pin4 is for V150
pin 12 is for V25

On the TT schematic,
pin5 is the common one,
pin4 is for V25
pin 12 is for V150

So for sure you can try to switch places to pins 4 and 12 and try. Nothing to loose.

I have read in detail the schematics and indeed V25 and V150 are opposite pins. I have tried a lot of combinations with the pins but nothing worked totally correct.

Also the orientation of the motor is the same as the A3? The connector is on the bottom left as the arrow

That’s the main problem. The orientation is 90 degrees anti-clockwise.
If it was like in the picture then everything would work as it should.
I could maybe do that but I would have to cut a little metal from the metal base to fit.

After 15 of August that I will be back in Athens, we can try your motor to my A3 to check if the motor is OK so you can rule out some concerns.
The mirror dip when it worked, did it go to the position that you set? Or you just saw the motor moving randomly?
When I had the wrong motor (which we can also try to your car,) the controls were wrong, and the mirror dip was moving in wrong direction as well.

It is a good idea to do some testing.
The mirror dip works correctly. It goes to the saved position and returns to its initial position.
Thanks for helping.

 

[lukeexecute]

It finally seems that for an Audi TT LHD you have to use a RHD mirror motor with RHD wiring OR you have to make the LHD motor sit to its frame like the picture of George posted with the yellow arrow.

George do you have a spare left side motor MCi part number 98561 (top) and letters AE (bottom)?

 

[George Kost]

No I don’t have a genuine motor.
I had one from AliExpress which didn’t work for me. Wrong movement.
not sure if it will work correctly for you.

When I did the mod and had the wrong motor at first, I had the PCB altered a bit to see if it would work. I can reverse it to the original state so you can try.
We will talk after 15 of august.

 

[lukeexecute]

It finally seems that for an Audi TT LHD you have to use a RHD mirror motor with RHD wiring OR you have to make the LHD motor sit to its frame like the picture of George posted with the yellow arrow.

George do you have a spare left side motor MCi part number 98561 (top) and letters AE (bottom)?

I finally received the new motor which is from the drivers side mirror and everything worked out.
Thanks for your help.

 

[unilitePL]

I've done it in my prelift A3 8p

Wysłane z mojego SM-G988B przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

[George Kost]

I've done it in my prelift A3 8p View attachment 241961

Wysłane z mojego SM-G988B przy użyciu Tapatalka

What was needed for the pre-facelift?
Same mirror motor and door module as in facelift models?

 

[unilitePL]

I've bought mirrors from s3 8p 2012, door module 801M and 802M and mirror engine with memory.

Wysłane z mojego SM-G988B przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

[George Kost]

Why you did both door modules?
do both sides lower on reverse or just the passenger side?

 

[unilitePL]

because I have electric folding mirrors. Only the right mirror dip

Wysłane z mojego SM-G988B przy użyciu Tapatalka

 

[George Kost]

Perfect!

 

[GTz]

I've bought mirrors from s3 8p 2012, door module 801M and 802M and mirror engine with memory.

Wysłane z mojego SM-G988B przy użyciu Tapatalka

You can retrofit S3 mirrors on the A3? Also, does it matter if it’s facelift or not? Thanks

 

[DjDvr]

You can retrofit S3 mirrors on the A3? Also, does it matter if it’s facelift or not? Thanks

Yes you can. For FL on NFL you need FLM door controllers to have signal in the mirror , if you don't care about the signal you can use it as is. For FL door controllers you will need to redo wiring on the whole door.

 

[GTz]

Yes you can. For FL on NFL you need FLM door controllers to have signal in the mirror , if you don't care about the signal you can use it as is. For FL door controllers you will need to redo wiring on the whole door.

Thanks, would you say it’s a big and expensive job? I’m looking to get parts from a salvage, and the signals working as well.

 

[DjDvr]

Thanks, would you say it’s a big and expensive job? I’m looking to get parts from a salvage, and the signals working as well.

door controllers are 30 - 40 ... takes you ~ 2 hours to redo all the cables , you can use my cable writeup here: Mirror folding A3 NFL , left is FL pinout , right is NFL pinout.
Mirrors are easy to take off , remove door card , unglug cable and push in to the door , remove the plastic holding the cable inside the door with a trim tool , undoo the bolt on the mirror and after removing the plastic casing of the connector , slowly pull up wires with the mirror and then revers back