A couple of things about 1.8t engine building

[Djordje1]

I would have thought you would have similar proitection maps on ECU master as Ignitron has if the engine is running lean. It's very obvious for me if the car starts suffering from fuel starvation on track. It will start popping in the exhaust and very shortly afterwards will go into limp mode, With the Lambda protection I have mapped. As soon as you slow down on track the fuel level is able to stabilise and you come into the pits.
There are many other things that could cause the engine to run lean such as fuel pump issues, fuel leaks, blockages, Fuel pump regulator problems like vacuum reference being lost. The monitoring covers from them all.
The Exide AGM batteries are fine under the bonnet .


View attachment 262498

Thank you a lot @desertstorm happy new year and all the best! I'll definitely set up limp mode for most of the stuff even for fuel as you did.

btw I can see you end up with some Skoda Fabia 1.4TDI. 6Q0121207L single fun setup instead of two fans as the factory did on TT. On the beetle, I also have two of them. Wondering if is it worth swapping them for Mishimoto or some other brand and make alu case for my CSF radiator. like this...

Just wondering, because I bought 95% of the all parts, and fans are still OEM/old, and most of that is upgraded or new OEM...


By btw safety wise, related to the battery relocation you did. I found some diagrams related to BR...

I can see some people buy Blue Sea safety hub and most of the people suggest fuse box close as possible to battery.Did you done anything of that? Do you have any link or safety hub in your setup?


Thank you a lot!

 

[desertstorm]

I don't have a fusible link or an isolator on my battery. I only run a short length of cable from behind the passenger seat to the main fuse box / distribution panel which was on top of the original battery. There is never normally a fuse in the circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The starter behaves almost like a short when first engaged. My A4 3.0 TDI with a 110Ah battery in the boot has no fuse on the main 50mm cable that runs from the boot to the front of the car. Use the correct grade cable with nice thick insulation and make sure that the cable won't get damaged or chafed on it's run to the front.
As regards fans, the stock fans work well. I replaced the two for a larger one to save some weight at the front of the car. I looked at buying a new fan and if you want to look into these I would have a look at what SPAL fans have to offer.

 

[Djordje1]

I don't have a fusible link or an isolator on my battery. I only run a short length of cable from behind the passenger seat to the main fuse box / distribution panel which was on top of the original battery. There is never normally a fuse in the circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The starter behaves almost like a short when first engaged. My A4 3.0 TDI with a 110Ah battery in the boot has no fuse on the main 50mm cable that runs from the boot to the front of the car. Use the correct grade cable with nice thick insulation and make sure that the cable won't get damaged or chafed on it's run to the front.
As regards fans, the stock fans work well. I replaced the two for a larger one to save some weight at the front of the car. I looked at buying a new fan and if you want to look into these I would have a look at what SPAL fans have to offer.

Thank you @desertstorm I'll try to find the best possible cable for battery relocation and do that safely. I have to check the measurements of my current fun. Not sure what the size of two of these actually is. Do you have specific to recommend from SPAL? They are brushless? Can I find them in uk or eu?

Btw.What about the aluminum case? Do you think that is worth it?
Thanks

 

[desertstorm]

Personally I would stick with some kind of stock solution for the fans if you have upgraded the rad to a CSF item then you have made a big improvement bo the stock cooling setup. Fans are there only to assist cooling when you are not driving at any decent speed. As soon as you are moving at 10-15mph the fans are pretty much redundant. If you are concerned with reliability of the older stock item you can buy new aftermarket stock items at a reasonable price. I swapped to a single larger fan to lose some weight however I bought a second hand fan as I was not 100% sure about the compatibilty of it. So ended up having to fix it as the low speed resistors were toast, which is a very common issue. A brand new Nissens item was only about 75 pounds for that fan.
The problem with that kind of smaller twin fan setup is the amount of flow restriction through the rad caused by the aluminium shield. All the air has to pass through the fans, On OE setups they tend to have a fairly open structure, so if you look at the fan I fitted to the TT you can see that there is large area for unimpeded airflow through the rad.

On a stock 225 TT setup with 2 fans, those 2 fans are quite large and the amount of flow restriction isn't that large. They have holes at the top of the fan pack to allow air to flow freely where the radiator is hottest at the top.

 

[Djordje1]

Personally I would stick with some kind of stock solution for the fans if you have upgraded the rad to a CSF item then you have made a big improvement bo the stock cooling setup. Fans are there only to assist cooling when you are not driving at any decent speed. As soon as you are moving at 10-15mph the fans are pretty much redundant. If you are concerned with reliability of the older stock item you can buy new aftermarket stock items at a reasonable price. I swapped to a single larger fan to lose some weight however I bought a second hand fan as I was not 100% sure about the compatibilty of it. So ended up having to fix it as the low speed resistors were toast, which is a very common issue. A brand new Nissens item was only about 75 pounds for that fan.
The problem with that kind of smaller twin fan setup is the amount of flow restriction through the rad caused by the aluminium shield. All the air has to pass through the fans, On OE setups they tend to have a fairly open structure, so if you look at the fan I fitted to the TT you can see that there is large area for unimpeded airflow through the rad.
View attachment 262718

On a stock 225 TT setup with 2 fans, those 2 fans are quite large and the amount of flow restriction isn't that large. They have holes at the top of the fan pack to allow air to flow freely where the radiator is hottest at the top.
View attachment 262719

Right!
That makes sense @desertstorm


I got my CSF 7025 radiator and I'll keep the stocks fans. I'll avoid alu case and stick to OEM if I noticed I need a better fan I'll go with Spal as you suggested.
Btw relation to the polyurethane you used...Did you try to correct the difference between the old and new mounts or did you just pour it in what you have...Talking about hole difference...

 

[desertstorm]

Wow theres a big difference in those isn't there. Quite amazing how much compression has occurred. I used the old mounts so never had the issues that you are seeing. I did slightly compress the gearbox mount before I poly filled it just to lower it a few mm. When it's filled it won't compress as much as a stock mount would.

 

[Djordje1]

Wow theres a big difference in those isn't there. Quite amazing how much compression has occurred. I used the old mounts so never had the issues that you are seeing. I did slightly compress the gearbox mount before I poly filled it just to lower it a few mm. When it's filled it won't compress as much as a stock mount would.

This is just an example I found. I'll check what is situation on my car. However, I'll do the same as you did. Compressed a bit if it's necessary and poured the poly...

Btw question for everyone.
I bought a Supertech valvetrain set and vale guides as well. Are they need to be trimmed to some specific length? or they are just plug-and-play? @<tuffty/>

Thanks,
Djordje