Cannot rotate engine, hard lock / clunk at 80% rotation on crank.

Stuart B

Registered User
grrr - bin? I have the CHRA fitted and it rotates okay, but is it not long for this world?

I reckon this is caused by running 18-19psi boost without a 3inch downpipe, where the gas is entering the chamber must be so hot.

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Stuart B

Registered User
Moving on this weekend and next week - hopefully anyway...

Getting a new hotside, so build the mutant-turbo (you see what I have done there ;) ) and fit with the pipework.. <-- this will be interesting as I bought an entire cheap Chinese turbo just for the hotside so will sell on the actuator, compressor housing and CHRA afterwards to try and get back a couple of quid.

  • Getting Elring head gasket kit and bolts delivered <-- need to see if half moon is included - they are only a few quid with GSF60 or HALLOWEEN80 codes
  • New exhaust valves - cheap but expensive if you know what I mean..
  • New ARP Cam Pulley Bolt
The above will let me reconstruct the head

New Top Timing Cover <-- they are surprisingly difficult to fit in a TT compared to an S3 - hence why it is broken.

I need to get an after-run water pump and I think I will buy a coolant flange as mine was leaking from the temperature sender unit, and they are famous for leaking, and I bet the o ring is the same price as the full flange.

A question I do have is regarding the running in process if I have replaced rings and big end bearings? do I need to run in with cheap oil for a short period then cheap oil for a medium distance then good oil? including filter changes at the same time?
 

Stuart B

Registered User
looking for advice for quality studs and locking nuts for do I get nord-lock washers? I think I got some locking nuts when I worked on the S3

K04 to downpipe - 10mm aren't they

K04 to manifold through a Chinafold - they are quite long

Head to exhaust manifold - (the studs are good so I just need 8mm nuts)
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Cool thanks for the size I assume these are standard pitch?

Thanks for the nordlock offer, I will see what ones I still have, i bought loads but didn't pay the quid each they are for sale online. Did you buy special studs and nuts, I have read several threads over the years of these undoing.
 

Stuart B

Registered User
okay so how on earth someone can manufacture and deliver a turbo for £100 is just crazy - this was from "maxspeeding" redused from £166 , I have removed the hotside to go onto my old compressor housing, hybrid CHRA, 15psi actuator.
And now will need to port the wastegate penny as you can see in the photo's is this why they have a reputation for compressor surge?

got all my other parts delivered today too busy week ahead :)

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Stuart B

Registered User
Lol... and check out the turbo to manifold alignment.

It looks like the cnc template was made with the gasket on upside down and only located with two holes. The supplied gasket doesn't fit a stock K04 either, so I need to widen the hotside to meet the oem gasket.
Buyer's be aware...

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Stuart B

Registered User
So this is the porting for the fake k04 hotside and the start for the Chinafold to match the gasket and the stock manifold.

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Stuart B

Registered User
like I said if I flip over the gasket the top and right holes are aligned and so is the port and the wave is exactly aligned, so someone measured something incorrectly / upside down, when creating the program. Amazing some people would just fit it and it'll only have 70% open, plus a tiny wastegate. the OEM K04 is exactly 9.4 mm from bolt to port and this is 8.4, 8.6, 11.4. My old hotside would have probably been okay with the hair line fracture just not worth the risk.
 

superkarl

MAN OF STEEL
Ask bill what he ports his wastegates to.
I ported my Garrett to 2mm smaller than the penny valve


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Stuart B

Registered User
That's about stock from the looks of it, it actually opens up quite easily it's like a thin top layer, wasn't finished properly hence the errors shape.

Spending this evening getting the exhaust valves in, fingers crossed I won't lose any half collets done 4 of 8 so far :)


Can anyone explain these instructions / warning regarding the camshaft seals?

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Stuart B

Registered User
so this is what a winter evening project is all about a nice couple of hours fitting something whilst watching crazy ex-girlfriend, sabrina Spellman and x-factor :) I would not be relaxed if I had lost some bits - it's the more difficult ones tomorrow night ;)

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superkarl

MAN OF STEEL
That's about stock from the looks of it, it actually opens up quite easily it's like a thin top layer, wasn't finished properly hence the errors shape.

Spending this evening getting the exhaust valves in, fingers crossed I won't lose any half collets done 4 of 8 so far :)


Can anyone explain these instructions / warning regarding the camshaft seals?

View attachment 168706 View attachment 168707 View attachment 168708

Don’t try and push the plastic guide through the seal.
Clean the cam, put the guide on the cam, and slide the seal over the guide onto the cam. Don’t run the engine for 4hrs.
That’s how I read it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Can they be fitted on the camshaft before fitting on the head or do they need to be pressed on after fitting the cams?

I expect they were ruined already lol, there's probably a chemical which goes off when the centre is popped out.
 

superkarl

MAN OF STEEL
Can they be fitted on the camshaft before fitting on the head or do they need to be pressed on after fitting the cams?

I expect they were ruined already lol, there's probably a chemical which goes off when the centre is popped out.
Fit them onto the cam before fitting cams
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Thanks Karl... it makes it much easier doing that.

In other news I have ported the hot side now too match the gasket. It is done using aluminium oxide grinders, 6 for like about £3 I have ordered some carbide bits for the chinafold, I reckon that is made from stronger stuff.

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superkarl

MAN OF STEEL
Thanks Karl... it makes it much easier doing that.

In other news I have ported the hot side now too match the gasket. It is done using aluminium oxide grinders, 6 for like about £3 I have ordered some carbide bits for the chinafold, I reckon that is made from stronger stuff.

View attachment 168757

Nice work.

Don’t be afraid to go a bit deeper.
You can knife edge the wastegate port in there also


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Stuart B

Registered User
yay got the inlet valves in last night - I reckon it took a couple of hours with a couple of breaks for my aging back i'm sure it would be quicker on a proper bench and with spare collets in-case you drop one and some are a lot easy to do as some of those gaps are tiny. The easiest way is to put a bit of grease on the inside of the collet too then they sort of find the correct place on the grooves and you can push it around to the other side of the valve to put on the other half.

I should be able to get the cam pulleys sorted this evening. but I must do some gardening today - it's finally the garden fire season.

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Stuart B

Registered User
Question over torque for ARP cam pulley bolt? The Haynes manualstates 65NM /48lb_ft but I'm sure I have seen 55 lb_ft for the arp bolt which is more like 75nm?

Any thoughts or anywhere around there is fine?
 

IPG

Registered User
those collets!!!! urgh!!! hahahaha

Hope you've had fun there!

This part is definitely one of the more rewarding parts and gives you that light bulb moment in how it all works
 

Stuart B

Registered User
It's actually quite therapeutic and what you envisage as a winter project.

Had a great fire last night and freaked myself out this is the fire and me photoing myself, at the same time...

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Tonight is back to normal, kids coming over complaining about their relationships bahhhhh. Leave-me-alone
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Fitted turbo yesterday need to torque down the oil and water lines and connect up the other ends onto the block and sump along with the sports cat, and try to replace one of the back box exhaust mounts which has given way, I did get a replacement one but has the bolt holes in the wrong places, so I might get by just replacing the hanger.
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am waiting for my neighbour to help with the cam pulley bolt, but can maybe make a start of the teeth rattling chinafold port tomorrow afternoon.

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Stuart B

Registered User
I'm sure someone recently said their EGT sensor was loose in the hot side, well as tuffty pointed out fake k04s doubt have a good EGT fit. This is 3 crush washers. Lol... maybe I have no idea what the EGT accuracy is now either....

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Stuart B

Registered User
Spent about 40 minutes on a couple of the exhaust ports on ChinaFold today.

And instead of going round my neighbours after work for the cam pully, took the grand children to recycle the pumpkins in the woods. They weren't happy leaving them for the animals and doggers / passers by but meh...

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Stuart B

Registered User
Reasonable couple of hours this morning,

Fitted cat to downpipe and exhaust.
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Fitted new afterrun pump
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Fitted new flange and temperature sensor o-ring it used to leak.

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Will continue with the chinafold this afternoon.
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Head together... blimey... that's long.
10nm for caps (seems low but hey), 55lbft ARP Cam Pulley Bolt with red loctite (That is damn tight)
New half moon gasket and hopefully the cams are in the right place.

Roll on tomorrow... Maybe put it on if I'm done with the chinafold?

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Stuart B

Registered User
Not worrying about that for the moment I'm already at about April before the current plans are finished.
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Blimey, fitted the ported chinafold ( remember to fit it after the bracket ;) )

I used the existing fat washers, but bought some copper / self-fastening 13mm m8 nuts. But you need to grind a lot off the top of the manifold to get it to locate past the bits of alloy sticking out the head. That I did maybe 10 times until it sat flat.

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Porting wise all I did was open up the runner entries to the gasket and ground the collector down, the cylinder 4 collector had a bit of the runner tube sticking into the collector area which I reduced slightly
 

Stuart B

Registered User
Non welding solution for additional exhaust hangers ?

So... I know it's a TT and not an A3/S3 but I need an additional bolt on exhaust hanger and bracket or maybe only a downpipe hanger.

Essentially when I fitted the downpipe to my s3 i fitted it from above and removed the hanger, this was fine because the s3 exhaust hanger was at the front of the centre box and therefore held the exhaust tight. The TT has a hanger at the rear of the centre box - this is too much of a gap. I'm sure I saw someone bolt an extra bracket in the tunnel. The downpipe might be a little more difficult as it is on a curve and across the prop shaft.
 

<tuffty/>

Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow...
Staff member
Moderator
Pictures of the collector porting?

The collector is the most important part of porting... the manifold as cast caused misfires at higher RPM's so the porting that Bill does is imperative to preventing that from happening

If you haven't ported the collector enough then you may get misfires

<tuffty/>
 
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