- Joined
- Feb 4, 2016
- Messages
- 2,056
- Reaction score
- 731
- Points
- 113
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928I watched him do it all that comes up Is still 17748.. he resets it start it back up boom code comes straight back up
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928I watched him do it all that comes up Is still 17748.. he resets it start it back up boom code comes straight back up
I watched him do it all that comes up Is still 17748.. he resets it start it back up boom code comes straight back up
He said he checked it about 3 times making sure it was all lined up he told me he's worked on many 1.8t seat Leon's etc.. he seems certain it's the sensor I'm just worried that once the sensor is replaced.. the problem would still occur like the Car is worse in performance and starting now he said the is was advanced tooth he also said I shouldn't be have oil in my pancake pipe and the pipe leading back to the turbo..Check they have timed the cams right... not seen this code come up before on cam to cam but based on the garages previous efforts I wouldn't put it past them to have this wrong...
Not knowing how the current guy did it I would check physical TDC of both cams and bottom end in case somethings up... I wouldn't rely on the timing marks at this point... I would also check the cam sensor trigger wheel position in case they took that off for some reason and not fitted it right and I would check the cam to cam to make sure they set that right... I would double check everything...
Its plausible that the sensor is faulty but would expect an implausible signal or open/closed circuit type code..
<tuffty/>
If you drop it in thurs morn I can whip the top off geeza but closed circuit on cam position sensor tells me 99% it's sensor but we won't fit it until I'm 100% positive its that fellaCheck they have timed the cams right... not seen this code come up before on cam to cam but based on the garages previous efforts I wouldn't put it past them to have this wrong...
Not knowing how the current guy did it I would check physical TDC of both cams and bottom end in case somethings up... I wouldn't rely on the timing marks at this point... I would also check the cam sensor trigger wheel position in case they took that off for some reason and not fitted it right and I would check the cam to cam to make sure they set that right... I would double check everything...
Its plausible that the sensor is faulty but would expect an implausible signal or open/closed circuit type code..
<tuffty/>
Closed circuit? thats not the code you mentioned? incorrect correlation is timing error between cams and crank... This is 'typically' due to something out of position...
At this point I am not saying its not the sensor as I have seen some bizarre shizzle over the years and anything is possible but its a new on one me...
Here is food for thought..
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7230221-Mk1-TT-Cam-sensor-error
I'd still check the condition and position of the sensor trigger wheel..
Hope it is the sensor though... you get your car fixed and we learn something new
<tuffty/>
Can't imagine they changed it... this is in reference to the trigger wheel... early AEB 1.8t's had a single window trigger... later 1.8t's (such as the AUM in question here) will have a 4 window one as standard..I'm wondering if this has anything to do with it, it on the ross tech site,
- When found in the 1.8T engine (possibly others too), check to make sure the correct G40 is installed (single gap versus 4 gap).
Can't imagine they changed it... this is in reference to the trigger wheel... early AEB 1.8t's had a single window trigger... later 1.8t's (such as the AUM in question here) will have a 4 window one as standard..
Only reason I can think of for removing it is to change the cam seals... if thats the case its most likely the correct trigger wheel but could have easily put it on wrong even though its keyed
<tuffty/>
Can't imagine they changed it... this is in reference to the trigger wheel... early AEB 1.8t's had a single window trigger... later 1.8t's (such as the AUM in question here) will have a 4 window one as standard..
Only reason I can think of for removing it is to change the cam seals... if thats the case its most likely the correct trigger wheel but could have easily put it on wrong even though its keyed
<tuffty/>
Cam pulley can only fit one way (although probably wouldn't stop some people from trying lol)I've read a few where the cam sprocket is on back to front but I'm pretty sure the belt won't run true if that had happened, it's definitely a strange problem. Could the cam chain itself have stretched or would that be a different code.
Does it have the genuine cam chain tensioner fitted, some cheap pattern ones bind inside throwing everything out of sync.
InnitWondering if their ham fisted mechanical ventures bent the trigger wheel now that would cause some problems, I'd love to get my hands on this car to find out whats wrong with it.
He told me he lined it up with gearbox side, also replacing sensor tomorrow so if it not that I don't know what's next.. but he also said before he fits the sensor he is going to check the chain, boost pressure regulator and the actuatorin my case the timing belt tooth out correlation error only came up every 100 miles or so.
totally unrelated to your timing belt - is the N75 unplugged for some reason. that runs with no noticeable boost - but also throws up an error.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928
- camshaft sensor is a cheap easy thing to do yourself (make sure you get the correct G40 though according to this wiki)
they is a way of checking TDC on the crank at the gearbox end too - which if different to the TDC using a wooden spoon etc points to a different issue (bent rods maybe?)
I'm hoping he checks the pressure tomorrow.. will update once done.A compression test would maybe throw some light on the situation, poor compression=difficult to start and poor performance.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm hoping he checks the pressure tomorrow.. will update once done.
If it's bad he might have to take the head off.. so far I've paid £2170 on This Car and I've had it less than 3months when I bought it, it was amazing to drive
That's just repair bills I paid £1200 for this car and paid £2170 I should of just spent £3000 on a carIs that including buying it or just repairs and maintenance
I will show him This thread in the morning see what he thinks, I've only heard good things about this mechanic that's why I went to him but I'll have to wait and see.Cam pulley can only fit one way (although probably wouldn't stop some people from trying lol)
Chains can and do stretch but it would have to be on its last legs to move it out enough to throw a code... never seen it before but who knows
Pattern tensioners vary immensely... I use a GSF one as its half the price of an OE one... but GSF supply whatever they get their hands on... I think I was lucky but have seen a few GSF ones fail... they look different to the one I used so different supplier different rubbish..
I still think there is something not put back together correctly... if it was fine before and all thats been done is two valves changed then my money is on an assembly error in the head...
I sure hope they put the cam caps back on in the right order too...
<tuffty/>
Nope it has 120k good bodywork for its age fsh I thought I was getting a good deal until my valves smashedincredibly cheap - does it have 300,000 miles or something?
No I really didn't, I thought it would have some problems but nothing major£1200 is cheap Bet you didn't expect to spend that much on fixing it up . I paid £2700 3 years ago for mine and have easily spent that again on it and not gained a single bhp and It's not moved for the last year
Buying the cars the cheap bit with these
No the belt went slack one day when I was driving down the a12 and shattered the valve.. the guy who previously had the car spent thousands on it so I know it was well looked after just had to happen to me...Is it possible the timing belt had previously snapped? And that's why it was so cheap? Or was the seller totally ill-informed in the last 2 years prices are all about the same average 3k 4-5 for a good one. They are a few for under 2k but they are sheds (like mine - but I bought the 1st one as usual - shiney things)
Tuffty, here's that thread I read regarding cam sprocket on back to front, it does fit but not properly.Cam pulley can only fit one way (although probably wouldn't stop some people from trying lol)
Chains can and do stretch but it would have to be on its last legs to move it out enough to throw a code... never seen it before but who knows
Pattern tensioners vary immensely... I use a GSF one as its half the price of an OE one... but GSF supply whatever they get their hands on... I think I was lucky but have seen a few GSF ones fail... they look different to the one I used so different supplier different rubbish..
I still think there is something not put back together correctly... if it was fine before and all thats been done is two valves changed then my money is on an assembly error in the head...
I sure hope they put the cam caps back on in the right order too...
<tuffty/>
I really hope so mateHere's that thread I read regarding cam sprocket on back to front, it does fit but not properly.
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5-garage/215332-my-camshaft-sprocket-backwards.html
Your car should be back to normal now Mike![]()
I really hope so,the mechanic said he's retiming the everything as we speakThere was a user on here last year who got the cam signal error, he swore it wasn't mechanically out of alignment and blamed sensors saying he'd done loads of these motors.
Cut the story short, after weeks of frustration the cam timing was out, lol.
Just saw your update, that will be it!!!!
Have seen this were someone doesn't accont for the travel of the tensioner which is why I mentioned in a previous post you align the exhaust cam mark as this is a fixed point and then wind the inlet cam back to allow the top of the tensioner to fully extend... thats where you then do the 16 roller alignment as its the correct position for both cam timing marks to align with the mark on the cam caps...I don't know if its manufacturing tolerances or stretching but these can be querky.
Perfectly aligned until it's turned and then its a tooth out.
The only "fix" on my friends passat was align it a tooth out and once turned it was perfect.
Triple check for contact if you do that method before you start it, lol
Have seen this were someone doesn't accont for the travel of the tensioner which is why I mentioned in a previous post you align the exhaust cam mark as this is a fixed point and then wind the inlet cam back to allow the top of the tensioner to fully extend... thats where you then do the 16 roller alignment as its the correct position for both cam timing marks to align with the mark on the cam caps...
<tuffty/>
Mainly emissions but... on big turbo conversions you can get them to spool 500-1000 rpm sooner keeping it open..The cam chain tensioner is a load of ****** really, was it a design exercise or something? It's for emission purposes (or so I read) as any adjustment is back to zero in the upper rev range.
It's not as if VAG are really bothered about emissions is it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mainly emissions but... on big turbo conversions you can get them to spool 500-1000 rpm sooner keeping it open..
On K03 turbo's engines the VVT is only used during the warm up cycle... on K04 turbo's engines its used once warm too but only across a small rev range
<tuffty/>
Wideband K04 turbo'd engines with VVT don't have SAI... ironically though K03 cars doThanks for the info, sort of belt and braces approach with the SAIP system as well. I clearly have more to learn on the 1.8t yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wideband K04 turbo'd engines with VVT don't have SAI... ironically though K03 cars do
<tuffty/>
Slightly different engine on the inline stuff... I am talking about transverse 06a engines... inline was 058 (old valver) blocks then 06b (a variation of )I kinda ended up on the A3 platform via Tapatalk , I had a Vw Passat 1.8t and have now an A4 so never seen any of these with K04, they never had them from factory did they? 190 hp version had two smic and different injectors more boost and obviously software but still K03-23.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk