Current Draw draining battery

[RLQ1234]

Hi Guys,

I’m having some issues with my battery draining on my 2011 A3 8P 2.0 TDI.

I have measured the current draw with a multimeter in series across the negative battery terminal and it is 0.24A but when I pull out fuse ‘F12’ the current draw drops to 0.04A.

F12 fuse relates to ‘diagnostic module’ on one website and on another it is ‘control module for CAN data transfer (gateway).

I don’t have any idea what these are and cannot find much info on them online so am hoping one of you can help me by telling me what this fuse is actually for and how I can get rid of the current draw from it.

Will I need to replace the module? Or is it more simple or difficult than that?

Attached are some pictures of current draw with the fuse in and then taken out

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thank you in advance

RLQ1234

 

[LEE69]

My can gateway went too, took out the Bluetooth module or visa versa :/

It's behind the glovebox, clips in next to the heater blower and cost me £10 for a new one, copied the old coding in vcds and transferred it to the new one.

 

[RLQ1234]

@LEE69 Thank you for your reply mate

so do you mean that my ‘gateway’ has gone too which is what is causing the current draw on the battery?

I haven’t got any other issues with anything not working, just that the battery went completely dead after a week or so of not running the engine.

 

[LEE69]

It could be gone, mine had similar issues. A week isn't a lot if the car is used for good length journeys regularly

 

[RLQ1234]

Ok mate cool, yeah I normally use it every day and it’s fine, but I went away for just over a week and it was completely dead.

Did you have fuse f12 as the one drawing the current on your car then?

Also how do I get the coding for it?

 

[LEE69]

Looking back I'm sure mine was the same F12 as others don't relate to my issue
You need to find someone with vcds There is a map on here but on facebook ask on here https://www.facebook.com/groups/vcdsusersuk/

 

[RLQ1234]

Ah ok mate, where did you get the replacement from? Do you know what it’s called or do I have to have the old one off first?

ok cheers for that will take a look

 

[LEE69]

ebay my part number was 1K0907530K but you need the hardware number to match what is on yours easy to pop out the glove box and see it, but you need vcds and they can pull the info too. Your looking for this behind the glovebox

 

[RLQ1234]

Sorry for taking forever to reply, have been at work all week.

took to glovebox our just now and took a pic of my one and the replacement I bought on eBay shown below.

When the replacement arrives, what do I do? Will I need to remove the old one for the replacement to be re coded?

sorry for all the questions, just don’t wanna **** it up as I need the car for work haha

Thank you for all your help tho mate, really appriciate it

 

[LEE69]

Take the car to someone with vcds or odis. They will copy the coding on the old one and transfer it to the new one, 1o minute job if that

No bother mate, that's what the forums are for.

 

[RLQ1234]

@LEE69
Hi mate, sorry I took so long to reply,

I have got the new module, put it on but the current draw is still there so I don’t think it is the module that’s the issue.

Got any other ideas about what it could be

 

[LEE69]

Damn!!

You just need to pull each fuse to fine when the draw stops, That's the only way. Don't forget the one at the end of the dash too. I'm not 100% but I think there is some under the dash, which means removing the plastic

 

[RLQ1234]

It’s still that same fuse that I pull out that gets rid of the draw.

Even with the new module connected, I pull F12 and the draw drops by like 200mA

So frustrating, ****** module cost me £35 too haha.

just not sure where to go from here because that fuse relates to that CAN module but it just hasn’t made a difference unfortunately