rear wheels locking during 3 point turns.can anybody help?
- Thread starter lukens3
- Start date
Sounds good. The question is now:
was it the diff or was it the haldex controller/unit faulty ?
But it doesn't matter your all good now - that's what counts.
was it the diff or was it the haldex controller/unit faulty ?
But it doesn't matter your all good now - that's what counts.
^^^tl;dr
Joking, but there is a lot of back and forth up there that I probably don't need to sift through - how easy/much was it to change the diff and haldex unit? Did you get new ones or just second hand?
I'm looking at throwing a few quid at the car before winter shows up, and this is very high up my list. I don't really fancy getting stuck in the snow with a car that won't do a 3-point turn!
Joking, but there is a lot of back and forth up there that I probably don't need to sift through - how easy/much was it to change the diff and haldex unit? Did you get new ones or just second hand?
I'm looking at throwing a few quid at the car before winter shows up, and this is very high up my list. I don't really fancy getting stuck in the snow with a car that won't do a 3-point turn!
no one in their right mind would get a new diff/haldex - unless someone else is paying for that.
Second hand is your probably your best bet, but there is even a chance somewhere in there that you maybe buying another dodgy one.
I don't think I've ever heard of anyone having theirs overhauled/repaired.
Best to make sure it has come off a frontal damage/write off either S3 or TT - at least you limit your chances of getting another with the same issue.
And finally, just because lukens3 had that fault doesn't mean yours is defintely the same issue. I've just read so many articles with this kind of problem with all varying solutions. Best to start cheap and work your way up.
As for second hand prices & fitting......anyone ?
Second hand is your probably your best bet, but there is even a chance somewhere in there that you maybe buying another dodgy one.
I don't think I've ever heard of anyone having theirs overhauled/repaired.
Best to make sure it has come off a frontal damage/write off either S3 or TT - at least you limit your chances of getting another with the same issue.
And finally, just because lukens3 had that fault doesn't mean yours is defintely the same issue. I've just read so many articles with this kind of problem with all varying solutions. Best to start cheap and work your way up.
As for second hand prices & fitting......anyone ?
mark_sarah
Limp mode!
Only read half the posts, so i apologies in advance if this is repeated.
I had the same problem, to the point that it was dangerous on roundabouts, so i got the car on the ramps and found oil all over the haldex unit and rear diff. Could'nt identify the leak, so i drained all the remaining haldex oil (what was left), replaced the filter and put in oil. It no longer leaked, but i noticed there was still not enough oil in the haldex unit, so i had to put in another 20ml.
My S3 now feels better than when i first bought it.
I had the same problem, to the point that it was dangerous on roundabouts, so i got the car on the ramps and found oil all over the haldex unit and rear diff. Could'nt identify the leak, so i drained all the remaining haldex oil (what was left), replaced the filter and put in oil. It no longer leaked, but i noticed there was still not enough oil in the haldex unit, so i had to put in another 20ml.
My S3 now feels better than when i first bought it.
lukens3
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i think my problem was the haldex but not 100% i paid 150 for haldex and diff so i think i got a bargain ,they came off a tt with front damage.ive heard of a lot of people with this problem and it has been many differant componts. i tryed angle sensor which i had a fault with then abs ecu then diff and haldex .just really glad its sorted now .its like a differant car now . hope every 1 else gets theres sorted
Hi All,
I'm got a similar situation to the one described here. ie; when parking etc the whole driveline seems to load up. Just to clarify, if the parkbrake is pulled on one notch, it disengages the Haldex controller?
I'm got a similar situation to the one described here. ie; when parking etc the whole driveline seems to load up. Just to clarify, if the parkbrake is pulled on one notch, it disengages the Haldex controller?
Hi Guys
I realise this is an old thread but I hope someone can shed some light on whats going on with my car. (2002 Audi S3 8L)
To get straight to the point, When ever im turning fairly tight at slow speeds (under 10mph), my back wheels are skidding, and its as if the back is bouncing round the corner a little...but its only the rear wheels and only the side im turning. I.e. if im turning right, the right hand rear wheel will lock..and vice-versa. The ESP light also flashed as this is happening and turning the ESP off does nothing.
Now it also boggs the engine down when this happens, and I cannot accelerate out of it, so I have to straighten the front wheels to nearly fully straight for it to stop and for the car to accelerate normally. I will also add that it does this in forward and reverse gears
Now ive had someone look at the wheels while I I turn out of my road, and it was completely the opposite to what I thought....the wheels are actually being spun faster then the car is moving...which is extremely strange...and is going to mess my tires up and god knows what else as I have to drive round tight corners daily...
Now as previously said, it does this in forward and reverse gears, and when I reverse, I can hear some strange noises coming from what I think is the four wheel drive system and its a kind of knocking/grinding noise (again only from the rear and only when the wheels are spinning)
Ive had it plugged into the computer at audi and no faults were detected....
Now I wonder if anyone could shed some light on this...as its really frustrating as I cannot work out whats happening
I realise this is an old thread but I hope someone can shed some light on whats going on with my car. (2002 Audi S3 8L)
To get straight to the point, When ever im turning fairly tight at slow speeds (under 10mph), my back wheels are skidding, and its as if the back is bouncing round the corner a little...but its only the rear wheels and only the side im turning. I.e. if im turning right, the right hand rear wheel will lock..and vice-versa. The ESP light also flashed as this is happening and turning the ESP off does nothing.
Now it also boggs the engine down when this happens, and I cannot accelerate out of it, so I have to straighten the front wheels to nearly fully straight for it to stop and for the car to accelerate normally. I will also add that it does this in forward and reverse gears
Now ive had someone look at the wheels while I I turn out of my road, and it was completely the opposite to what I thought....the wheels are actually being spun faster then the car is moving...which is extremely strange...and is going to mess my tires up and god knows what else as I have to drive round tight corners daily...
Now as previously said, it does this in forward and reverse gears, and when I reverse, I can hear some strange noises coming from what I think is the four wheel drive system and its a kind of knocking/grinding noise (again only from the rear and only when the wheels are spinning)
Ive had it plugged into the computer at audi and no faults were detected....
Now I wonder if anyone could shed some light on this...as its really frustrating as I cannot work out whats happening
I chose this thread to reply as it's the one most people have one.
Surely there is enough within this thread with guys who solved their issue to give you the possible solutions you require.
The possible additional question to ask is to those individuals above who found a cure to their problem......are those cars still clear of the issues ?
Surely there is enough within this thread with guys who solved their issue to give you the possible solutions you require.
The possible additional question to ask is to those individuals above who found a cure to their problem......are those cars still clear of the issues ?
I have read through all three that I have posted on, and some people some to be describing a different problem. No ones wheels are spinning faster then they should when turning (unless ive missed something)
As it seems youve posted in all three of the threads I posted the above in, I had considered private messaging you, but i thought I would put it out there first.
Haldex oil
Haldex Filter
Haldex Coupling (dont know what that is??)
These are the three names ive picked up of probably causes.
Would you mind taking the time to explain to me how a lack of oil could cause this? (wheels spinning) as locking is what would come into my mind if a lack of oil was the issue......Same goes for clogged filter which = less oil (or a bypassing of the filter vie a bypass valve allowing contaminated oil to enter the system) if the car is equipped with such a thing.
Right some updates on my situation. I know its been around 8 months since I last posted about this issue, so this is the status.
I have had it taken to a friend who works at audi, and no faults were detected. It was also the first time he had ever seen anything like this and therefore had no answers for me...very frustrating as in the mean time, it was very very slowly, getting worse and more noticeable.
Now around three months ago, It underwent a full service, and I explained the issues and said when changing the diff oil/haldex oil and in that general area, could you look out for anything unusual or any ferrous metal bits in the oil, as the grinding sound when turn sounded like gears trying to mesh but failing and almost grinding.
Again, nothing was found, and everything was said to be in good working order from what he could see...and offered no explanation for the problem, other then to say, "I have never seen that before". I must admit, for about a week after, it would have appeared that it was slightly better, but this could have been due to me expecting it because I had just spent a lot of money having the care taken care of....but perhaps nothing had changed.
I have read on here, the trick with the hand brake, and thats one way to tell if the Haldex controller is working or not...and it made no difference at at all (tried pulling it up to various positions and nothing changed).
Now I have no experience with differentials apart from knowing the principle of operation, and I have read somewhere on here, about the possibility of changing that...
Now to me, this sounds like a huge deal, and a very costly one...and as I dont know whats going on in there, obviously im not sure if this would even fix the problem, as I still have not had this issue diagnosed.
Would possibly mind taken the time to explain what can actually go wrong with the operation of a 4WD system and especially the haldex system...which could cause this.
I also stumbled accross this, as I bumped into an old friend the other night and he said the R32 had the same or very similar system: Rear diff binding - Performance and Technical - R32OC | VW Golf R32, Golf R and other .:R Vehicle Owners Club.
After reading this thread, they talk about removing the haldex controller fuse, and then see what happens. This will be my next step...but after that, I dont really know what my options are
Any further advice would be greatly appreciated
Anton
I have had it taken to a friend who works at audi, and no faults were detected. It was also the first time he had ever seen anything like this and therefore had no answers for me...very frustrating as in the mean time, it was very very slowly, getting worse and more noticeable.
Now around three months ago, It underwent a full service, and I explained the issues and said when changing the diff oil/haldex oil and in that general area, could you look out for anything unusual or any ferrous metal bits in the oil, as the grinding sound when turn sounded like gears trying to mesh but failing and almost grinding.
Again, nothing was found, and everything was said to be in good working order from what he could see...and offered no explanation for the problem, other then to say, "I have never seen that before". I must admit, for about a week after, it would have appeared that it was slightly better, but this could have been due to me expecting it because I had just spent a lot of money having the care taken care of....but perhaps nothing had changed.
I have read on here, the trick with the hand brake, and thats one way to tell if the Haldex controller is working or not...and it made no difference at at all (tried pulling it up to various positions and nothing changed).
Now I have no experience with differentials apart from knowing the principle of operation, and I have read somewhere on here, about the possibility of changing that...
Now to me, this sounds like a huge deal, and a very costly one...and as I dont know whats going on in there, obviously im not sure if this would even fix the problem, as I still have not had this issue diagnosed.
Would possibly mind taken the time to explain what can actually go wrong with the operation of a 4WD system and especially the haldex system...which could cause this.
I also stumbled accross this, as I bumped into an old friend the other night and he said the R32 had the same or very similar system: Rear diff binding - Performance and Technical - R32OC | VW Golf R32, Golf R and other .:R Vehicle Owners Club.
After reading this thread, they talk about removing the haldex controller fuse, and then see what happens. This will be my next step...but after that, I dont really know what my options are
Any further advice would be greatly appreciated
Anton
UPDATE:::
I removed the fuse which is number 31 in the box and stated "Haldex Clutch" on it, and hey presto...all my issue went away. There were four very sharp jolts to begin with but after that, on full lock forward/reverse and left/right, nothing, not one bit of noise or grinding/shaking/jolting going on....
I will say that the ESP light came on and stayed on, and couldnt be turned off for the duration of my very short drive, but turned engine off and then back on again and it was gone (im sure if I took it for another drive, it would come on again)
So am I correct in thinking, this is my Haldex Controller, as from the knowledge I have, if it was my rear differential, pulling a fuse would do ****** all to solve the issue?
I eagerly await a response on here
Anton
I removed the fuse which is number 31 in the box and stated "Haldex Clutch" on it, and hey presto...all my issue went away. There were four very sharp jolts to begin with but after that, on full lock forward/reverse and left/right, nothing, not one bit of noise or grinding/shaking/jolting going on....
I will say that the ESP light came on and stayed on, and couldnt be turned off for the duration of my very short drive, but turned engine off and then back on again and it was gone (im sure if I took it for another drive, it would come on again)
So am I correct in thinking, this is my Haldex Controller, as from the knowledge I have, if it was my rear differential, pulling a fuse would do ****** all to solve the issue?
I eagerly await a response on here
Anton
from reading your symptoms and the results of removing the fuse sounds like what i had although I didn't get any initial sharp jolts when i removing the fuse. I have been taking it very (very) easy during this time when doing 3 point turns and coming out of junctions/roundabouts,etc
Mine turned out to be the haldex controller having changed the filter and haldex oil with no luck, but it took me a few years before I actually managed to source a controller with good credentials. The problem is, as you have probably read, there are many S3's with this issue....so simply bear that in mind when making decisions on buying second hand.
Let's put it this way a year ago (when i had the problem) I would have accepted writing my car off from any light accident. So even an advert for parts stating frontal damage...think again. If you're replacing it yourself, then you could simply take a chance (I paid a garage to get i done). If you then replace it and continue to have the problem then you may then be lead down the wrong path thinking it it may not be the controller!...been there in the past having replaced personally an air bag controller 3 times before finding a good one and obviously you don't send them back because you end up having doubts that the controller must be OK! Basically....so may pit-holes going down this avenue. It doesn't help when there are no fault codes.
BUT this is my own personal experience and there are many others who take the risk many times and get away with it.
Mine turned out to be the haldex controller having changed the filter and haldex oil with no luck, but it took me a few years before I actually managed to source a controller with good credentials. The problem is, as you have probably read, there are many S3's with this issue....so simply bear that in mind when making decisions on buying second hand.
Let's put it this way a year ago (when i had the problem) I would have accepted writing my car off from any light accident. So even an advert for parts stating frontal damage...think again. If you're replacing it yourself, then you could simply take a chance (I paid a garage to get i done). If you then replace it and continue to have the problem then you may then be lead down the wrong path thinking it it may not be the controller!...been there in the past having replaced personally an air bag controller 3 times before finding a good one and obviously you don't send them back because you end up having doubts that the controller must be OK! Basically....so may pit-holes going down this avenue. It doesn't help when there are no fault codes.
BUT this is my own personal experience and there are many others who take the risk many times and get away with it.
thank s so much for getting back to me. Okay, well im not sure if I should be relieved or not yet, as ive seen some prices for Haldex controllers, and they are more then the diff would cost...
Can I ask whether you used a second hand one or new unit? and what was the price roughly? so I know what a good price and or bad price is.
IM still shocked at how mechanical the whole thing felt and how pulling one fuse has stopped it. Would I be doing any damage running the car with the fuse out for now?
Yes this was the most frustrating thing, there were no codes at all coming up....funny how it seems to be a common fault and yet they were never recalled and the issue sorted.
How does your run now?
Can I ask whether you used a second hand one or new unit? and what was the price roughly? so I know what a good price and or bad price is.
IM still shocked at how mechanical the whole thing felt and how pulling one fuse has stopped it. Would I be doing any damage running the car with the fuse out for now?
Yes this was the most frustrating thing, there were no codes at all coming up....funny how it seems to be a common fault and yet they were never recalled and the issue sorted.
How does your run now?
I bought mine off ebay from a guy in USA who was selling a brand new one. The total cost (incl us taxes) delivered including exchange rate was about £155. I was fortunate as this was the only new one I've seen in years! I think generally as a rule £120-£150 is the guide price for a second hand one judging from the many adverts I had seen. You are not damaging anything from removing the fuse and continuing to drive.
You can always put a wanted advert in the forums for a controller from a member who knows for a fact the controller is good.
There are many similar 'features' on all makes of cars where they are known for certain faults and yet they are not recalled.....it is what it is!
You can always put a wanted advert in the forums for a controller from a member who knows for a fact the controller is good.
There are many similar 'features' on all makes of cars where they are known for certain faults and yet they are not recalled.....it is what it is!
okay well its a heck of a lot cheaper then the rear differential (I had only found new prices for the Haldex controller @ silly money).
I shall do just that, and please if you happen to come across one (just in case
then let me know.
Is there any way it could be something other then this? or does the pulling of the fuse only lead to the one thing?
I shall do just that, and please if you happen to come across one (just in case
then let me know.Is there any way it could be something other then this? or does the pulling of the fuse only lead to the one thing?
well, I'll leave that for others to comment on. there are many many posts discussing this issue so have a good long read.
One very old post that sticks in my mind had a guy replace pretty much everything in the back only to be told by the dealer in the end it was the abs controller. Either the guy got mixed up with which controller was replaced or the dealer was being a dealer...!
One very old post that sticks in my mind had a guy replace pretty much everything in the back only to be told by the dealer in the end it was the abs controller. Either the guy got mixed up with which controller was replaced or the dealer was being a dealer...!
