Remap Issue car running far too rich...

gnic13

Audi S3 8V
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Hi

I am having an issue with a bluefin remap flashed to my 2011 S3 8P (S-Tronic)..
I have a slight stutter on acceleration and the Dyno run today flagged that it is losing power and i am only getting about half the estimated figures with the bluefin. The graphs show that the car is running far too rich with regards to AFR and Superchips have suggested that the MAF sensor or boost leak could be the cause. The Dyno guys saw no issue with boost and the car is sitting on 20k miles and is standard apart from the remap.. Vagcom didn't flag any issues on the car and i never had any problems before the remap...Has anyone else seen this type of issue with any remaps?
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Bluefin maps always run on the richer side. This sounds silly, but have you checked to make sure you have the DSG/S-Tronic map on your car, and not the Manual map?

I had Bluefin on my GTI and chose DSG/S-Tronic, but was still sent a file for a manual car and as a result the gearbox would sometimes cut power/fueling under boost. They sent me another file and all was well after that.
 
Bluefin maps always run on the richer side. This sounds silly, but have you checked to make sure you have the DSG/S-Tronic map on your car, and not the Manual map?

I had Bluefin on my GTI and chose DSG/S-Tronic, but was still sent a file for a manual car and as a result the gearbox would sometimes cut power/fueling under boost. They sent me another file and all was well after that.

Hi Chrise

Thanks for reply!
Yes they did the same to me at first so i had to go back to get the S-tronic map a few days later...
The guys at the RR said the same about the running rich but Superchips claim that even by their standards its way too rich...
Suggesting MAF or Boost leak but i'm not too convinced yet , do you know what sort of age/miles the MAF would be replaced ?
 
I don't think there is a certain milage MAF's should be replaced, may be worth replacing it anyway if its cheap. I don't know too much about the 8P engine as it was a TSI/EA888 in my (MK6) GTI
 
I don't think the AFR looks that bad, mine runs 10.8/1 or even richer at full load, the extra fuel cools the cylinder. As for the power, I would be more interested in a plot of the boost vs RPM
 
Cheers for the info Flexi, i'm far from an expert but the RR guy and the Superchips tech support both were saying it was too rich but both had different opinions...SC claimed it must be anything but their map but RR guy was saying it was their map as always run rich to play it safe...MAF is about £120 + fitting so didn't want to start messing with it unless i was sure it was the issue...Would the RR guys be able to get that data (boost vs rpm) out of the session i had?
 
Yes they would have access to all of the information necessary to diagnose your issue with the Vag-com but probably couldn't be bothered. The map will be fine because it is a generic product that has been tried and tested on lots of vehicles to ensure it is safe. Some tuners prefer to run the car a little rich which will of course lose a little power in favour of more safety, some will push everything to the ragged edge because they know the higher figures will draw in more customers. Looking at your dyno sheet, I would not expect that running rich would be causing your problem. The hesitancy in the torque line suggests the car is struggling to maintain the requested boost, most likely due to a boost leak. I would be replacing vacuum lines to and from the N75, and checking the N75 itself as my first step.
 
So i presume the N75 is the dump valve? I was checking out the GFB DV+ that you have fitted, you think that may help if i replace the vacuum lines too? Would the map increase the boost so that it could cause an issue for the stock N75? I will go in past garage tom and get the vagcom on it and see if anything flagged, i appreciate the feedback ! :)
 
So i presume the N75 is the dump valve? I was checking out the GFB DV+ that you have fitted, you think that may help if i replace the vacuum lines too? Would the map increase the boost so that it could cause an issue for the stock N75? I will go in past garage tom and get the vagcom on it and see if anything flagged, i appreciate the feedback ! :)
The N75 sensor is located on the turbo mate (black sensor mounted on the turbo that has 3 black vacuum hoses connected to it). It actuates the boost pressure.
 
Always start with the vacuum lines, because they are the cheapest link in the chain. The N75 is the boost pressure regulator, definitely worth checking. The diverter valve could be bad, (which is why i got my DV+) but when the diverter valve goes it is usually a large leak.
 
If you are doing the above, on round 1 and 3 replace Current Fuel Pressure with Intake Air Temperature 004-4
 

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