Power then no power

[Timmc]

Starting to fed up to the stage where I might just get rid of the car. Driving along plenty of power then no power at all, like that for a while then power back again. I had a Neuspeed induction kit on it but i've now removed that and gone back to the satndard airbox. I've changed air flow meters and it still does the same thing.

Any one got any ideas before I either waste money at a garage or get rid of it???

 

[Timmc]

Thanks for all the replies, think i'll just sell it!

 

[S3mad]

Get it connected to VAGCOM

 

[Clach]

What do you mean no power, does it stall, stutter or jerk...?

I hear you about selling. I have had VW's etc for years and this engine and tranny are driving me nuts, and are alsolikely to drive me into Honda's hands...It's always something with my car!!!

 

[Timmc]

It just goes completly gutless, could probably be done off the lights by a lawnmower, then all of a sudden the power is back. Then again at some point when it feels like it it goes again and on and on

 

[Clach]

Lots of possibilities unfortunately. Failing coilpacks are the too obvious, and depending on the year of the car it could be the Injector amplifier even failing battery. But, the former would be a defo. shudder. It could be a bad fuel/air mix and the car is throwing you into limp mode on boost. Perhaps, get some codes and go from there? Where are you located mate..

 

[Tastyterrier]

Does sound like the age old coilpack issue. As the others say, get it on Vag-com

 

[simch]

That , my friend, is almost certainly a MAF problem, coilpacks would be accompanied by misfires.

Get it on VAGCOM, but if you cannot find a place, it is worth getting a new MAF, you will need it eventually!

MAF when it goes is symptoms like yours, revs a bit wiht power and boost, gets to about 3k, flat as a fart, up to 5k, then woosh in comes some boost etc! Most disconcerting when you are overtaking for example!

Get a genuine MAF not a cheap one off the bay, not worth the plastic they are mad eof.

BTW, a few more symptoms and descriptions would help, then you will get more replies and not need your defeatest sarcy comment in your second post!!! LOL

MAF would be my bet, but vagcom shoudl tell you. How many miles and year, engine code etc etc?

 

[Timmc]

It's A brand new bosch MAF on there, only been on a couple of days

 

[s3_kev]

have you looked at this link http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=61712

 

[simch]

It's A brand new bosch MAF on there, only been on a couple of days

Like I say a bit more info would help. Was it an AUDI supplied MAF or one from GSF, Eurocarparts ebay etc? If the latter, it is likely still to be at fault as there are sevral threads on here about poor quality OEM MAFs through the discount parts places!

You should describe your symptoms a bit more accurately!

 

[HTC]

You have to reset the ecu to make the new MAF effective. Can be done via vag-com.

Or if you disconnect the battery and leave it for about 15-20mins then reconnect you should be good to go.

Make sure you have your radio code handy as well.

 

[Clach]

You have to reset the ecu to make the new MAF effective. Can be done via vag-com.

Or if you disconnect the battery and leave it for about 15-20mins then reconnect you should be good to go.

Make sure you have your radio code handy as well.

My battery was off for a while getting the tranny fixed, and never needed the radio code. And why does the ecu need to be reset with a new MAF? Is that for face lifts only?

 

[HTC]

Some radios talk to the immobiliser and ecu. If it see's the same serial numbers it will not ask you for the code even if the power has been disconnected. Put the same radio in another car and it's a different story.
Some radios, ask for the code whatever (older non can bus presumably). Better to be safe that sorry and all that.

DBW cars tend to want a reset to acknowledge the new MAF.

 

[Clach]

ok, mine is AGU