Car shaking whilst stationary

[Mohammad-997]

My car starts shaking whilst idle once the temperature reaches 90. Ive just had my cambelt and waterpump changed had my egr cleaned out glow plugs changed and my engine mounts changed. After having my cambelt changed ive noticed my car isnt as responsive as before and doesn’t accelerate as good also the shaking at stationary is still there.

 

[stbuk]

Could be engine mounts/gearbox mounts if the shaking was there before and after. If its now down on power after a cambelt change it suggest the belt is mis timed, Go back to the garage.

 

[Daveyonthemove]

It does sound like the belt is out by a tooth, i'd get the garage to check it and ensure the belt is timed correctly.

 

[Mohammad-997]

Could be engine mounts/gearbox mounts if the shaking was there before and after. If its now down on power after a cambelt change it suggest the belt is mis timed, Go back to the garage.

Yeah i get that but what about the shaking it was happening before the cambelt change too it happens when the car has warmed up but when i dip the clutch in it still happens so it cant be the dmf can it. Any chance of it being head gasket?

 

[Daveyonthemove]

Check for oil in coolant or coolant in the oil.
Easy to check for it, but if mechanical stuff isn't your thing then take it to a garage. They are trained and should be able to diagnose a problem quickly and reduce any long term damage you may be causing while you second guess everything.

 

[Mohammad-997]

Check for oil in coolant or coolant in the oil.
Easy to check for it, but if mechanical stuff isn't your thing then take it to a garage. They are trained and should be able to diagnose a problem quickly and reduce any long term damage you may be causing while you second guess everything.

Ive checked that theres no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.

 

[Daveyonthemove]

So you've ruled out the likely hood of a head gasket issue.

Are your filters all clean or new? Clogged air flow can cause issues, as can fuel flow. Have they been changed at all recently?
Are you using cheap/poor quality fuel?
Do you have access to a fault scanner or data logger, You could have a faulty injector.

Always start with the easiest and cheapest things you can do for yourself. Once you have ruled them out and can no longer work out what the problem is then it is time to get the experts to look at it.

 

[Mohammad-997]

So you've ruled out the likely hood of a head gasket issue.

Are your filters all clean or new? Clogged air flow can cause issues, as can fuel flow. Have they been changed at all recently?
Are you using cheap/poor quality fuel?
Do you have access to a fault scanner or data logger, You could have a faulty injector.

Always start with the easiest and cheapest things you can do for yourself. Once you have ruled them out and can no longer work out what the problem is then it is time to get the experts to look at it.

Yes all filters has been replaced and i use shell fuel. Ive used vcds and no fault codes came up however i have checked the torsion value which came up as -4.6 and the rpm is at 850 and the fuel consumption is 0.40

 

[xkieron99x]

If your engine mounts are okay, check the condition of your clutch and dual mass fly wheel, when my clutch was on the way out it was causing shaking. In addition check the condition of the subframe bushing as I know that can cause the feeling of something shaking even at idle

 

[CHEZ]

+1 on dual mass flywheel
When on its way out, it can feel like the car is getting hit by a strong sideways wind when idling

 

[Nessy]

Before you do anything else , get that torsion value checked again, -4.6 is a terribly large negative figure you have there!
Off the top of my head I can’t remember if the optimum is 0 or -0.5 but I’d not be surprised if it ran like a bag of nails with a torsion value of -4.6
I’d bet it gets a whole lot smoother once the torsion is adjusted, it’s a really easy thing to do when you know how to do it and have VCDS........

 

[Goner]

Had this issue on a 2.0L TDI 140 5 / 6 year ago..

Replaced them DMF, shaking stopped.

 

[aqibi2000]

You need to adjust the torsion value of the inlet camshaft to be as close to 0.00 as possible mine is. 0.35° (personally don't set it to 0.00 dead on as the default value where it has no reading is 0.00 too then you can't tell the difference when it's not working although sometimes triggers the camshaft error when in this state)
Your timing belt installer should have done this, adjust the exhaust cam slightly too.

This fixes idle judder and the smelly burning oil stink people have from their PD170 Engine to passenger compartment

 

[Goner]

One other thing you can try again (i did this with a previous 2.0L TDI A3) is have the revs raised at idle slightly, i found in my old car that it used to run rough but if feathered the accelerator i could get the shaking to stop so i managed to get somebody on here to raise the revs on idle slightly using VCDS.

From memory it idled at 850RPM and a chap called Mike Foster on here raised it to a little over 900RPM.

 

[Nessy]

You need to adjust the torsion value of the inlet camshaft to be as close to 0.00 as possible mine is. 0.35° (personally don't set it to 0.00 dead on as the default value where it has no reading is 0.00 too then you can't tell the difference when it's not working although sometimes triggers the camshaft error when in this state)
Your timing belt installer should have done this, adjust the exhaust cam slightly too.

This fixes idle judder and the smelly burning oil stink people have from their PD170 Engine to passenger compartment

Not wishing to de-rail this thread but out of curiosity how do you adjust the exhaust cam?
My idle is slightly lumpy and whilst altering the front (inlet) cam is easy enough as the differences in timing are easily visible in the torsion values in VCDS I’ve always left the exhaust cam alone out of fear.....
Is it the same procedure as the inlet cam?

 

[aqibi2000]

That's my issue too not particularly sure how you can measure exhaust cam adjustment. People tend to play with it until they get the best injector stabilisation values, and apparently the fuel consumption people use as a reference too by setting it to 0.6l/hr?

Hopefully someone can show us the full detail behind this

Either way it definitely makes all the difference

 

[Nessy]

That's my issue too not particularly sure how you can measure exhaust cam adjustment. People tend to play with it until they get the best injector stabilisation values, and apparently the fuel consumption people use as a reference too by setting it to 0.6l/hr?

Hopefully someone can show us the full detail behind this

Either way it definitely makes all the difference

I’ve done this , it’s the inlet is adjusted to give the values quoted .
The info on the exhaust cam is all a little sketchy, if it’s as simple as doing the inlet cam (i.e slacken 3 bolts and turn cam a tiny bit) then I’d like to try it...
Just not brave enough to do it unless someone can confirm that’s all you need to do, LOL....

 

[Nessy]

I was wrong in my last post , you're right, it is the exhaust cam adjusted to give 0.6l / hr .
There's a post from November 2015 which describes the exhaust timing .
Generally turn the cam clockwise to increase consumption and anti-clockwise to reduce .
Thing is , I'm sure my consumption is already at 0.6l and still lumpy idle.
Think will get my VCDS lead out soon though and double -check .
The rear (exhaust ) cam does seem to be adjusted exactly like the inlet cam so quite an easy job.

 

[aqibi2000]

I was wrong in my last post , you're right, it is the exhaust cam adjusted to give 0.6l / hr .
There's a post from November 2015 which describes the exhaust timing .
Generally turn the cam clockwise to increase consumption and anti-clockwise to reduce .
Thing is , I'm sure my consumption is already at 0.6l and still lumpy idle.
Think will get my VCDS lead out soon though and double -check .
The rear (exhaust ) cam does seem to be adjusted exactly like the inlet cam so quite an easy job.

I did mine this week and cured the horrid burning oil smell which was coming into the cabin. There are 2 ways to get the l/hr reading from what I recall, one way is looking at the idje consumption and the other is at 2000rpm

 

[Mohammad-997]

I did mine this week and cured the horrid burning oil smell which was coming into the cabin. There are 2 ways to get the l/hr reading from what I recall, one way is looking at the idje consumption and the other is at 2000rpm

I need mine adjusted its currently on -4.6 retarded is there anyone on here who can adjust it for me?

 

[bradh]

I was wrong in my last post , you're right, it is the exhaust cam adjusted to give 0.6l / hr .
There's a post from November 2015 which describes the exhaust timing .
Generally turn the cam clockwise to increase consumption and anti-clockwise to reduce .
Thing is , I'm sure my consumption is already at 0.6l and still lumpy idle.
Think will get my VCDS lead out soon though and double -check .
The rear (exhaust ) cam does seem to be adjusted exactly like the inlet cam so quite an easy job.

I did mine this week and cured the horrid burning oil smell which was coming into the cabin. There are 2 ways to get the l/hr reading from what I recall, one way is looking at the idje consumption and the other is at 2000rpm

Guys can you give me some info on witch block I need to monitor in vcds when adjusting the exhaust cam please, also just how much did you move the cam it’s self to get rid of the smell of oil?