Just got in from a road trip

Didn't work, so guess I've got to fix the door microswitch first.

Found out why steering wheel turns when accelerating! Will post quick video in a minute.

All control arms seem nice tight.
Pinch bolt is seized solid. So will leave that and try and drop the strut from the top mount.
 
Well made some progress today. Without any hiccups for once!!!

3 hours from start to finish and that included a chat with the local Bobby and a cup of tea.

20160614 110558


20160614 112435


20160614 130141


Before
20160609 154421


After
20160614 131844


Before
20160609 154408


After
20160614 131855


My boot is full of two tool kits, trolley jack, 2 axle stands and other tools. So a bit of weight in there. That's in all pics.

Just the O/S tie rod and outer cv joint to do.

Oh and source the oil leak.

Then it's sorted mechanically.

Just the cosmetic things to work on thereafter. Oh and my central locking, but still waiting for my laptop to be repaired and sent back to me.
 
Forgot to mention, I had a go at freeing off the pinch bolt yesterday with a big hammer, some WD40 and a 16mm spanner.

It was seized solid yesterday. Left the nut undone by a couple of turns. Hit the top part where the pinch bolts sits hard with a lump hammer. Separated the gaps a little and sprayed liberally with WD40. Did both sides and left them with nut undone.

Drove the car this morning to town to pick up a prescription and drove back.

To remove the struts I didn't touch the pinch bolts or any control arm.

I removed the ****** tricky covers near the three top bolts for the top arm plate (in engine bay) and just undid the 2 13mm nuts slightly.

Put one spring compressor on the spring and tightened up enough until the lower part of the shock cleared bottom arm (after removing the bolt). Also removed top bolt from c-link on both sides to help lower bottom arms a touch.

Once the shock bottom was free from lower arm, removed the nuts and the spring and shock are free.

True Haynes style.....refitting is reversal of removal.

However, after piecing all the shocks/springs back in, I did decide to tackle the pinch bolt in case I need to remove them in the future. Both bolts were now spinning with a spanner. Bonus. So I removed both bolts.

Replaced one bolt with a spare one I got with a Meyle top arm kit. Cleaned the other bolt up and cleaned the hole where the bolt sits. Applied shed loads of copper grease to the holes and bolts, refitted and torqued up. I even filled the groves full of copper grease too. So hopefully if they need to come out in the next year or so, they should do with ease.
 
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aye it'll be fine, but i did similar to you with copper grease and a year later it was pretty stuck again!

Since then i've always used CV grease
 
Does anyone know the part number for centre caps for my 16" speedlines.

Or the correct size so I can get some aftermarket ones off bay of evil.

Thanks.
 
4B0601165C

£20 new from the dealer and doesnt look to be any cheap ones on the go.

Be better off buying some tidy 17's
 
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Aye. I've some 17"s for sale. Off my Touran. Ideally they needs spacers due to et54.

If they sell, I'll source some other 17's for the Purple shed and put those Speedlines on the Derv shed.
 
Found the oil leak. It's the oil breather pipe that bolts to the block. Cracked on one side.

Trying to source another as the oil is coming out at a good rate.
 
They appear to be available in the aftermarket, try jason at all german?

Topran 110 339 appears to match up with the VAG number ending in M
 
Jason doesn't stock them.

A Topran dealer doesn't stock them.

Audi want £53.74 for a piece of plastic tubing!!!

I must just fit a preface lift pipe and do away with the white cylinder??
 
Found out its an oil separator.

Ordered a pre face lift one for now so I can use the car and keep looking for a correct one to fit at a later date.
 
According to Topran, the pre face lift one fits the avg passats and sharans until 2000.

Screenshot 20160616 114348


That's the part I've ordered anyway. At least I can use the car without leaving a snail trail everywhere of oil.
 
A little update....

I fitted the early breather pipe as above. That's stemmed the oil leak. Still get an occasional drip Mark on road sometimes when parked up but nothing like it was before.

Back to the central locking..... when I unlock the car and start it, the interior lights stay on for about 30 seconds before dimming out. Normally, this should happen when you lock the car right?

I need to get vcds onto the car but working long days at the moment so it will be Friday before I can look at it.

N/S/R caliper has started to stick. It's the handbrake lever on the rear which is stiff. Tried wd40 but not making much difference. New caliper time?

She is (according to dis) averaging 55mpg out in the hilly areas. Getting upto 63mpg when driving near the city on flat roads. Not bad if it's accurate. Need to brim and check. But I need to replace a broken fuel tank strap before I dare brim it lol

I get a tick noise and one of my manifold bolts is loose. Looks like threads in head are stripped. :-(
 
when you unlock the car the lights should stay on for 30 seconds, but should go out immediately when you switch the ignition on. I presume the pump isnt getting the ignition live signal? Do the electric windows work?
 
Electric windows work fine apart from o/s/r.

Also, I lock the car using the lock button on drivers door. My door will only lock if I press the button and close it quickly. If I slowly.close the door, drivers door remains unlocked. Wondering if some.dodgy wires in the door shut part. Will have a nosy later.

Out of curiosity, do.you know which wire colour is the ignition live to the pump?
 
Cant lock the drivers door when the door is open, the mechanism doesnt allow it. I guess when you shut it quickly, the vacuum pump is still applying vacuum to the line and thus the door will lock.

Ignition lives are usually black or black with a stripe. I can check the wiring scheme later though.

If the windows are working though, the pump surely must see the live, as the windows are only activated with the ignition being switched on.

Are you starting the car and leaving the door open? That will keep the light on until you shut the door?
 
Windows are working as they should be.

Door is closed and I'm driving and the lights are still on. Go out after 30 seconds.

That makes sense with the door locking then.

Wonder if it's to do with the door mechanism where the micro switches are then?

Do you know the part number of the mech? Might look to buy a new one as I have a brand new key and chip here that needs to be programmed too.
 
Right, I have bit the bullet and decided to keep and fix this SHED. Why did I bother? Lol.

So what have I replaced since I bought her?

Here goes;

Full Cylinder head rebuild.
Headgasket + bolts.
Timing belt kit + waterpump.
Oil and filters.
New brake pads all round.
Rear discs.
Two almost new calipers.
All shocks and springs.
Some control arms.
Rear axle bushes.
Central locking pump.
Rear view mirror.
Battery.
Front wipers.
Both front outer cv joints.
Front abs sensor.
Fuel tank strap.
A brake light bulb.

So, this so called cheap car......well!

I've just finished doing the last cv joint and abs sensor. (No more abs light on dash now! Yipppeeeee)

She is booked in for an MOT tomorrow.

It will fail on headlight aim (even though I do ask if they will do these before an mot, the tester never does!)

So all being well, will be back on the road after a month off.

Then it's time to source another Audi. Probably a 2.7 v6 tdi. But most likely a 2.5 v6. A6 Avant variant.

If not one of those, then a Nissan X trail 2.2 dci.

Will be selling the red A4 and running the purple shed into the ground with all the time, money and effort spent on that!
 
So, she did pass her mot back on the 7th Sept. Happy days. Been driving ok since, apart from the turbo scare. Now sorted.

Found the issue with the OSR window. The plug that connects to the motor has corrosion inside and two pins snapped off. Purchased a 2nd hand motor and plug with 10" of loom. Is it easy to fit? Just a case of taping the window shut, so when i remove the motor it doesn't drop?

Still bugging the life out of me with the central locking not working. What part tells the system that the key is locking the door? is the microswitch in the door key barrel or is it on the door catch mechanism?

Dan
 
Also, all my bits have arrived to retro-fit cruise control. Kufatec loom and genuine stalk. So that'll be a fun afternoon sometime soon me thinks.
 
Parted ways with the purple shed. Only due to being offered my friends Passat for peanuts but it does require a new heater core.

Still have the red shed though.
 
Great reading Dan, and I thought I'd done a fair amount to my "cheap" B5 lol.

Do you know the part number of the pfl oil breather pipe?

Andy
 
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