P0192 - Intermittent problem

wrc_corolla

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Just thought I would post this as it took me a day or two to figure out how to fix an intermittent fault on my wifes Audi TT 2.0 TFSI and it might help others.

Basically the car randomly produced a P0192 fault, which then resulted in other faults as well as the car went into safe/limp mode. So after searching the internet for some ideas, nothing that was suggested fixed the problem. The two fuel pressure sensors, one-way valve, high pressure fuel pump, pipes, follower, and metering valve, tank pump and relay were all fine, the wiring harness was also fine, it is pretty well shielded and a pain to get to, if you have this problem I would make the harness your last port of call, since it will take an hour or so to remove the manifold.

So the next culprit may be the connection between the injector harness and the ECU, To get to the ECU harness, you have to remove a bracket which is fixed using 4 anti tamper screws, drilled these out and hey presto, the ECU pins had some corrosion on them. I cleaned the pins (be careful as they are very fragile) used some contact cleaner and the car has been running perfect since. The reason why this problem was such a pain was because it was intermittent, one day the car would be fine, next it wouldn't
 
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Hello bud

Just read your post about the fault you've been experiencing, i too have the same issue but what issues were you experiencing, im wondering if you could help me?

I will be randomly driving and any speed and its as if the the fuel cuts for a split second, before purchasing the car the g247 was replaced and it looks like some wiring has been repaired on the front of the engine i think its possibly linked.

My cars a 2007 a3 with the BWA engine in, wjere abouts is the loom you describe that had the water ingress

Cheers

Shaun
 
Hi Shaun,

The symptoms were sporadic, if you were driving normally, everything would seem normal for maybe a day or two, then there would be a cut in the power maybe for a split second, and the car would either go into limp mode or it would go back to normal. Other times, you would start the car in the morning and it would splutter and misfire and then enter limp mode for maybe a few miles and then it would go back to normal running again.

I am guessing you have a code reader which has pointed you to the fuel system? Given the age of your car I would first go and have a look at the ECU pins, I have attached a couple of pics of bad pins, it is subtle in the pics but you can see some oxidation of the copper tips, i.e. the green tips

Pins 1

Pins 2


If you have an ECU harness bracket like I have on mine, see pic below, you have to drill out the bolts holding the harness bracket to the ecu, a nice drill bit for this is an M42 steel drill bit, it will go through them like butter.

Ecu


The last thing is the injector harness, which contains the wiring for the high pressure fuel sensor. I went down the road of checking that, see a pic below, I would say that it is very unlikely that this will be your problem as it is nicely protected and clipped in conduit, and on my one, the wiring was in perfect condition, below is a pic of this harness. If you really want to check this harness, then do it after you have checked everything else because it takes a couple of hours to remove the inlet manifold.

Harness
 
Thanks for the reply mate, the faults you describe has sort of happened to me theres been 3 times its not wanted to start, spluttering and popping etc, when i got the car it had loads of faulta but i read a post after changing the g247 sensor, the ecu would loosevan earth feed which was pin 14 iirc on the ecu i had the ecu out and there was no ingress but will check again, all i did to cure the problem was gave the ecu and earth and all was well... Whats the inlet like to get off as i have a new flapper motor to fit and blank the swirl flaps out, thete wiribg at the front of engine thats been tampered with comes from behind the inlet
 
The inlet it straight forward, it just takes a little time, maybe a 2-4 hours, there is one awkward bolt, with restricted access, which holds the manifold stay to the block.