So as weve debated this quite alot iam gonna change my paper filter for a standard(non max power special)!!
but wheres best too buy any tips?
audi? vag? halfords?
but wheres best too buy any tips?
audi? vag? halfords?
best s3 air filter??
- Thread starter s3 al
- Start date
OK Vag are 9 quid for the air filter, but what about the pollen filter? as iam working away from home and the car i cannot go and look if someone could please tell me best too change both togther i guess??
anyone got better prices approx 20 for them both?
anyone got better prices approx 20 for them both?
ash_s3
Registered User
Ess_Three said:
Not being funny, but...
Why do people get so hung-up on intake temperatures?
Surely your nice cold air will soon be nice hot air by the time it passes down the TIP and through the roasting hot turbo??
Surely the intercooler does all the cooling that matters??
Im no expert so i could well be talking ********, but i just wondered.
Ess_Three
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ash_s3 said:
Basically, your ICs are only part efficient...and in the case if an S3 with a re-map and higher boost...they aren't very efficient at all.
So if your ICs can knock only some of the heat out of the inlet charge, the cooler the air in, the less work they have to do and the cooler the inlet carge at the inlet ports.
On an S3 with a standard air filter set up, the air is taken from the inner wing at ambient temperature, the airbox is an insulator, and the rubber TIP also an insulator so as long as the air keeps moving, it remains pretty much at ambient temperature - say 10 degrees C.
With a re-mapped S3 making say 260 BHP and 290 lb-ft it will be running about 1.4 bar of boost...meaning the turbo compresor outlet temperature will be up around 100+ degrees before the ICs and probably around 50+ after.
When my old S3 was running 300+ lb-ft and 1.4+ bar and the temperature after the standard ICs was 74 degrees C with ambient air around 17 degrees C.
So an IC will only take out so much heat...obviously as the ambient air hitting the ICs/FMIC gets colder, it will take out slightly more heat...but they are only so efficient and there is a limit on how much heat you can sink out of the inlet charge using the standard ICs or FMIC.
So if the ICs/FMIC are only able to knock out so much heat...and to use an example I have proper data for (my old S3) you will see 20-30 degree C inlet charge temperatures for ambient air of up to 20 degrees C hitting the std DSMIC+FMIC combo, you are able to watch the engine 'heatsoak' on the dyno by doing multiple runs where the air taken in by the engine gets gradually hotter because it's taken from within the workshop, so as the dyno cell gets hotter, so does the air the engine ingests...and as the ICs get hotter, their eficiency drops, so they are less able to cool.
As this happens, the ICs are able to knock out les heat, so the engine sees more heat at the inlet manifold, and if the temperatures keep rising the ECU starts retarding the timing to protect the engine from detonation.
The principle is the same as allowing the engine to suck in hot air from the engine bay - whether it be a cone filter or not - hot air in = hotter air at the inlet maniold = poor throttle response and less power as the ECU tries to protect the engine.
I hope that makes sense...
I guess it you could fit a big enough FMIC...but it's a trade off against adding lag, and it's doubtful there is space to get a really big FMIC in there without lots of fabrication work.
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To put it a different way:
Ever noticed how well the S3 goes on a cold day?
When the temperature is close to 0C?
It flies...
Any and every petrol engine likes cold air..the colder the better (more dense air etc).
This is why CAI kits are popular...it's almost like adding power - it's not normally 'adding' power, merely loosing less of what the engine is capable of producing in optimal conditions.
Same principle for turbo or NA engines...the colder the air at the engine the better...
Ever noticed how well the S3 goes on a cold day?
When the temperature is close to 0C?
It flies...
Any and every petrol engine likes cold air..the colder the better (more dense air etc).
This is why CAI kits are popular...it's almost like adding power - it's not normally 'adding' power, merely loosing less of what the engine is capable of producing in optimal conditions.
Same principle for turbo or NA engines...the colder the air at the engine the better...
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JohnStan725
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I have an open air filter cone on a 1.6L i kind of agree with the hot air statement as when i have been driving a good few hours and im stuck in traffic it isnt as smooth as when i drive first thing in the morning, i have checked the temp for the intake air on this, in traffic im roughly getting 50+ degress however when im driving this drops down to 21 degress, and performance is back to normal, the sound is a nice deep tone, £9 ebay cone lol however had to get an adapter for it to fit on the MFA, no performance increase ofcourse...
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On a non turbo car, this is correct and to be expected and not the best thing for your car.
JohnStan725
Registered User
Superkarl, what would you recommend as its a non turbo? i love the cone filter though is there a way to make this better for my engine?
not coincidence, mine had the same set up, water causes ecu to shut down. I switched back to stock airbox with holes. The intake was very clean now with no dirts and so on. Where as before I had dirts all over the maf as a results of LESS RESTRICTION and suck up all dirts thru my charger-intercooler -maf. Now I have proven its all clean, because I have checked. I hope this helps.
Cold air intake system is better for normally aspirated engines, as the cone is enclosed with an intake hose taken to the front of the car or in the wheel arch, out of the engine bay, I have the S2000 filter on mine with a heat shield, nice and cheap and works well, being paper the filtration is same as a stock filter.
JohnStan725
Registered User
Ayfreetree, so you saying basically get a heat shield or cover the cone in original casing with an air feed to the air filter either from the front of the car or wheel arch? I do already have the wheel arch air feed just need to enhance it a little more.
i would be intersted to see the dyno comparision of s2000 filter vs stock with bigger inlet holes. There is a theory that if you have too big inlet on stock box will loss pressure.
If the cold feed comes from the front of the car, there will be an amount of ram intake effect giving better air flow to the filter, as apposed to the wing inlet will be of lowe pressure air with the filter having to suck the air in, therefore a sealed box would be better for that itype of ntake.
JohnStan725
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