Low oil pressure 2.0 TFSI and no compression

Jack Kelly

265 BHP 2.0 TFSI Saloon
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Hi all,

Last night I was driving along and the oil pressure light came on, followed by a bag of spanners sound a second later, similar to this:

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/neb1413/media/306 Gti-6/089BBB09-EADF-409F-B049-8C94683B9D47_zpsp6u6wmb3.mp4.html

The car shut off about 5 seconds later.

This morning I went to restart it and it won't start. When trying to start, the car sounds like it has no compression - see video below.



Not 100% on engine code, but it has 220 bhp stock. 112k, 55 reg.

Oil levels in the engine are fine.

A day before, a mechanic changed Cambelt, Cambelt tensioner, water pump, aux belt, and my right Headlight. Could these works be the cause of any of this, or is it a massive coincidence?

Is it possible the cambelt wasn't tensioned properly and skipped a tooth? If so possibly looking at valve damage. However, why would the oil pressure light come on in this instance?

Thanks
Jack
 
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That's not good Jack,
Could just be coincidence as these engines can be a bit unpredictable , some just go tit's up without any prior warning other than a low oil light.
Could possibly something the guy did or didn't do but without seeing the cause it would be hard to say.
Possibly one of several causes inc oil pump, maybe cam chain tensioner in the mix aswell.

hope you get it sorted but it may not be cheap.
 
Yes it's not good at all.

When it works it's a great engine, but with PCV, oil pressure issues, water pumps etc. it does have a few liabilities.

I'm just hoping this mechanic has done something wrong so I can push it back onto him! It is a big coincidence that within an hour of these repairs it goes wrong.
 
I need to get it back to the garage - does anyone know if you can tow the car if it has Quattro.

Assuming with all four wheels on the ground and spinning together it's fine?
 
I need to get it back to the garage - does anyone know if you can tow the car if it has Quattro.

Assuming with all four wheels on the ground and spinning together it's fine?
Yes, You can tow it.

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So, update and it's not good.

The cam belt and tensioner are all fine, the issue is almost certainly the cam chain or cam chain tensioner at the back of the engine snapping.

We had a look through the viewing hatch on the Cambelt and moved the car. We could see the Cambelt moving as the car moved, but the cam shaft viewable through the oil filler cap doesn't move.

We can see the Cambelt moving, the cog on the first cam shaft moving (although not the actual cam shaft as this is covered up by the engine), but we can't see the other cam moving.

Next steps are to strip the engine down and take a look at the damage. Most likely bent valves and repaired/new head required.

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Another update now the whole engine has been taken apart. There is a lot of damage and lots to replace, which would cost well over £3,000 if getting new parts.

My mechanic is gonna do it in between other jobs and use second hand parts where required, but new parts will be needed in most cases.

This is a list of the main stuff which needs doing:
Pretty much all valves are damaged, so new valves needed
2x new cams as one of the sprockets has lost a tooth, so need to get two new cams as you don't generally replace just one
Housing on the back of the engine over the chain is cracked - this is a £500 quid part new, any ideas on where to source a second hand one would be great
New head gasket
New valve stem sills. They are rubber and have worn away over time, meaning oil is being burned off during combustion
New VVT
New cam chain
New cam tensioner

Any thoughts on potential other (cheaper) routes to getting back on the road would be appreciated. Pointers on extra bits to replace while in the engine would be fantastic.

Reconditioned engines are similar prices, but I think it's better to repair the engine I have so I know where I stand. Better that than buy an engine sold as reconditioned, which hasn't had the proper work done to it.
 
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Final update, engine repaired for a total cost of £1,675. The work was done around other things to keep costs down and took 5 weeks. The following parts were replaced:

Exhaust camshaft
Inlet camshaft
2 inlet valves
16 valve stem seals
Head gasket, cylinder head bolts
Crankshaft pulley bolts
Rear housing chain cover and gasket (second-hand cover as very expensive new and just a cover)
Timing gear retaining bolt, timing chain tensioner
Temperature switch housing sealing ring
Catalytic converter front and rear gaskets
Exhaust front pipe fixing bolts
Servo pump sealing ring
High-pressure fuel pump plunger
Fuel rail bolts
Spark plugs

Very expensive bill but hopefully engine will be good for a long time now. Just a case of running it in and keeping an eye on things. 750 miles in and all good so far.
 
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