Facelift MTM Cantronic Tuning Box Dyno Results

ASRman

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Hi all

Decided to put the car on the rollers this afternoon as I was interested to see what sort of power it was making given I have done a few mods to the car namely :

MTM Cantronic Tuning Box
BCS Resonator Delete
VWR Turbo Inlet pipe
BMC Air filter
Snow Grate Removal

Unfortunately was somewhat disappointed in the results. The car only made 335bhp however the torque figure seemed abnormally high being 385 Ft Lbs .

Having read other MTM users own Dyno experiences most have seemed to have acheieved around the 360bhp mark although I am surprised the torque was so high.

What are your thoughts on these readings ?

Tempted for APR Stage 1 now!
 
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That's a good torque figure ask what torque figures the others were getting ? Might be that you have those mods and it affects a higher torque value.
 
What was the afr? What boost was it set at?
And if your having a map MRC Tuning or Unicorn.
 
Hi all

Decided to put the car on the rollers this afternoon as I was interested to see what sort of power it was making given I have done a few mods to the car namely :

MTM Cantronic Tuning Box
BCS Resonator Delete
VWR Turbo Inlet pipe
BMC Air filter
Snow Grate Removal

Unfortunately was somewhat disappointed in the results. The car only made 335bhp however the torque figure seemed abnormally high being 385 Ft Lbs .

Having read other MTM users own Dyno experiences most have seemed to have acheieved around the 360bhp mark although I am surprised the torque was so high.

What are your thoughts on these readings ?

Tempted for APR Stage 1 now!
Was the MTM box purchased new or used?
 
Interesting result.
Did you buy the MTM box new or second hand, also was the car warmed up properly first as I believe the power is reduced below 90°c oil temperature.
I did a not very scientific test using my P3cars gauge 0-60 and it made 1/2 second difference to the time with it fitted
I've never had it on the rollers though so have always assumed the 360 ish was correct!
 
I'm aware of no one happy with the MTM box. On the RS3 it seems to confuse the car so much so that people are removing them.

TX.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk
 
I'm aware of no one happy with the MTM box. On the RS3 it seems to confuse the car so much so that people are removing them.

TX.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk
I'm happy with the MTM on my S3, there is a definite difference with it fitted and it runs like a dream.
You can also hear the difference in induction roar but like I say I've never quantified the increase in power
 
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I'm aware of no one happy with the MTM box. On the RS3 it seems to confuse the car so much so that people are removing them.

TX.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk
MTM got it wrong for the PFL RS3 and as yet no one has fitted the 2nd gen MTM box to a FL RS3 as on paper it’s a bit of a joke. The S3 however was / is a different story and see’s some pretty good gains when all is working well.

Although not an official “feature” of the box they can become locked to a car and require re-flashing in order to be moved and work correctly.

Not an S or RS 3 but my 2.0TFSI with MTM has gone from 193bhp to 257bhp :)
 
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MTM got it wrong for the PFL RS3 and as yet no one has fitted the 2nd gen MTM box to a FL RS3 as on paper it’s a bit of a joke. The S3 however was / is a different story and see’s some pretty good gains when all is working well.

Although not an official “feature” of the box they can become locked to a car and require re-flashing in order to be moved and work correctly.

Not an S or RS 3 but my 2.0TFSI with MTM has gone from 193bhp to 257bhp :)
Not got mine dyno to see how much difference it is making but I'm sure there is one (bought it used from Jungle).

I still don't understand this whole "locking" business though. Wouldn't it either work or not work. So you should get what MTM claim (give or take) or it does nothing and get stock numbers? Whereas the OP is getting about half the hp
 
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That's a good torque figure ask what torque figures the others were getting ? Might be that you have those mods and it affects a higher torque value.

It is a very good torque figure indeed seeing that the APR Stage 1 high torque file according to the APR site puts out just a little more than what I achieved with the MTM box .

What was the afr? What boost was it set at?
And if your having a map MRC Tuning or Unicorn.

I am going back to them next week for some work on my suspension I will probably re run the car and get the AFR and boost figures , just had the standard printed torque and hp curves today.

Why do you recommend MRC/Unicorn over APR?

Was the MTM box purchased new or used?

MTM box purchased brand new around 6 months ago for my FL S3 .

Interesting result.
Did you buy the MTM box new or second hand, also was the car warmed up properly first as I believe the power is reduced below 90°c oil temperature.
I did a not very scientific test using my P3cars gauge 0-60 and it made 1/2 second difference to the time with it fitted
I've never had it on the rollers though so have always assumed the 360 ish was correct!

Hi, yes brand new MTM from QStuning. The temperature would have been above 90 as the car was running for a while and I did remind the chap running the Dyno of the same !

Whilst the results are strange/somehwat disappointing I am actually very happy with the tuning box itself. From 3rd gear onwards the difference from stock is just night and day the way it pulls in the mid range is excellent. As stated though was still expecting a higher bhp figure.

I'm aware of no one happy with the MTM box. On the RS3 it seems to confuse the car so much so that people are removing them.

TX.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk

Apart from the disappointing bhp figures the car drives like a dream and is a night and day difference from the stock S3.

I'm happy with the MTM on my S3, there is a definite difference with it fitted and it runs like a dream.
You can also hear the difference in induction roar but like I say I've never quantified the increase in power

Exactly same here. Today has left me very confused indeed . Most users are getting good bhp figures but disappointing torque whereas mines seems to have produced the opposite result with an extremely high torque and low bhp.

MTM got it wrong for the PFL RS3 and as yet no one has fitted the 2nd gen MTM box to a FL RS3 as on paper it’s a bit of a joke. The S3 however was / is a different story and see’s some pretty good gains when all is working well.

Although not an official “feature” of the box they can become locked to a car and require re-flashing in order to be moved and work correctly.

Not an S or RS 3 but my 2.0TFSI with MTM has gone from 193bhp to 257bhp :)

I have lined up my MTM against a stage 1 Revo Golf R (Dsg) from a roll on a private road and there was very little in it. Starting to think this specific Dyno simply produces extremely conservative figures. Alternatively and hopefully unlikely foul play at work in an attempt to sell me an APR stage 1 (car was ran at an APR approved dealers) .
 
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Not got mine dyno to see how much difference it is making but I'm sure there is one (bought it used from Jungle).

I still don't understand this whole "locking" business though. Wouldn't it either work or not work. So you should get what MTM claim (give or take) or it does nothing and get stock numbers? Whereas the OP is getting about half the hp
“Locking” is just a term that has been used in relation the MTM boxes. The box does not actually lock but something happens that either reduces its effect or locks the out all together. I asked the question as to why and “it this true” and I was told “yes some boxes lock” but MTM have no idea why and it’s not actually a planned feature of the system. Only way around it is to reprogram the box, which is basiclly the same as flashing it.
 
It is a very good torque figure indeed seeing that the APR Stage 1 high torque file according to the APR site puts out just a little more than what I achieved with the MTM box .



I am going back to them next week for some work on my suspension I will probably re run the car and get the AFR and boost figures , just had the standard printed torque and hp curves today.

Why do you recommend MRC/Unicorn over APR?



MTM box purchased brand new around 6 months ago for my FL S3 .



Hi, yes brand new MTM from QStuning. The temperature would have been above 90 as the car was running for a while and I did remind the chap running the Dyno of the same !

Whilst the results are strange/somehwat disappointing I am actually very happy with the tuning box itself. From 3rd gear onwards the difference from stock is just night and day the way it pulls in the mid range is excellent. As stated though was still expecting a higher bhp figure.



Apart from the disappointing bhp figures the car drives like a dream and is a night and day difference from the stock S3.



Exactly same here. Today has left me very confused indeed . Most users are getting good bhp figures but disappointing torque whereas mines seems to have produced the opposite result with an extremely high torque and low bhp.



I have lined up my MTM against a stage 1 Revo Golf R (Dsg) from a roll on a private road and there was very little in it. Starting to think this specific Dyno simply produces extremely conservative figures. Alternatively and hopefully unlikely foul play at work in an attempt to sell me an APR stage 1!
Did Kim not dyno the car when the box was installed, or was the box posted out to you? Am thinking something needs to be tweaked. Have seen this before.
 
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“Locking” is just a term that has been used in relation the MTM boxes. The box does not actually lock but something happens that either reduces its effect or locks the out all together. I asked the question as to why and “it this true” and I was told “yes some boxes lock” but MTM have no idea why and it’s not actually a planned feature of the system. Only way around it is to reprogram the box, which is basiclly the same as flashing it.
Not sure if I'd want mine on a dyno or not! If it's not near the MTM numbers then it would probably need to be reflashed but I believe that costs a few hundred pound, although if MTM say it isn't a design feature then in my opinion it should be free. At least for the same car/engine.

I'm happy with it at least so maybe best to not know the truth
 
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Did Kim not dyno the car when the box was installed, or was the box posted out to you? Am thinking something needs to be tweaked. Have seen this before.

Nope it was posted out to me and I fitted it myself. What would need to be tweaked do you think? My understanding was that these are sealed boxes which are plug and play out of the box with no adjustments possible or necessary.

Like I said the car pulls generally very well, would you suggest my first port of call is to get in touch with QST or find myself another Dyno operator for a second readout?
 
Not sure if I'd want mine on a dyno or not! If it's not near the MTM numbers then it would probably need to be reflashed but I believe that costs a few hundred pound, although if MTM say it isn't a design feature then in my opinion it should be free. At least for the same car/engine.

I'm happy with it at least so maybe best to not know the truth
I know exactly what you mean.
I bought mine used from a forum member a year ago and the bum dyno says it works. I'll leave it that lol
 
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Nope it was posted out to me and I fitted it myself. What would need to be tweaked do you think? My understanding was that these are sealed boxes which are plug and play out of the box with no adjustments possible or necessary.

Like I said the car pulls generally very well, would you suggest my first port of call is to get in touch with QST or find myself another Dyno operator for a second readout?
Software. My experience has been that if "something" is not working as it should the Germans remote in to the box and reconfigure it.

If you have a stock dyno and then a dyno with the MTM on (same dyno) then you should be able to work out a % boost. I think you will need a trip down to QST in order to get the box checked.
 
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Not sure if I'd want mine on a dyno or not! If it's not near the MTM numbers then it would probably need to be reflashed but I believe that costs a few hundred pound, although if MTM say it isn't a design feature then in my opinion it should be free. At least for the same car/engine.

I'm happy with it at least so maybe best to not know the truth

Like this thinking! In fact I'm in the same boat! Prior to the Dyno I was totally content with the car, now I'm only 95% content :/

Ignorance is bliss as they say lol

Software. My experience has been that if "something" is not working as it should the Germans remote in to the box and reconfigure it.

If you have a stock dyno and then a dyno with the MTM on (same dyno) then you should be able to work out a % boost. I think you will need a trip down to QST in order to get the box checked.

Thanks DJAlix I think you're right and I will ping an email across to QST in the morning to see what they can do. Kim knows these cars and MTM inside out so surely will be able to resolve the problem ,indeed if there is one at all, both swiftly and efficiently.
 
I know exactly what you mean.
I bought mine used from a forum member a year ago and the bum dyno says it works. I'll leave it that lol
The bum dyno haha.

But yeah agree. Equally though would like to know if it's actually doing what it should. But then if not it's another 400/500£ investment if it has to be recoded to hopefully get it sorted... So yeah.....

@ASRman keep the thread updated please :)
 
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Like this thinking! In fact I'm in the same boat! Prior to the Dyno I was totally content with the car, now I'm only 95% content :/

Ignorance is bliss as they say lol



Thanks DJAlix I think you're right and I will ping an email across to QST in the morning to see what they can do. Kim knows these cars and MTM inside out so surely will be able to resolve the problem ,indeed if there is one at all, both swiftly and efficiently.
He does indeed. Being you are the original owner of the unit I doubt there will be any costs involved. Keep us updated.
 
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The bum dyno haha.

But yeah agree. Equally though would like to know if it's actually doing what it should. But then if not it's another 400/500£ investment if it has to be recoded to hopefully get it sorted... So yeah.....

@ASRman keep the thread updated please :)
When I bought it I knew there was much confusion over the transfer of second hand boxes, I even emailed QST for clarification without reply.
I guess the myth that surrounds these boxes is built on the fact that nobody but MTM really knows what's going on inside them.
Imagine the disappointment of sending the box back for recoding, paying another £400-£500 and it still feels the same.
Unless it's categorically proven that the box is watered down when transferred, I'll leave it plugged in and drive it content that it makes a nice difference!
 
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The problem with Dyno runs is that there are so many variables. Things like. 2WD vs 4WD dynos, Make, condition and calibration of the one used, outside temps and humidity. Correction factors to calcukate wheel power conpared to engine power. Cooling in the dyno, temp of engine in the car and heat soak etc etc.

If you dyno a car in the morning on a cold crisp day compared to middle of summer in the afternoon, you probably would achieve different results. As an example ambient temperature differences of 10 degrees might push the intake temparature up by circa 20 degrees which could result in less boost and therefore less performance and bhp. Thats why cars generally feel alive first thing in the morning running crisp cold air. Its also why people fit upgraded Intercoolers to the MQB platform cars as heat soak is a known issue.

The only constant on any dyno is the difference between what the car is stock and then tuned. With both figures calculated on the same day / seasion. The difference between the two is what reflects your increase in performance specific to your car.

Yes a dyno run with give you a point of reference but without a base line its just a guide in my eyes and a bit of fun. Some dynos will read high, others low its a fact. Same with cars which should be identical. Some will make more pwer stock, others less.

As an example when I attended a Dyno day at Perfect Touch last year organised by Alex they stated their dyno tends to read low. It was a very warm May day. However most cars reflected decent figures although a few of the RS4’s were significantly down on power but thats another story.

My S3 with the MTM box made pretty much what MTM claim - 357.5 BHP / 441.7 NM/ 325.8 Torque. Peak torque came in at just under 3k rpm with bhp climbing as the revs rose. I did not get a stock figure on the same dyno, but an OBD reader claimed my stock S3 was 294bhp. So some reference although granted not exactly accurate.

BAF14700 6C54 42B1 BB61 F98FD783DCA3


For many its also about the curves on the graphs and what people call ‘ realestate ‘ rather than absolute peak numbers. If you hit 360bhp and 385nm of torque but its all at 6.000 revs its not much good to you!

I wouldnt worry about your BHP number @ASRman its about how the car drives and feels for you. You seem to love it so stick with it and dont be dissapointed.

My S3 felt great, especially 3rd gear onwards and I had a number of rolling runs with Revo cars and MRC tuned S3’s which apparently were running significantly higher performance numbers on Stage 1/1+ and mine did not feel wanting. I’m sure @batch would say the same about his S3.

Enjoy your car for what it is.

Jungle
 
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The problem with Dyno runs is that there are so many variables. Things like. 2WD vs 4WD dynos, Make, condition and calibration of the one used, outside temps and humidity. Correction factors to calcukate wheel power conpared to engine power. Cooling in the dyno, temp of engine in the car and heat soak etc etc.

If you dyno a car in the morning on a cold crisp day compared to middle of summer in the afternoon, you probably would achieve different results. As an example ambient temperature differences of 10 degrees might push the intake temparature up by circa 20 degrees which could result in less boost and therefore less performance and bhp. Thats why cars generally feel alive first thing in the morning running crisp cold air. Its also why people fit upgraded Intercoolers to the MQB platform cars as heat soak is a known issue.

The only constant on any dyno is the difference between what the car is stock and then tuned. With both figures calculated on the same day / seasion. The difference between the two is what reflects your increase in performance specific to your car.

Yes a dyno run with give you a point of reference but without a base line its just a guide in my eyes and a bit of fun. Some dynos will read high, others low its a fact. Same with cars which should be identical. Some will make more pwer stock, other less.

As an example when I attended a Dyno day at Perfect Touch last year organised by Alex they stated their dyno tends to read low. It was a very warm May day. However most cars reflected decent figures although a few of the RS4’s were significantly down on power but thats another story.

My S3 with the MTM box made pretty much what MTM claim - 357.5 BHP / 441.7 NM/ 325.8 Torque. Peak torque came in at just under 3k rpm with bhp climbing as the revs rose. I did not get a stock figure on the same dyno, but an OBD reader claimed my stock S3 was 294bhp. So some reference although granted not exactly accurate.

View attachment 155691

For many its also about the curves on the graphs and what people call ‘ realestate ‘ rather than absolute peak numbers. If you hit 360bhp and 385nm of torque but its all at 6.000 revs its not much good to you!

I wouldnt worry about your BHP number @ASRman its about how the car drives and feels for you. You seem to love it so stixk with it and dont be dissapointed.

My S3 felt great, especially 3rd gear onwards and I had a number of rolling runs with Revo cars and MRC tuned S3’s which apparently were running significantly higher performance numbers on Stage 1/1+ and mine did not feel wanting. I’m sure @batch would say the same about his S3.

Enjoy your car for what it is.

Jungle
This is why I did both stock and "box" runs on the Perfect Touch rolling road day, and the results were strange:
  • Car with Pipercross Filter on the QST Dyno = 193bhp
  • Car with CTS Turbo Inlet, Revo Hose, Piper Cross Filter on Perfect Touch Dyno = 226bhp
  • Car with CTS Turbo Inlet, Revo Hose, Piper Cross Filter and TMC Motorsport Tuning Box on Perfect Touch Dyno = 237bhp
I ended up sending the TMC Motorsport Box back after this and waited for MTM to update their box for my car, and then back on the QST Dyno:
  • Car with Pipercross Filter and CTS Turbo Inlet on the QST Dyno = 199bhp
  • Car with Pipercross Filter and CTS Turbo Inlet and MTM Box on the QST Dyno = 253bhp
Not sure where I got the 257bhp figure I quoted in another post as looking at my results it was 253bhp. So going on the above the PT Dyno was telling porkies! However Every Dyno is different but any mods I do to the vehicle in future would need to be tested on the QST dyno in order to continue working from the "known" baseline, or I would need to start over from stock on another dyno.

I don't really care about numbers myself, if I did then I would not be driving the car that I am. As Mr Jungle says ts all about the drivability but you cannot beat consistent, ie same day / session testing in order to work out whats what.
 
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The problem with Dyno runs is that there are so many variables. Things like. 2WD vs 4WD dynos, Make, condition and calibration of the one used, outside temps and humidity. Correction factors to calcukate wheel power conpared to engine power. Cooling in the dyno, temp of engine in the car and heat soak etc etc.

If you dyno a car in the morning on a cold crisp day compared to middle of summer in the afternoon, you probably would achieve different results. As an example ambient temperature differences of 10 degrees might push the intake temparature up by circa 20 degrees which could result in less boost and therefore less performance and bhp. Thats why cars generally feel alive first thing in the morning running crisp cold air. Its also why people fit upgraded Intercoolers to the MQB platform cars as heat soak is a known issue.

The only constant on any dyno is the difference between what the car is stock and then tuned. With both figures calculated on the same day / seasion. The difference between the two is what reflects your increase in performance specific to your car.

Yes a dyno run with give you a point of reference but without a base line its just a guide in my eyes and a bit of fun. Some dynos will read high, others low its a fact. Same with cars which should be identical. Some will make more pwer stock, others less.

As an example when I attended a Dyno day at Perfect Touch last year organised by Alex they stated their dyno tends to read low. It was a very warm May day. However most cars reflected decent figures although a few of the RS4’s were significantly down on power but thats another story.

My S3 with the MTM box made pretty much what MTM claim - 357.5 BHP / 441.7 NM/ 325.8 Torque. Peak torque came in at just under 3k rpm with bhp climbing as the revs rose. I did not get a stock figure on the same dyno, but an OBD reader claimed my stock S3 was 294bhp. So some reference although granted not exactly accurate.

View attachment 155691

For many its also about the curves on the graphs and what people call ‘ realestate ‘ rather than absolute peak numbers. If you hit 360bhp and 385nm of torque but its all at 6.000 revs its not much good to you!

I wouldnt worry about your BHP number @ASRman its about how the car drives and feels for you. You seem to love it so stick with it and dont be dissapointed.

My S3 felt great, especially 3rd gear onwards and I had a number of rolling runs with Revo cars and MRC tuned S3’s which apparently were running significantly higher performance numbers on Stage 1/1+ and mine did not feel wanting. I’m sure @batch would say the same about his S3.

Enjoy your car for what it is.

Jungle

Thanks Jungle as usual your post is spot on and I agree totally with what you're saying . My car was ran in the heat of mid day yesterday and I even felt the car felt ever so slightly more sluggish than usual (the normal variances in performance with hot and cold weather) but still put out a very impressive torque figure which I was pleased with. I think if we ran again without the tune it would have been sub 300 hp for sure. People have claimed the turbo inlet pipe/snow removal and air filter alone can add up to 10-15bhp meaning that if so the MTM box would have only been adding 10bhp over stock (310ps) which doesn't sound right!

I think I will stick with the MTM for now. I still have two full years of manufacture warranty left and having compared my car on two separate previous occasions against revo stage 1 Golfs I don't personally think the benefits over MTM of a full remap warrant the risks of flagging a TD1 at my next service. I don't think I'll be going to the dark side (APR) just yet lol .

Having said that I have emailed Kim and requested him take a look at the car in order to ensure everything is running and performing as expected, will try and get some stock figures and then boxed figures seperately for comparison , will keep you all updated
 
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What happened to the guy that used to post a 2,000 word dissertation titled Mods are bad M'Kay, every time some as much as mentioned adjusting their seat.
 
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To update this thread, I have contacted QST who have offered to dyno the car but for a cost of £90 plus VAT. Due to QST being approximately a 3 hour drive from my home, I have instead opted to book my car in today at 2pm to have it dyno'd at MSL Performance in Birmingham which is slightly closer.

I have read and heard good things about MSL Performance, indeed a simple YouTube search reveals a number of Stage 1/JB4 S3's running very respectable numbers on their dyno. Whilst Jungles comments above remain true and sound, it seems the dyno bug has got me, and I am very curious to see what my MTM S3 FL will put out along with the other modifications I have listed. With that said, slightly nervous as if the car again fails to provide quoted numbers that may be enough to push me right over to a full blown Stage 1/2 APR or equivalent and you will also find a nice shiny MTM Cantronic Tuning Module up for sale in the classified section shortly :salute:

Will update this evening and post dyno graphs alongside...
 
Are you going to unplug the box for a run just to get a baseline?
 
Are you going to unplug the box for a run just to get a baseline?

I will ask if they can cover a baseline run within the same price they have quoted me

I recall the MTM having an 'adaptation period' of 20 miles or so before full power effects are felt so perhaps the best way to do it is to run the car straight away with the box on (it's been on now for a few months since my last service) and then perform a final run at the end without the box?
 
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I will ask if they can cover a baseline run within the same price they have quoted me

I recall the MTM having an 'adaptation period' of 20 miles or so before full power effects are felt so perhaps the best way to do it is to run the car straight away with the box on (it's been on now for a few months since my last service) and then perform a final run at the end without the box?
Yeah that's what I was thinking.
The best way would be to run the car fully warmed up with the box on and then remove it before a final run. At least that way you will have a true comparison and it will end the indecision once and for all.
I think the issue with the 8V S3 to me after having a 2+ 8P S3, is the tsi engine delivers the power a bit smoother than the tfsi did and so doesn't feel as rapid, the Speedo does tell a different story though!

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Results are in... Unfortunately cost would have been too much for me to care to get a separate baseline run.

304 WHP at the wheels and 349 Ft Lbs again at the wheels.

Now just trying to figure out how to convert to crank figures for both?
 
Results are in... Unfortunately cost would have been too much for me to care to get a separate baseline run.

304 WHP at the wheels and 349 Ft Lbs again at the wheels.

Now just trying to figure out how to convert to crank figures for both?

As a rough back of the hand calculation arent you looking at 15-18% loss, for AWD cars and DSG transmission??. Granted not perfect but ball park.. But based on above thats between 357-370 BHP. Circa 470NM of torque is very decent as well. So surely about where the car should be.? Shame you dont have a base line number though as that would have been a decent tell.

Could always grab yourself a £10/$10 OBD Amazon dongle and get that to give you a base line using Torque/ Dash Command App. You can leave the MTM on for that as the ECU will read true.

Jungle
 
As a rough back of the hand calculation arent you looking at 15-18% loss, for AWD cars and DSG transmission??. Granted not perfect but ball park.. But based on above thats between 357-370 BHP. Circa 470NM of torque is very decent as well. So surely about where the car should be.? Shame you dont have a base line number though as that would have been a decent tell.

Could always grab yourself a £10/$10 OBD Amazon dongle and get that to give you a base line using Torque/ Dash Command App. You can leave the MTM on for that as the ECU will read true.

Jungle

Hi jungle yes dividing 304 by 0.85/0.83 seems to give ballpark figures of 360-370 hp at crank which seem reasonable. I am quite happy with that. However I'm slightly confused by the torque figure, being 350 ft lbs at the wheels. Does that not equate to almost 400 ft lbs at the crank? Bit concerned about longevity on my dsg if that's accurate ! My maths isn't the best could someone please elucidate as to how the calculation works for wheel torque to crank ?

I think I will pick up a dongle that's a good shout just to get a rough estimate of standard figures
 
Shame you didn't get the figures without the box on...I think you've missed a trick there, but they do seem about where they should be.
Calculating crank horsepower is always a matter for debate as it isn't an exact science unless you use an engine dyno.
Rolling roads though usually calculate it from the cost down figures after the power run, did they not do this?

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Shame you didn't get the figures without the box on...I think you've missed a trick there, but they do seem about where they should be.
Calculating crank horsepower is always a matter for debate as it isn't an exact science unless you use an engine dyno.
Rolling roads though usually calculate it from the cost down figures after the power run, did they not do this?

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I agree ideally should have done a baseline run as without doing so like you say it's anyone's guess. I think the best I can and was hoping for was ballpark figures from a well respected and independent dyno to put my mind at rest with my MTM. I would say on this basis alone I am satisfied with the results.

The Dyno operator did not provide a seperate graph for crank no but I called him this morning asking how they calculate engine hp and was told to times my figure by 1.12 which equates to a crank horsepower of just over 340hp . To be fair he didn't seem entirely sure. My understanding was rwd cars suffer around 15% drivetrain loss and haldex slightly more with around 18%. So multiplying my figure by 1.12 equates to a very low drivetrain loss of under 12%

I also forgot to mention having a chat with the Dyno operator there was a custom Stage 1 Golf R (ECU Remap) on the rollers a bit earlier in the day before I arrived and that just scraped 300 whp which is a smidge lower than my figure. The owner wasn't very pleased at all apparently, seems like the MSL Dyno is a bit of a 'heartbreaker'.

I think I've had enough of Dynos for now lol. I may go ahead and order one of them Amazon dongles as per jungles suggestion or alternatively and I think the ultimate is to invest in a vbox to make some direct performance comparisons with stage 1/2 cars .
 
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MTM website quotes 360 and my S3 FL achieved 364 on QS’s rollers and 324 before!!
That was on 97 ron, so could be a tad higher on 98.
Can’t remember the torque, but you definitely know its fitted, it is a whole different beast.
 
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Don't want to de-rail the thread too much ... but with lots of stage 1 maps the supplier will recommend the s-tronic to be tuned as well, I know MRC/APR both do this and I think site sponsor Unicorn does too.
With the MTM (or similar) is it just not required due to some difference, or because some of the stage 1 maps can get better numbers... or because MTM don't (or can't) do gearbox tunes so they don't advertise it needing to be done. (they might even do gearboxes, I don't know).

From what I've seen people talk about stage 1 being a "cheap" or good value way to get more power, but if you then are doing the stronic too, it can be what like, £800-1000? I wouldn't really say that's cheap, especially when its 100% lost when you sell the car.
 
MTM website quotes 360 and my S3 FL achieved 364 on QS’s rollers and 324 before!!
That was on 97 ron, so could be a tad higher on 98.
Can’t remember the torque, but you definitely know its fitted, it is a whole different beast.

Yes can absolutely tell when it's fitted the mid range pull transformed the car for me. I've given up on Dynos to be honest the above posters had it nailed on the head by saying Dynos are useful for one thing only that being measuring the difference between a stock and tuned car on the same run and same day. Other than that there's too much variance adjustables and massaging of figures it seems particularly by operators who have a seated interest in selling a certain product.

My car made 304 whp on a linked dyno, some operators would call that 340hp with a 12% loss and some would call it 380 with a 20% loss. I've seen A45 AMG s on the same Dyno showing 380 whp but have also witnessed stage 1 A45s that struggle to stay with stage 1 Golf Rs. Real world performance is king

Don't want to de-rail the thread too much ... but with lots of stage 1 maps the supplier will recommend the s-tronic to be tuned as well, I know MRC/APR both do this and I think site sponsor Unicorn does too.
With the MTM (or similar) is it just not required due to some difference, or because some of the stage 1 maps can get better numbers... or because MTM don't (or can't) do gearbox tunes so they don't advertise it needing to be done. (they might even do gearboxes, I don't know).

From what I've seen people talk about stage 1 being a "cheap" or good value way to get more power, but if you then are doing the stronic too, it can be what like, £800-1000? I wouldn't really say that's cheap, especially when its 100% lost when you sell the car.

Absolutely agree and when you factor in the bills sent from Audi/VW when things go pop having flagged TD1 I'm sure a lot of owners will regret not going for a MTM/JB4 equivalent. A £1400 tuning module is a cheaper option than a £400 tune plus a £6000 dsg gearbox . The two Dynos I've had done on my car, if correct, seem to indicate I'm running near enough 400 ft lbs so on that basis I should also be thinking about a dsg tune. That said I've never once noticed any sort of slip nor has my car missed a beat whatsoever for that matter since installing the MTM .
 
Have done a bit more digging (yes had quite of bit of spare time today as my day off lol). Seems like either something is seriously up with my car or the Dyno readings at MSL are extremely sporadic. I don't think anything is wrong with my car it pulls like hell, has kept up easily with a revo 1 7.5 Golf R recently and brings up no fault codes when scanned on my obdeleven.

See here, DTUK S3 apparently making 347 whp on MSL Dyno:

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/dtuk-2-0-tfsi-280-300ps-software-update.247443/

JB4 S3 here made 328 whp on MSL Dyno:

https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/17479-burger-tuning-jb4-information-thread/?page=30

On this basis DTUK box gives approx 25 hp over JB4 which in turn gives approx 25 hp over an MTM Cantronic, all whilst a comparison thread (jungles thread I believe) on this forum between an MTM car and a DTUK car revealed no difference in straight line performance when compared side by side:

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threa...-cantronic-–-s3-8v-model-a-users-view.268399/

Very strange indeed.
 
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[QUOTE="oli356, post: 3259649, member: 126563"With the MTM (or similar) is it just not required due to some difference, or because some of the stage 1 maps can get better numbers... or because MTM don't (or can't) do gearbox tunes so they don't advertise it needing to be done. (they might even do gearboxes, I don't know).[/QUOTE]

@oli356 The MTM box does not produce the high torque values that the custom and high shelf versions of Revo/APR and alike offer. The likes of MRC are very good in that they will NOT put a high torque figure onto a car without increasing the clutch plate pressure ( this is what the TCU tune does ). They will however as you say charge for this pleasure. The other big tuners out there as mentioned above are generally the same.

Dont quote me on the following but I believe the DSG 6 speed auto boxes are apparently good for 500Nm of torque without TCU DSG tune, once done they are good for around 600Nm.

7 Speed DSG on newer FL S3/Golf R cars was a bit of an unknown but now plenty of cars appearing on various forums in different state of tunes. So far they appear to offer similar threshold numbers to PFL cars. From digging around I think the box is DQ381 wet clutch- upgrade of the old DQ380- ?

PFL RS3 has DQ500 7 speed . This box appears to be able to handle 700NM+. FL cars similar gearbox I believe.

Manual S3 / Golf R cars, produce higher BHP figures as they dont have the trasmission loss but unless they have upgraded clutch cant handle large amounts of torque. Sachs upgrade kits available for the manual boys. !!

However dont forget there are other factors at play with regards to reliability and the stress put on the components in a car. Very regular servicing, warming / cooling a car down, and how and where its driven are all facets to be aware of. Having a stage 1 car (350-385 BHP, 440-485Nm ) and driving it normally with some mechanical sympathy and sinply enjoying it, is unlikely to have any major issues.

Driving any car really hard, launches, drag strip runs or sinply driving it like its been stolen from cold all of the time is not good for any car whether stock or tuned. Mechanical sympathy has to come into play. This is why some cars with 50k+ mikes still feel like new and others sinply dont.

The thing to keep hold of here is that Torque is the general killer not BHP. But the MTM keeps this well within the cars components parameters in stock form. The JB4 for example takes this one step further for a tuning box in that it gives you the ability to keep torque lower in the first few gears, all for mechanical sympathy.

@ASRman ... With your car reflecting a strong torque value you are still within margins of the gearbox in standard non TCU form. If your car is performing well, is not throwing any errors ( as I would expect with the MTM ) just enjoy it my friend, just enjoy it!!!!

If you read the thread comparing boxes you will indeed note on the road we found very little to seperate the DTUK and MTM boxes under normal fast road conditions. Both offered an increase in performance on the PFL cars. Both were very effective and both go about it in slightly different ways. Of which some will like MTM over DTUK. My preference at the time was the MTM. The new kid on the block JB4 seems to offer a good mix of both boxes although I have not owned, driven or been in one so cant comment any further. Theee is however no doubt some will prefer the JB4 over either and the ability to tweak maps on the fly etc is a great offering. Its horses for courses. None of these are a substitute for a custom map, but do offer an increase in performance for Stage 1 with the flexibility to remove the devices, which then ofcourse have a 2nd hand / used value. Something which many people often forget about.

With regards to performance comparisons- Where the additional torque that some tunes might offer, would probably come into play would be on a drag strip launch and as you go over 100mph, where the higher torque would help push the car down the road.

As you have collated threads, here is another one from @batch when he had his MTM dyno’d at QST. Car made 370bhp/465Nm. ( with intake / Turbo elbow upgrades)

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/new-s3-ordered.245049/page-6

As I stated in a previous post, dont get too caught up in dyno numbers. My MTM car was a total pleasure to own and drive. Never missed a beat, never felt wanting and provided good performance, even when up against well known tuned cars from the like of Revo, MRC under normal road boundaries. Also note that even though my dyno numbers were slightly down compared to @batch and his car later had a down pip fitted. Both cars pulled incredibly well against each other and were impossible to seperate ( other than the noise that the Sports downpipe offered! ).

Just enjoy your car !
 
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