Just scanned my car

[S3Hendry]

Fault code info..








18010 Power Supply B+ Terminal 30: Voltage too Low


17956 Boost Pressure Controle Valve (N75): Open Circuit


16955 Brake Light Switch (F): Implausible Signal



16514. Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit




16486. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70): Signal too Low


I own a s3 w reg. I want help/advice from people who maybe suffered from similar faults, what was your solution?


I' m a novice, wouldn't know where to start..

 

[<tuffty/>]

I would clear the codes, drive around a bit then rescan to see whats come back assuming you haen't already... could be some legacy codes from previous issues..

8010 Power Supply B+ Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
Happens when a map has been flashed in or battery has been removed


17956 Boost Pressure Controle Valve (N75): Open Circuit
Suggests N75 is either unplugged or has a wiring fault (broken wire)


16955 Brake Light Switch (F): Implausible Signal
Fairly normal fault... brake switches have a habit of failing.. replacement is not expensive (only use a genuine one)


16514. Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: Malfunction in Circuit
Suggests the Lambda probe is faulty... this is the pre cat one at the top of the downpipe


16486. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70): Signal too Low
Faulty MAF sensor...

This is a useful resource for looking up what fault codes mean...
Category:Fault Codes - Ross-Tech Wiki

<tuffty/>

 

[S3Hendry]

Yeah I've tried clearing them, driving around and re-scanning, but no such luck, when I scanned my car 2 weeks ago all of the above showed up on the results except the Maf sensor, in the duration of time between the first scan and the most recent scan I've installed a badger 5 tip, prior to fitting the tip, Maf sensor didn't appear on the results.. Little bit strange..any ideas?

Appreciate the help dude

 

[<tuffty/>]

Extra airflow probably pushed an already tired MAF over the edge... if you don't know when it was last changed then its prob worth getting one anyway

All the others I have already commented on mate...

Looks like you need a new MAF and Lambda sensor plus check to see if you have plugged the N75 back in after fitting the TIP... if its plugged in the the wire has a break somewhere

<tuffty/>

 

[S3Hendry]

More silly questions

Basically got the lot sorted bar lamda and N75. Car is stuttering on occasions..

How accessible is the pre cat lamda, is it simple DIY job? Or is it a can of worms if you don't have right equipment?

Now I know the issue with the n75 is the wiring, a broken wire as tuffty said, I had a look and then I hit a brick wall.. There is two wires that are connected to the n75 which are easily accessible but then those two wires disappear..

Can anyone point me in the right direction for locating broken wire?

 

[S3Hendry]

What the ****** hell have I done? Took the car out for a spin and turbo is boosting at 18 psi? It's never been above 12It's not mapped and it's more like a unnatural boost spike

turns out had the n75 plugged in the wrong way

 

[<tuffty/>]

What the ****** hell have I done? Took the car out for a spin and turbo is boosting at 18 psi? It's never been above 12It's not mapped and it's more like a unnatural boost spike

turns out had the n75 plugged in the wrong way

DOH!!...

<tuffty/>

 

[S3Hendry]

DOH!!...

<tuffty/>

Everyday's a school day for me.. Can you shed any light on locating the broken cable dude?

 

[<tuffty/>]

I assume you have cleared the code and its come back?

All you can realistically do is trace back the wiring loom and look for obvious breaks in the wires

<tuffty/>

 

[S3Hendry]

Yeah man cleared it but no luck ****** thing won't work, recently during one of my many spirited drives I noticed the turbo doesn't always boost consistently which isn't ideal..*** this is going to be an absolute minefield tracing a break in a wire! Checking for continuity may be the way forward!

Any clues on the lamda sensor? Share your wisdom tuffty