Leaking cam seal

[ADs3]

Ok it turns out I have a leaking inlet cam seal. The seal in question is the black ptfe type, being replaced with a rubber one.

I haven't a seal tool, I'd like to know if it's a good idea to remove cam cap slide off old seal & replace with new then just tighten cap back up?

 

[superkarl]

Ok it turns out I have a leaking inlet cam seal. The seal in question is the black ptfe type, being replaced with a rubber one.

I haven't a seal tool, I'd like to know if it's a good idea to remove cam cap slide off old seal & replace with new then just tighten cap back up?

Should be fine to do that.
If I recall they can be tricky, but I think I fitted PFTE seals to mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ADs3]

Refitted cam seal, put a small amount of oil on it to help it slide on.
Still getting oil drip from bottom of engine on cam side, exhaust cam seal is fine.
In the pic the seal where it sits on the cam has a small lip that protrudes outwards, should this be tucked back on itself or doesn't that make a difference?

 

[<tuffty/>]

That will leak if its flipped like that

<tuffty/>

 

[ADs3]

Checked it against a spare seal I have & it's not flipped, its got a outta edge lip to it that I though maybe should be tucked back but that's not possible.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Ah yeah... can see its the outer lip now...

<tuffty/>

 

[ADs3]

Bit confused to where this leak is coming from now

 

[ADs3]

Given up trying to find the cause of the leak, booked the car into a vw/audi specialist near me.
Interested the see what they find as the engine has been rebuilt.....

 

[ADs3]

Tested oil pressure today and it's sky high! 60 psi at idle & rockets to 100+psi with a touch of the throttle.

Didn't get time to investigate further but after a search for high oil pressure I'm guessing it could be the oil pressure release valve stuck closed causing high pressure & forcing oil past the seals.

Can this valve just be removed & cleaned out? On the diagram it just looks like a spring & piston valve

 

[hendo#1]

Was your engine hot or cold?

Cold pressures are much higher than hot obviously.

My car (with the gauge you have) would show 80 - 90psi on a cold idle, which would quickly come down to around 30psi once warmed up properly IIRC.

Cruising was generally anywhere from 40-60psi, revs dependant obvs.

Where have you got the sender mounted?

 

[ADs3]

It was cold, I realised this later after speaking to someone about it.......think I'm just paranoid due to this oil leak.

I've mounted the sensor in the filter housing where the test port is, was there meant to be a m10x1 to 1/8 npt adaptor in amongst everything I got from you? I didn't realise this till after I'd fitted the sensor

 

[hendo#1]

Yeah thats the same place I had it.

There was no adaptor supplied that I remember of.

As you have found 1/8th NPT is almost the perfect taper fit for a M10x1 hole.

NPT - 27 threads per 1”. Approx 10.3mm OD.

M10 thread - 25.4 threads per 1”.

Obviously you are only threeading in approx 8mm so the difference in threads is almost unnoticable.

I just used a tiny amount of high strength loctite stud lock on it for security.

It is very strong stuff so only needs a tiny amount.

 

[ADs3]

Yeah exactly that, you can feel it tighten as it winds in. I wasn't overly worried about it tbh, just that someone commented it should have a adaptor.

I went with ptfe tape.....

Oil pressure did drop down to about 30 at idle once warmed up so that sits well seeing as yours was around 30 at idle too.

The gauges do look good, added the wmi LED to the pod too, just need to refit my glove box and I'm done

 

[hendo#1]

I ****** wish I hadnt sold them! Looks good.

I had my WMI LED in one of the spare blanks below your gauges but had to remove it as it was very bright and blinding during night driving.