Aaaaargghh !my continuing woes !!

shuviteer

shuviteer

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My woes with these cars are getting to me, lol.
Right, today had a pig of a job swapping over the mirror from the black saloon to the silver avant. Why didn't Audi just bolt them to the door behind the cover, why was it a door panel off to get at the fixings are wiring ?Then had a mess about swapping inner bit to the correct coloured outer.
Anyway, got that done and replaced the unit in the door that is supposed to be for the central locking, still doesn't work !!More on that later.
We ( or should I say John) then started on the wiper arm on the drivers side as it kept coming of the moving arm under ( yes more faffing around ) all the plastic scuttle bits that you have to remove the wiper arms to be able to remove them. So after John had messed about doing it twice (saloon and avant )the small connecting bar was removed from each and swapped over..............................then everything put back. I now have a working drivers window wiper again and in this weather I need it.
Now the saloon is an X reg and the avant is a Y reg (reg in Jan) so the engine bay should look the same........... but doesn't. So the TDI Tuning box that has been removed from the saloon can't (at the moment ) be put onto the avant as I can't find the main wiring bit that it plugs into !!?? They are both 1.9 tdi's
Now back to the central locking problem. After changing the unit in the boot area, my windows then started working but the central locking wouldn't. It wont work or lock from the buttons on the fob, but loks the door via the key and the alarm lights come on and flash. Now after 3-4 minutes the hazards flash (thank god the siren doesn't got off like it does, same problem, on the saloon) for about 2 minutes then stop. If I unlock it but don't switch the ignition on then they go off again until it is fired up then every thing is fine. So today that box with electrical connectors in the door was swapped over and nothing has changed.
Are Audi's like my Volvo S40 T4 where it has to be plugged in to a computer to reset everything, or is it something else ? I f it does, then is there anyone near me (just south of Leeds in Batley )who could do it, as this is really the thing that is now the only problem worth worrying about. Cheers Steve.
 
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Door panels off to remove the mirror? dont think so?

The little black cover pops off and then you unplug the connector behind it an undo the bolt?

What unit in the door did you replace and what isnt working on the central locking?
 
Thats the controller for the door lock heater... Nothing to do with the central locking.

The central locking is controlled by a pump mounted in the boot. It uses vacuum and pipes to lock and unlock the doors. Do you hear the vacuum pump running when you lock or unlock the car? If you've changed the pump, did you swap it for the correct part number?
 
Your Y-reg car might have a PD engine rather than a VE engine, if so your tuning box is no use. Check the engine code in the boot.

Also, facelift cars are programmed NOT to fire the central locking if you unlock the car with the key. So if you havent programmed the remotes into the new pump, the CL probably wont work. Have you tried locking or unlocking the car using the button on the inside of the drivers door after you've turned the ignition on?

The lights flashing is likely the alarm going off, which it will ALWAYS do if you open the car with the key, and it will then stop when you turn the ignition on. It flashing after you lock the car is a seperate issue, and you can use VCDS to find out what has triggered it, but lets not confuse matters too much until you get the locking working.

This thread is a bit confusing as you've made a new post rather than continuing the old post that had the existing info in it. Try to stick to this one thread with all the related issues, makes it easier to follow whats been done and what hasnt.
 
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As above get vcds on the car maybe turn the siren on to see whats what and see if it goes of after locking with the key, CL issue may be a shattered impellor you should still hear the motor running if its shattered, if you cant here anything then try a new key fob battery and coding.
 
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try using the buttons from the saloon they will still be programed to the pump.
( this works on the early cars )
as Kev has said above. youre y reg will be the PD engine and x reg will be the VE engine so youre plug in box is useless ( or even more useless than it was before )
 
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jbh said:
try using the buttons from the saloon they will still be programed to the pump.
Click to expand...

Yeh, if hes still got the remotes that are paired to that pump he can just swap them over onto his existing keys and wont need to program anything :)
 
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Thanks for the replies folks.
To clear things up a bit, hopefully, the saloon key is not the fob with buttons on, just an ordinary key, but did close the central locking when it had the original boot pump on which is currently on the avant.
The avant boot pump didn't work, but the previous owner had purchased one and when fitted the windows started to work, but central locking didn't. That is why I swapped them over but as it was still the same I never bothered switching them back again. I will try that tomorrow as the saloon wont be coming back until tonight as it is in Wakefield.................well, I am not Ben Hur, I can only drive one at a time, lol.
If it needs reprogramming, is there anyone near me who would like to give it a bash? I will of course pay them for the service. Just south of Leeds if it is any help.
Tried the putting button down and lifting whilst ign on and then I couldn't open the door, had to get out of n/s and go round and give it a tug, lol. Still doesn't work.
 
I dont mean push the "pin" down, i mean use the lock/unlock buttons near the tweeter on the drivers door!

You can do the programming yourself, you just need two keys. Theres a simple procedure involving locking the door from the outside and pressing buttons on the fob, i'll find you the link.
 
So if I understand you correctly, I'll have to buy a lead the just plug it in to the car and t'other end into a lappy and away I go ? I only have one car key for each car, so will I have to buy more keys as it says stick one in the ignition ?
 
Ive reinitialised my fob before with no other keys as ive only that one key. I presume you need two to code a unpaired key ??
 
shuvit: You dont need the lead, it helps a bit to see whats going on, but its not required, but you do need two keys as the ignition has to be on, and you have to be able to lock and unlock the car from the outside.

Basically you turn the ignition on. Get out, lock the door with the key then immediately press the "unlock" button on the fob. Once for the first key, twice for the second key, etc. Wait 5 seconds then press unlock again, and the car should unlock. Get in, turn ignition off, and then test remote.

Its all there in the article i linked you to.

If you dont have two keys, it MIGHT work using the lock button on the door (next to the tweeter, not the door pin) instead of using the door barrel.

Have you used the buttons on the door to see if it will lock or unlock from them?



brad: if your just resyncing the rolling code on an already initialised key after a battery change or similar, then you can do it with only the one.
 
So Aragorn, if I get another key cut tomorrow and use that for the ignition, then I will be able to use the fob to reset it ?
That door lock button isn't doing anything, but I'm sure it did when I first got the windows working' It will end up being something simple like a pipe having come off or a wire dangling loose,lol.At least I can use it, just a pain in the backside locking/unlocking all the other doors !
Does the key have a chip or is it built into the circuitry of the fob ?
I ask because I needed a key for the Volvo and told him that there wasn't a chip, he said there was. He stuck it in his machine and told me there was one but it couldn't be copied ! So the whole moulding at the key had to be cut up to dig out the chip, which now sits in a 'normal' key, the ones with the little chip holder in the end.
 
audi upgrades
the key has a chip, you cant use the cut key in the ignition unless they can clone the immo transponder as well.

You could take the front off the remote key though, and leave that bit in the ignition, and use the cut key in the door with the remote seperate.
 
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Good idea Batman.................................I hadn't thought of that, Doh !
Just had the key in bits and found the chip. Thing is, I don't even know if the fob bit works !!!
 
Bit more info for the Guru's out there.
Got another key cut, but he couldn't 'copy' the chip. Tested the fob on his machine and it is sending out a code from all 3 buttons.
Went home to try Aragorns method ( just incase I locked my self out our worse ) and nothing happened. Sat in the car and tried the fob and also the door lock button, and I could hear the fan/motor running in the boot both on opening and closing modes.
Now whilst having the key cut he called his mate out from the back who knew abit about VW's, and he said it might be the micro switch in the door because the interior light still operates when the door opens.
Sooooooo, does anyone have a pic of it ( or one for sale) so that I don't get the wrong one due to wrong description ( like I did with what I thought was to do with central locking, well only 6 quid ), so that I can try that.
Also for a time the drivers door open warning was on but after messing about with the door switches the other day it has gone off.
Perhaps I will get this resolved shortly as the dog tries to leap into the car as soon as I open my door and fighting with an Akita for first access isn't my idea of fun, lol
 
More update.
Went out earlier when it was dark to try the sequence again..... but no lights coming on.
However..................... when I sat in the car and used the fob, things went whirrrr and the alarm warnings lit up on the doors and flashed.
Now the clever bit,when unlocked the alarm light went off and the interior light came on................ just like it does from ouside but not noticed during the day !
So it seems like if I unlock via the fob first, then use the key to open it the indicators wont flash.
Still cant fathom the unopening via the fob yet, but looks more like the micro switch as mentioned earlier.
 
Sounds like youve succesfully coded the remote.

If the interior lights coming on and off as it should, and the pumps whirring but the doors arent opening, then the impeller in the pump is either broken, or theres a vacuum leak somewhere. Probably a broken impeller i'd imagine. You can get repair kits off ebay (or you can dismantle the other pump you had and see if its impeller/motor assembly is good and swap it over.)
 
Don't buy a pump off EBay until you've checked the existing pump and found the model code. There are numerous central locking pumps out there. I wouldn't use breakeryard.com either, some of the dismantlers are completely unscrupulous.
 
audi upgrades
This car is enough to test the patience of a saint !!
Well stripped down the original pump (as advised on here ) and the impellor was complete and working ( I think ), and noticed that the black electrical connection block was full of corrosion, so checked the part number and it is the same as the replacement. I then stripped the replacement one and found that the impellor was in a dozen bits, so just swapped the complete motor over with a sense of smug satisfaction only to run into that old saying of pride comes before a fall.................................. yep you guessed it, everything just the same !! As a matter of interest, what is that white motor looking thing inside it all for ?
Then today as my mate had a day off we decided to replace the brake pads ( yes the ones from a fortnight ago ) only to find it never rains but it pours......................................... ****** locking wheel nuts and no bolt to fit them !!! So that idea is currently out the window.
Then we thought, lets swap the d/s headlight over from the saloon as it looks better only to discover that the avant one was only held in by the wiring and big lumps of cardboard jammed under it to wedge it in ! All the connection lugs were snapped off.
Anyway one good thing was the one from the saloon was perfect and is now sitting in the avant..
Win small battles and eventually you will win the war. lol.
 
If the pumps running it must be a vacuum leak. What usually happens is the leak causes the pump to run on and on and thats why the impeller shatters.
 
Don't know if it means anything, but for about 5 sec s or so after unlocking the door, either fob then key or just key, the motor runs then switches off. Would it do this if there was a leak ??
 
Thanks, but the lights are OK. Just want someone to sort out the central locking problem................................then maybe sort the alarm bit out. !
 
Me again, lol
Well today, and in a rain storm I may add (wasn't raining when we started !), me and John had another go at this car !
Stripped door panel off, yet again, to see what was what. Then took pipes off the motor and lizard lips blew down the pipes whilst I stood around giggling like a teenage school girl. The button on the drivers door went up and down but no others did. As he is selling his 'R' reg saloon, we decided to try his unit, and yes you guessed it EVERYTHING started working !!
Rotten sod wont let me swap it as he is selling his, lol. So it appears that there is an electrical fault or similar on the replacement unit as well as the original one. Now I know what I need to do.

Now everyone can call me numpty of the month if they like, but when I got home I tried to remove o/s headlight unit from the saloon.......................................... and failed miserably as it seems to be catching on something at the wing side.
Anyway, that aint the reason to win the award, it is this (don't really know if I should let you all in on it ),
I FOUND THE LOCKING WHEEL NUT IN THE ASH TRAY, after looking in there half a dozen times !!!!!!!
So could have done the brakes a fortnight ago, boohoo.
 
theres a bolt down in the corner of the headlight. If you look theres an eggshaped cutout on the wing, look down thru there and you'll see a torx bolt hiding away. Remove that and it should come out :)
 
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