New B8 S4 Avant owner. Some questions & photos

[APL 3.0TDi]

Hi everyone

I have recently bought a 2010 S4 Avant.
It is quite a basic spec, but is in nice condition, and has been well looked after.

So far I have done the air box mod and added and Airdual MMI bluetooth attachment (which works really well).

I have some questions about some improvements I intend to make.
In no particular order.

1. I have already done the air box mod and fitted a K&N filter. However the induction noise is no louder. I am awaiting a forge intake hose to replace the OEM pipe. Do you think this will make it louder? I am hoping that removing the resonator from on the OEM pipe will help.

2. I have to do something with the steering wheel. I've come from a few years of BMW's. The wheel in the S4 is OK, but it is very skinny and feels hard. Does anyone know of a good re-trimmer that isn't Royal wheels? I have nothing against Royal at all, in fact from what I've seen of them I think they are top notch. But I think their lead times are going up and up due to their success.
2.b. How easy is it to swap the wheel for a more modern one?

3. Is a remap worth it without changing the pulleys? I'd OK with paying c£500 for the map, but when you get into pulleys the prices go up quite a bit. Most companies quote around 400-420BHP from the stage 1 map. Does that make a huge difference by it's self?

Also some questions about some maintenance and wear/tear

1. I sometimes have some vibration through the steering wheel when breaking from higher speeds. I am assuming this is warped discs, but they were only changed around 15k miles ago. I've seen a few posts about this, is this just a common issue?

2. When pulling away slowly I get a low speed judder. This also happens when pulling up slowly. Has anyone else experienced this? I am worried it is DSG related. (PS it had it's DSG service at 50k miles. It's now on 64k, is it worth having it done again?)

3. It has a slightly rough idle. It's more of a wobble than a missfire. I am assuming this is probably engine mounts, but any insights and experiences would be welcome.


I have the car booked in with AMD in Woking for next week who are going to give it a good going over. I'm hoping they can diagnose some of the issues then do some tuning work once it is right.

Any responses are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Antony

 

[ninjag]

Re. remap and pulleys, I keep reading that these cars run pretty hot and an uprated intercooler is a smart move if increasing the power but as mine is still currently stock then I've got no experience of this to give, just online research. But if you are worried about a potential DSG issue then I would look at that first.

Regarding the vibration, it can often just be pad transfer onto the discs if they are hot and you come to a standstill - or if you've got sticking caliper slide pins. I sometimes get very faint vibration when braking and I find a few good hard brakes will clear it up. It's night and day compared to the Jaguar XF which was horrible for it and very common. Slide pins would gunk up and the rubber boots would swell - presumably from someone previously using copper grease to lube the pins.

 

[Simon]

Discs and pads are cheap and easy to replace, tbh I’d go straight for an upgrade to macan Calipers.

I had a custom map for mine, was only £300 done on a Dyno, I didn’t go for pulley upgrade as mine is a manual. Misfire could well be down to coil packs I had misfire codes that were cured by changing them. On mine I drilled the air box and fitted a cone filter, get plenty of induction noise now

 

[Dippy]

I'm not sure you will like some of my comments.
MODS
1) If the mod is that hole in the top then that will be to the detriment of performance since it will draw in hotter air from the engine bay. The best mod is to open up the blanked secondary intake at the front of the airbox. Certainly removing the Helmholz resonator on the OE airpipe will increase noise because its purpose is to reduce it. But I didn't notice a big change in noise after my mods.
3) Yes, a decent stage 1 will raise peak torque about 20-25% and power about 30-35%. Stage 2 will be around 30% and 40%, so it is diminishing returns. However it is worth noting that there have been an uncomfortable number of reports of OE crank pulley failure, so uprating it can solve that risk.
MAINTENANCE
2) Service was late, should have been 38K. The gen 1 gearbox has two ATF filters and both are considered non-service items (one was deleted at gen 2 and the other became a service item). So yes, a full service is recommended but it might have to be an indie tech in order to change the filters and gear oil. Reliability has been the main driver for gen 2 and 3. Most gen 1 and 2 problems relate to gear selection (mechatronics) so a judder might just be old ATF. Mileage is too low for clutchpack wear unless previous owner(s) did lots of standing launches.
3) Probably needs diagnostics. Engine mounts should throw DTCs.

 

[APL 3.0TDi]

Re. remap and pulleys, I keep reading that these cars run pretty hot and an uprated intercooler is a smart move if increasing the power but as mine is still currently stock then I've got no experience of this to give, just online research. But if you are worried about a potential DSG issue then I would look at that first.

Regarding the vibration, it can often just be pad transfer onto the discs if they are hot and you come to a standstill - or if you've got sticking caliper slide pins. I sometimes get very faint vibration when braking and I find a few good hard brakes will clear it up. It's night and day compared to the Jaguar XF which was horrible for it and very common. Slide pins would gunk up and the rubber boots would swell - presumably from someone previously using copper grease to lube the pins.

Thanks

Interesting perspective on the slow speed vibration. That could explain it. I'll have to take one of the calipers off and have a look.

Discs and pads are cheap and easy to replace, tbh I’d go straight for an upgrade to macan Calipers.

I had a custom map for mine, was only £300 done on a Dyno, I didn’t go for pulley upgrade as mine is a manual. Misfire could well be down to coil packs I had misfire codes that were cured by changing them. On mine I drilled the air box and fitted a cone filter, get plenty of induction noise now

Yeah, I think new discs and pads is a good idea.
I did wonder if it could be a coil. It's more of a wobble than a miss though.

I'm not sure you will like some of my comments.
MODS
1) If the mod is that hole in the top then that will be to the detriment of performance since it will draw in hotter air from the engine bay. The best mod is to open up the blanked secondary intake at the front of the airbox. Certainly removing the Helmholz resonator on the OE airpipe will increase noise because its purpose is to reduce it. But I didn't notice a big change in noise after my mods.
3) Yes, a decent stage 1 will raise peak torque about 20-25% and power about 30-35%. Stage 2 will be around 30% and 40%, so it is diminishing returns. However it is worth noting that there have been an uncomfortable number of reports of OE crank pulley failure, so uprating it can solve that risk.
MAINTENANCE
2) Service was late, should have been 38K. The gen 1 gearbox has two ATF filters and both are considered non-service items (one was deleted at gen 2 and the other became a service item). So yes, a full service is recommended but it might have to be an indie tech in order to change the filters and gear oil. Reliability has been the main driver for gen 2 and 3. Most gen 1 and 2 problems relate to gear selection (mechatronics) so a judder might just be old ATF. Mileage is too low for clutchpack wear unless previous owner(s) did lots of standing launches.
3) Probably needs diagnostics. Engine mounts should throw DTCs.

No worries about insulting me I'm a seasoned forum member. I was actually on the A3 forum for a long while back in 2010!
Yes the air box mod I am referring too is the hole in the top. I of course understand the risk of hot air mixing in with the charge air, but I doubt there is much of an impact when on the move as the existing snorkel is in place. I copied this design from someone who has done it and they supposedly measured the inlet air temps and didn't see a difference. I've done it to try and increase the induction noise, but it has not made any difference, which I am confused with. I've got a forge silicone pipe on order to replace the OEM intake pipe, this will remove the resonator. I'm hoping this will give me more induction noise..... we'll see!
Thanks for the heads up on the crank pulley. Not heard of that before you told me. Does failure typically cause any other damage?
Great pointer on the transmission ATF filters, thanks. I'll ask AMD about them to see if they have any insight.

Cheers

Antony

 

[ninjag]

Thanks

Interesting perspective on the slow speed vibration. That could explain it. I'll have to take one of the calipers off and have a look.

Yeah, I think new discs and pads is a good idea.
I did wonder if it could be a coil. It's more of a wobble than a miss though.

No worries about insulting me I'm a seasoned forum member. I was actually on the A3 forum for a long while back in 2010!
Yes the air box mod I am referring too is the hole in the top. I of course understand the risk of hot air mixing in with the charge air, but I doubt there is much of an impact when on the move as the existing snorkel is in place. I copied this design from someone who has done it and they supposedly measured the inlet air temps and didn't see a difference. I've done it to try and increase the induction noise, but it has not made any difference, which I am confused with. I've got a forge silicone pipe on order to replace the OEM intake pipe, this will remove the resonator. I'm hoping this will give me more induction noise..... we'll see!
Thanks for the heads up on the crank pulley. Not heard of that before you told me. Does failure typically cause any other damage?
Great pointer on the transmission ATF filters, thanks. I'll ask AMD about them to see if they have any insight.

Cheers

Antony

Apologies, I should have been more clear in that I was referring to the brake judder from high speed.

 

[ninjag]

I'm not sure you will like some of my comments.
MODS
1) If the mod is that hole in the top then that will be to the detriment of performance since it will draw in hotter air from the engine bay. The best mod is to open up the blanked secondary intake at the front of the airbox. Certainly removing the Helmholz resonator on the OE airpipe will increase noise because its purpose is to reduce it. But I didn't notice a big change in noise after my mods.
3) Yes, a decent stage 1 will raise peak torque about 20-25% and power about 30-35%. Stage 2 will be around 30% and 40%, so it is diminishing returns. However it is worth noting that there have been an uncomfortable number of reports of OE crank pulley failure, so uprating it can solve that risk.
MAINTENANCE
2) Service was late, should have been 38K. The gen 1 gearbox has two ATF filters and both are considered non-service items (one was deleted at gen 2 and the other became a service item). So yes, a full service is recommended but it might have to be an indie tech in order to change the filters and gear oil. Reliability has been the main driver for gen 2 and 3. Most gen 1 and 2 problems relate to gear selection (mechatronics) so a judder might just be old ATF. Mileage is too low for clutchpack wear unless previous owner(s) did lots of standing launches.
3) Probably needs diagnostics. Engine mounts should throw DTCs.

Is that deleted filter you mention the internal strainer?

 

[Dippy]

Is that deleted filter you mention the internal strainer?

No. On the gen 1 gearbox there is an external pressure line & filter 8K0 317 823, as well as the main filter 0B5 325 060. In gen 1 the pressure filter was deleted and the main filer became a service item.

Thanks

Interesting perspective on the slow speed vibration. That could explain it. I'll have to take one of the calipers off and have a look.

Yeah, I think new discs and pads is a good idea.
I did wonder if it could be a coil. It's more of a wobble than a miss though.

No worries about insulting me I'm a seasoned forum member. I was actually on the A3 forum for a long while back in 2010!
Yes the air box mod I am referring too is the hole in the top. I of course understand the risk of hot air mixing in with the charge air, but I doubt there is much of an impact when on the move as the existing snorkel is in place. I copied this design from someone who has done it and they supposedly measured the inlet air temps and didn't see a difference. I've done it to try and increase the induction noise, but it has not made any difference, which I am confused with. I've got a forge silicone pipe on order to replace the OEM intake pipe, this will remove the resonator. I'm hoping this will give me more induction noise..... we'll see!
Thanks for the heads up on the crank pulley. Not heard of that before you told me. Does failure typically cause any other damage?
Great pointer on the transmission ATF filters, thanks. I'll ask AMD about them to see if they have any insight.

Cheers

Antony

But there is a secondary cold air intake for this airbox. Since it is not used for the S4/S5 (I'm not sure which model uses it) it is blanked off. The standard mod is to drill out this circle which allows more cold air from the front. I'd be surprised if a hole at the top makes much difference to sound.

The crank pulley is in two parts fused together with a flexible polymer. According to Audi this "rubber buffer" acts as a "shared torsion vibration damper" for better "resonance damping at low engine speeds and also full throttle" in isolating the supercharger drive from the auxiliaries. Unfortunately the polymer can crack over time and there have been cases where it has failed completely so that the two parts become disconnected. I think in most cases the damage has been minimal, shredding a drive belt, but obviously there is a risk that the loose supercharger part of the pulley could hit equipment in that region.

You can find info on various forums but here's a case from this forum: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/crankshaft-pulley-broken-destroyed-the-belts-grrr.361503/

 

[ninjag]

No. On the gen 1 gearbox there is an external pressure line & filter 8K0 317 823, as well as the main filter 0B5 325 060. In gen 1 the pressure filter was deleted and the main filer became a service item.

But there is a secondary cold air intake for this airbox. Since it is not used for the S4/S5 (I'm not sure which model uses it) it is blanked off. The standard mod is to drill out this circle which allows more cold air from the front. I'd be surprised if a hole at the top makes much difference to sound.

The crank pulley is in two parts fused together with a flexible polymer. According to Audi this "rubber buffer" acts as a "shared torsion vibration damper" for better "resonance damping at low engine speeds and also full throttle" in isolating the supercharger drive from the auxiliaries. Unfortunately the polymer can crack over time and there have been cases where it has failed completely so that the two parts become disconnected. I think in most cases the damage has been minimal, shredding a drive belt, but obviously there is a risk that the loose supercharger part of the pulley could hit equipment in that region.

You can find info on various forums but here's a case from this forum: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/crankshaft-pulley-broken-destroyed-the-belts-grrr.361503/

Thanks for that re. filter. Interesting about the air box mod as well, I might look at that.