Edgar's A4 B7 2.0TFSI BT Build

Waiting on parts to arrive overnight from japan so installed the shift linkage upgrade from JHM. Figured it’s the best time since the engine is out and the linkage is easy to access. Hopefully I can tell them difference when everything is back in.



Also wrote Apikol and email. I think I’m missing a part from my transmission mount but we’ll see what they say. I don’t feel like spending another $90 on this thing but I’m sure it’s incomplete. If anyone looking at this thread has one please let me know what yours looks like.



Should get some more things in the mail this week and if I’m lucky I can start getting everything back together by this weekend.


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Dropped off the head a few days ago to get Ferrea valves, titanium springs and retainers, and Integrated Engineering valve stem seals installed. It didn’t come back as quick as I thought it would so I decided to take the front subframe off and install these 034 steel bushings. What a pain. You have to grind away some metal on every bushing holder to get the plates to fit. Wheel see how it all feels when the car is back together. Without a doubt there will be more vibrations felt because the stock ones were rubber but I want to see if the car feels more planted in the corners and what not. We’ll see in another week or two when I can get the car back together.




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Put the subframe back on with the new bushing, mounts thingys. The engine mount mount was cracked. I saw it the other day and ordered a new one and put everything back on. Here’s the cracked one. Would have never noticed it if I wasn’t dropping the subframe. Interesting.



Got my Apikol trans mount bushings in today and my oil pump pickup tube, the newer revision. Easy day. Still waiting on my bottom end and my head so I can put it all back in. The car has been sitting so long that a bird keeps trying to build a nest in it. I’ve evicted it twice now. Hopefully it takes the hint.




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Received my new gauge cluster yesterday. Gotta take it to a guy in London that do the programming for the swap now. That won’t be right away but I’m excited anyways.



Replaced the coolant lines while I wait on my parts. One of them looked like it may have swole at some point so better safe than sorry.




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Got the head back from the machine shop.

Ferrea Valves
Integrated Engineering springs, retainers, and valve stems

Still have to wait for the block to come back. Looks like it might be back next week so maybe by next weekend I can drive the car? Here’s to being optimistic.




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Finally got the block back today. Crank and pistons installed and everything lubed up. I’ll start putting everything together this week and hopefully have it on the road Sunday at the latest. Pretty excited.

Also sent United Motorsports and email to see if I can possibly get a custom tune from them. Just sent it on Friday so I’m trying to be patient.




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Started putting the oil pump on then I realized I didn’t have my new oil pump tensioner yet. It arrives today but I couldn’t grab it from the delivery guy so I’ll have to grab it tomorrow. Then I can get the pump and the pan on.

But I started putting the head on with my ARP studs. I started torquing everything down to spec but it felt like I was overtorquing (80 ft lbs) so I’m going to see if someone has a torque wrench I can borrow so I can be more confident and finish torquing it to spec. Put new head gasket on too.




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Coming together some more. Oil pan and other odds and ends on. Head on and torqued to spec as well as the cam girdle with ARP bolts and cams lubed. Also used red gasket sealant to get the oil pan and girdle on good. Cross my fingers for a leak free install. Should be able to get most of the rest of the engine mocked up tomorrow and timing set too. Hopefully be able to drop it on Friday.




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Got the engine and trans together. Torqued things to spec. Put a turbo blanket on. The heat shield over the engine mount needed some convincing though. Used a rubber mallet to get it down. New IABED rear main seal. Should be dropping it in tomorrow and hopefully driving it by he evening.




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Wow, there’s a lot of love gone into this thing (we’ll call it love and not money )

You pushed the stock block pretty hard!

Have you got revision 2 camshafts in there, I think they came out after your car was made and were only in the BUL engine at the time.

Did you change the pilot bearing, i think it took 10hrs to chisel it out aftee the inner race popped out. When the 2nd block went in I just left the old one in
 
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Lol. Thanks. I prefer to call it love too. Makes it easier to justify the spending.

Stock cams. I was under the impression that the only revised cams are Golf R cams but it’s not worth the price of them for me right now.

You helped catch something I overlooked. I don’t know how or why but I don’t have a pilot bearing. I had to take the transmission off and I’ve ordered a new pilot bearing. Should be here in a few days. Guess I won’t get the engine in this weekend.


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Managed to get something done today I guess. After I ordered a pilot bearing I put a my SPC control arms onto the upper perch. I’ll get there fully installed soon as I’m waiting on some other parts to arrive, mainly a bearing and hub assembly since I broke the pinch bolt socket area years ago and never bothered repairing it.

So much for having the car running by the weekend.




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The TFSI pilot bearing is the 22mm if I recall and only takes 2mins to hammer, I mean “drift” it in.

The earlier TfSI inlet camshafts were Revision A and one piece, these are known for being soft and wearing out.
VAG switched K03 cars to Revision B inlet camshafts that were 2 piece and harder
 

Ahhh yes. I do remember reading a discussion about that. The only thing I really worry about is the cam follower. If I do end up replacing the cam or cams I will likely go with the Golf R cam since it’s considered an upgrade. I’d also like to do a cam roller conversion but it’s also an expensive mod.


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Managed to locate a pilot bearing. Apparently Eurocarparts refers to it as a spigot bearing. Go figure.



As a result I was able to get the motor in. Broke the N205 valve. Luckily it wasn’t anything too serious. Did a nice repair which should hold just fine. And if not I’ll replace it but I’m not worried about it right now. Almost had it running. Battery is dead and I stripped the bleed screw for the clutch which is already in a terrible place so now I can’t figure how to get it off. That will be a job for tomorrow and hopefully I’ll be on the road breaking the engine in again.




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Sooooo close. Fluids are in. Clutch is bled. Swapped out the slave cylinder since I had a spare. What a pain that is to do. I spent close to two hours trying to do that swap. It’s ready for a start, just need to jump it tomorrow. It was 9:30 pm when I finished everything up and I’m trying to be a good neighbor so it can wait one more day honestly.




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Thanks Neil!

Pretty disappointing evening. Jumped it and got it started. Began driving it and the engine temp climbed fast so I stopped to burp the coolant and from there I couldn’t get it to start. I’m hoping it’s just a dead battery. I’ll try to get one tomorrow and hope that solves it.


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Short 0:16 clip of the car running after first start yesterday before it stopped running. Gonna diagnose today. Ran codes and I had none so I’ll change the battery and hope that it does the trick.

BTW, turbo blankets stink. I read up on it last night because I was a little worried but I guess it’s normal for them smoke and smell bad for a while.



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Being a bike guy you should always know to keep a spare battery on tender

What break in procedure are you going for?
 
antwan64og said:
Being a bike guy you should always know to keep a spare battery on tender

What break in procedure are you going for?
Click to expand...

Yea. I should have took it out of the car and put it in the tinder but I didn’t think it was going to take so long to get back up and running and I did have it disconnected which I thought would be ok. But you’re right, I always have my bike battery on the tinder.

I’m gonna try to follow this guide somewhat but I’ve already poured synthetic oil in so I’ll have to read up and see how bad that is and if I need to drain it and put conventional in or if it’s just too late. First thing is I have to get the car running so I can take it out and drive it for a little bit. I have a good stretch of road close to me where I can run the engine hard for certain break in periods which I think is part of the mistake I made the first time I built the motor.

https://www.google.com/amp/blog.jepistons.com/how-to-break-in-an-engine?hs_amp=true


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Wow, what an amazing build. not sure if I missed out on reading but did you import your a4 to the uk?
 
Sid2go said:
Wow, what an amazing build. not sure if I missed out on reading but did you import your a4 to the uk?
Click to expand...

Hi. Yea I did. It’s a US spec left hand drive. I paid to bring it here. Couldn’t bare to leave it behind after all the work I had done to it.


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I’m might be taking a gas can and a match to it soon.

I have a no crank, no start problem but I have power. Dash lights come on. Even trying to jump it I get no crank. I’m convinced it’s electrical. I think it might be a relay but I’m guessing to be honest. I plan on going to a junk yard tomorrow and grabbing the 395 and 614 relays from a VW or Audi. If that doesn’t work then maybe I’ll beat in the starter. It starting pouring rain on me so I called it for the night.


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Did you reconnect the earths to the chassis, one by left hand engine mount coming from starter and one behind the cam chain above the coolant flange?
 
neilA4 said:
Did you reconnect the earths to the chassis, one by left hand engine mount coming from starter and one behind the cam chain above the coolant flange?
Click to expand...

Yes to the left hand one. I don’t remember disconnecting the one behind the cam chain. I’ll have to check it out. Car ran for 10-15 minutes before I shut it off. I don’t know why all of a sudden it stopped working all together.


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Welp. Looks like the starter is dead. At least according to my ghetto test. Let’s hope that’s the only problem. New one on the way.




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Didn’t you try bump starting the car?
That would of confirmed if it was only the starter motor at fault.

I regularly feel like dropping an open petrol can on the back seat with a burning oily rag, it’s part if the charm of TFSI ownership

Last week the car randomly wouldn’t start I was about to get the oily rag and then found the battery negative terminal connection had randomly worked its way loose 1200 miles after I fitted it
 
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No. I didn’t even think about that. I didn’t think it was the starter initially so I didn’t try that. Even still, that could be one of a few problems. That’s just one I’ve been able to rule out for now. At least until it arrives.


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Put the new starter on tonight and the car fired up. Drove it around for about 30 minutes trying to break the motor in but then I pull up to the house and the car shuts off on me. Very strange. Couldn’t get it to start back up. I’m not messing with it right now. I’ll troubleshoot tomorrow.


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Changed the oil out today. Started reading and conventional should be used for break in. I did about 15-20 miles on synthetic so I let the car sit a few days and drained the oil. Conventional in along with some Lucas oil additive for break in. Gonna take it tomorrow for a 30-50 mile drive to break it in and then another oil change. I’m trying to do it right so there will be a few oil changes along the way. Some very light gold flakes at the bottom of the pan.



Changed the spark plugs too. They looked overheated so got some new ones and threw them on. Slowly but surely I’ll get this boost turned up.



Oh, almost forgot. New fueling tool. Install might be this Sunday but it came with zero instructions.




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Stupid car. I’m starting to lose patience with it.

Took it out today to break the engine in properly. Pull up to a light and car just dies. Did it the other day in the driveway and I didn’t really think much of it. So I push it over to a gas station, luckily I was next to one and can’t get it to start.

My powers of deduction have led me to believe it’s a failed LPFP. I hear nothing when I open the drivers door and the engine seems like it trying to fire but just won’t go. I’ll have to look into how to test fuel pressure at the rail or at the HPFP but I’m currently waiting for my wife to get here so she can tow me home.

What ****** me off more is that this is a fairly newish pump. It’s the JHM LPFP kit. I immediately complained to them that I’ve been getting P0089 codes ever since I installed their pump. Like immediately after I installed it and they just kind of dismissed after some worthless troubleshooting. I’ll buy a new DW pump tonight, I just have to do some research and make sure it’s the pump before before I do. Maybe the 300 or 450. I think the 450 is capable of E85 if I ever end up doing that.


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I managed to get it started and drove it for about 5o miles so I’ll let it cool down, do another oil change, and maybe install the PM4 to see if that helps. If not, then I’ll buy a new LPFP. I think that maybe the one from JHM was bad from the get go. Hard to say but a new one could definitely tell me.


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It will be something simple, check the wiring harness and that every sensor is plugged in tight to start with.
Most likely its a loose connection like an earth wire, battery wire, alternator power wire/earth, since a failing/intermittent sensor like CPS should throw an error code.

Intermittent issues are hardest to diagnose.

It’s even more of a mine field since you just put the engine back together and back in and there’s numerous possible human errors plus any new hardware could be defective.
 
So installed the PM4 today. Seems to raise the duty cycle to what the RS4 Fuel Controller was. First pic is prior to the PM4 (duty cycle) and second is with. Car seems to start fine-ish now. Time will tell I guess.



Controller is in the trunk and wires in with stock controller but does use the stock controller. I already had an amp running to the trunk so it made some of the wiring pretty easy.



Also changed the oil and filter for the next interval of break in.


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I don’t know how or why but a few nights ago I took the car out for some break in miles and about 45 miles, an hour or so into my drive, the car made a clunk and shut off on me. Couldn’t get the starter to engage. I had managed to coast to a good stopping point and had the wife come tow me home. I had a P0000a and a P0340 so I checked the N205 and it had a tiny bit of oil in the connector. Took things off to check the timing and noticed I was off a tooth. Making it weirder was when I took off the valve cover and the lifters on the exhaust side were laying all over the place and all the exhaust springs were still compressed....and the lifters weren’t touching the cam.



Fast forward to today, I rip the head off because I’m suspicious of bent valves at this point. Suspicion confirmed.



Pistons have some marks on the exhaust side from where they smacked the valves (left side of piston in the picture)




I’m gonna look at cost of replacement parts and consider if it’s worth it to me. Might part the car out. Haven’t decided yet.

I don’t know how it happened. Must have jumped timing because the belt was in tact and still tight. I was pretty sure I had set the timing perfectly when I did it, but who knows.

The cylinder walls looked good which makes feel good about how break in was going up to this point. If anyone has any other guesses of what could have happened it’s worth looking at the theories. I’ll take off the crank gear later this week when I pull the rest of the engine and see anything happened there. Real bummer here.


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That's not good Edgar, to be honest what ever the cause of the damage , it is still more expense to repair and time off the road.
Having been a keen follower of your projects I know you have put a lot of hard work and hours into this , let alone the expense, maybe its time to call time on things.
The question i'd be asking myself now is this, is this really worth doing anymore and are you becoming a slave to it with no real return for all the efforts.
Still your descision and I expect you'll make the right one.

good luck with it chap.
 
I don’t completely disagree with you Rob but I’m exploring the cost of the repair now. It looks like I would only need to replace the exhaust valves which isn’t too bad. The pistons can be sanded down (called the machine shop this morning and I trust what they say) as long as the marks are not at the edge of the pistons or no signs of cracking. They say those pistons can take some abuse.

If I decide to push forward with it I’d like to get to the bottom of why it happened to prevent it from happening again. There are no obvious things to point to right now so I’m stumped. I’ll tear things down a little further and see what I find, if anything at all.

Lastly, I don’t have any other vices. I don’t drink or smoke or buy drugs. I really don’t have anything else I spend money on. It’s just the car, albeit it’s an expensive hobby, it’s the one thing that I really enjoy so I’m a bit emotionally tied to it. It’s testing my emotions lately though.


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Wow, bad luck. This was only 100 miles since the rebuild.
You were lucky it didn’t drop/break a valve.

Worst case scenario the pistons are toast, throw a £600 used stock engine in, run it low boost and/or sell it.
Rob you’re too defeatest anything less than a hole in the block is a minor albeit expensive inconvenience

Unfortunately the number one accessory to a project car is a daily beater to get around in!
 

The pistons aren’t toast. At least they don’t seem to be. I’ll do some light sanding to take off any sharp edges and probably get the exhaust valves replaced and give it one more go. Luckily I have my motorcycle and the weathers been favorable. The car gets one more shot from me and if it fails again it’s a part out.


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