longer wirring noise on unlock near -

[Essexman]

Why all of a sudden does the wurring noise (that has allways been there for a short time after unlocking) stay on for longer now ?

I thought it had something to do with central locking or boot unlock/ cd changer, even fuel pump !

but when i get as close as i can to the noise its between the in.built subwoofer and the tail light cluster

open myself up to sound like a noob , but why would this noise just all of a sudden last longer ?

Do i need to put something right ?

Apreciate any advice

Si

 

[Lewis583]

Does everything on the car unlock? Boot/fuel flap/pass door/drivers door.

The central locking is vacuum operated which operates until a certain level of vacuum is generated. If the pump cannot generate a set level of vacuum (due to leaks in the system) it will continue to operate until it can.

 

[Essexman]

Thanks for reply, everything does unlock ok, you can 'unlock/ get in/ go to turn ignition on' and its still happening towards boot for about 10 more secs,

one other thing, if you are in while its continuing, but start the car up, it stops as soon as engine started no matter what,

I can feel a box area between subwoofer and left light cluster vibrating, ill get a better look tomor

 

[Essexman]

Thanks also for PM/ conversation from some of you, i will get stuck in tomorrow

 

[Alex C]

Maybe the central locking pump is dying? The pump is situated between the subwoofer and the tail lights - pretty much exactly where you've pin pointed

 

[Alex C]

That box you feel vibrating is the central locking pump

 

[IPG]

so i've got this problem happening too and VCDS comes up with an error (likely leak). so where would one find a likely leak!? Since it's not "definite" - i've got a replacement pump handy anyway...

but upon replacement - should the unit not buzz? or does the buzzing not last as long? i'll put a vid up of mine to give you an idea...

 

[Essexman]

Maybe the central locking pump is dying? The pump is situated between the subwoofer and the tail lights - pretty much exactly where you've pin pointed

That box you feel vibrating is the central locking pump

Was exactly that, new one on way, will fit it in the next few days, ive heard some say i will need key fob coded to the new unit, so ill either find a vcds or hopefully it'll just work with what ive got, ive also seen some more expensive units sold with the key, so if all else fails ill buy one of them, (just hope the graphite disc inside the pump lasts a while on the new one)

 

[Essexman]

so i've got this problem happening too and VCDS comes up with an error (likely leak). so where would one find a likely leak!? Since it's not "definite" - i've got a replacement pump handy anyway...

but upon replacement - should the unit not buzz? or does the buzzing not last as long? i'll put a vid up of mine to give you an idea...

Im guessing a 'leak' would be in the air hose system somewhere, (or one of the hoses off the pump ?) but hopefully its just throwing up that error because the pump has failed, When i fit mine i'll post results of any further buzzing/ wirring you mention

 

[IPG]

He's a video of the noise - pressed the wrong button at first (duh) but it goes on long enough that when i open the boot it's still going



how did you go @Essexman with fixing it?

 

[Essexman]

Tried fitting the new one !, everything completely dead on pressing button!, no interior lights, no indicator flash, no door or boot unlock :-(

Then transfered the graphite wheel & motor internals from the new unit over to my old unit- on refitting, first thing i done was go to lift the boot up again for access, it was locked! :-( so here is the start of further probs lol

entered car manualy by the drivers door, climbed into the small space in boot (with boot still not opening) fitted my old unit with new internals, (interior lights came on) good sign, climbed out the car, locked it all manualy with key, then tried to see if it worked, so pressed the unlock button on remote, indicators flashed, interior lights came on, new internals in old unit made a whole new wirring sound and low & behold the door locks opened nice & quickly on their own ! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . once ! :-(

Tried to unlock with fob- nothing, so entered car manualy with key, at this point my brain was starting to melt and it was 1am, so i called it a night

next day checked everything with unit (pnumatic lines/ plugs etc) all seem ok, thought id see if time had helped (build up presure etc? ) so tried the remote unlock again, nothing on 1st press, tried again and all worked (hate tempremental things) (indicator flash/ interior lights came on/ a little whirring, but no unlocking) At this point i tried the boot by hand- still locked, unlocked the drivers door and passenger door by key manualy to see if that made any difference to the boot, tried the boot, still wont open

So im back to squae one but just made it worse with a boot/ hatch i cant open

:-( Kill me now.

 

[IPG]

Argh goddammit! How the hell has that happened that changing the whole unit has disabled your hatch from unlocking manually?! WTF
does it unlock using the remote still or have you completely lost all hatchback unlocking (unless by sticking in the key)?

So see I've got the opposing problem as when I bought the car only unlocking the hatch works by remote. Can't use the soft touch handles :/ passenger doors are Fine. I realised something funny on mine though. If I unlock the hatch by the remote. No whirring! So maybe the piping system for the hatch is separate therefore it sends vacuum or signal only to the hatch portion when using the remote.

So I closed the hatch. Heard the beep as the car locked itself all up again. Unlocked all 3 doors with remote. And there's the whirring!

http://www.partsbase.org/audi/audi-a3-s3-sportback-qu-a3-eu-2002-86200-central-locking-system/

Had a look here for schematics. Those tubes are fed by the same piping so I think the hatchback actuator (for remote unlock) is separate to the door ones? Maybe you've not reattached something that should be? Or is there coding that needs doing re: soft touch unlock?

Anyway. I'll update too when I give it a bash! Hope you find your little hatchback gremlin!!!

 

[Essexman]

Its probably something simple, thats the positivity i have lol, yeah i wont be defeated and will post back findings too, thanks for your added info

 

[Essexman]

I managed to get into the boot, the lock just needed a lot of freeing up with oil etc

so the key for that works manualy now, means i can get better access to pump area

The issue i had today was- ''of course'' the petrol filler flap is locked too isn't it ! :-/ had a look in the haynes manual to find we have an emergency release ring pull for fuel filler flap, located right side in the boot (so again, glad i could get into the boot)

So just to summarize- with everything in the locked & alarmed position & with new motor/ pump internals- you walk up to the car & press the unlock button on remote, everything happens as it should (indicators flash/ alarm disengages/ interior lights come on etc) But nothing that is supposed to unlock actualy unlocks ! (including the fuel filler flap) All has to be done manualy with the key

Will look further into it tomorrow, In the meantime here is some pics i took of info out of the Haynes manual -

 

[Essexman]

So i had a good look as to why the newly refurbished (motor & graphite wheel bits) were ''wurring'' away not actualy unlocking the car like it should, and to my horror (but not suprised!) it has done the same thing the old one had done - Broken up inside, whaat the

Anyway, i saw this OLD thread and thought id try some other 'refurbed' units, surely something must work as a replacement 'plug & play', on the funnier side i did have 'thoughts' of putting an old supped up pro stock 2 13t motor in from my Radio controll car days, im sure the graphite wheel would love that lol

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/a3-agu-central-locking-pump.119001/

 

[IPG]

FIXED!!!

wooo! So this is how it SHOULD be!



i ended up sourcing a unit from a 3 door A3, after trying to silicone the hose tips near the join of the white bit that clips in (no deal), opening it up to check the graphite disc in my unit (intact), and then trying to remove the whole graphite disc unit (no deal) - i decided the next best thing to do was plug in the whole A3 unit and give it a go.

No deal.

Next thing to try? Compare the electronics and lo and behold they're completely different PCB boards. So i de-soldered the board from the A3 unit and swapped it around for my S3 PCB as everything under the PCB is exactly the same and gave it a test crossing all my fingers, toes and legs and it worked!

AND best of all the problem with my soft touch handles not previously working are cured! Looks like they need a strong vacuum to activate it that the leaky unit wasn't able to power the mechanism. Winner!

 

[Essexman]

So, i should get another unit with decent graphite wheel etc, But use my pcb from original, I did think about this but got put off when it looks like a flat cable would need to be cut & joined aswell as the other 2 wires

 

[IPG]

nah don't cut anything otherwise your wires will be too short to work with

just heat the old solder and suction it off then you'll be able to pull out the white ribbon/red/blue wires from their old PCB