New owner after some advice

I used 6 ohm on each and have errors on both, am picking up 2 x 1 ohm from maplin shortly, hoping they sort it. This is purely for the error checking circuit, have you got resistors in parallel on your fogs as well? If so I would probably locate these near the lamps themselves due to heat buildup.


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Yeah. I installed them in the wheel arch and used splice quick connector in parallel with bulb. Found a wiring loom behind the inter coolers and attached the resistor to the metal bracket. Purposed used them maybe twice in over 2 years of ownership otherwise, coming/leaving home.
 
Ok, here are a few pics, hopefully have most of it covered:-

a3f8b5c902c2b55683ff4227b2aae8d6.jpg


Obviously take the 3 bolts holding the tray out, also remove the 2 that hold the fuse board in place, it's in the way if not.

38f24ecc8709aa8a768c426ed7fbfacc.jpg


The onboard power supply control unit is circled in red here.

2866208994eb9badb919384a3ef5eade.jpg


Remove 2 x 10mm nuts to get better access, you can flip the unit over towards you so you can access the connectors and cables more easily (remember, disconnecting the 12pin connector set my headlamp washers on permanent so disconnect the battery first if you want to disconnect the plug).

4a95c9193dccd277cd442701b480f6c9.jpg


Hopefully this is clear enough, I've circled the connectors I spliced in for the indicators in red, and for the fogs in green. This way I can remove the solution easily if required (just connect the connectors directly to bypass it).

372f385648a3d5ca77cdb23db503c863.jpg


Here is a pic of the box opened up as I was about to the replace the resistors, will refit this afternoon and test again!

FYI I used the ground point to the right of the footwell to provide ground to the device.


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That is grand bud. It is so convenient to find all in there.

The connectors you've circled can provide ground, right? Is there a point of splicing the wires to get positive feed only and ground from chassis?
Think I can get these kind of connectors on eBay or something and wire all in in a way so it's plug&play.
 
I don't know if there is ground on the connector itself so ground is from the point in the right, one connector handles the 2 indicators, the other handles the 2 fogs.

The connectors I have used are called Superseal and are available from 1 to 6 terminals that I have seen, you need a superseal crimp tool as well, a DuPont crimp tool doesn't work.


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I don't know if there is ground on the connector itself so ground is from the point in the right, one connector handles the 2 indicators, the other handles the 2 fogs.

The connectors I have used are called Superseal and are available from 1 to 6 terminals that I have seen, you need a superseal crimp tool as well, a DuPont crimp tool doesn't work.


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Can get them from eBay as already wired, so easy solder onto parts or wires and should work.

They are t pin ones, right?

You've circled two in red and two in green. Thought they are in pairs to follow each pair of lights (indicators and fogs)

Have I noticed correctly, you have purple foot well ambient lights?
 
Can get them from eBay as already wired, so easy solder onto parts or wires and should work.

They are t pin ones, right?

You've circled two in red and two in green. Thought they are in pairs to follow each pair of lights (indicators and fogs)

Have I noticed correctly, you have purple foot well ambient lights?

That is correct, so I cut the 2 wires for the indicators, attached a female plug to the end coming from the unit, and a male plug to the end coming from the harness. If I wanted to reverse the change I could just hook these together.

You have a keen eye! Yes I have been experimenting with different lighting ideas, I'm aiming to have a first A6 Purple Edition

Purple Brake Calipers
Purple stitching on the steering wheel
Purple ambient lighting from overhead
Purple footwell lighting

Currently working on the door ambient lights, struggling to get the light bright enough but I have ideas


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That is correct, so I cut the 2 wires for the indicators, attached a female plug to the end coming from the unit, and a male plug to the end coming from the harness. If I wanted to reverse the change I could just hook these together.

You have a keen eye! Yes I have been experimenting with different lighting ideas, I'm aiming to have a first A6 Purple Edition

Purple Brake Calipers
Purple stitching on the steering wheel
Purple ambient lighting from overhead
Purple footwell lighting

Currently working on the door ambient lights, struggling to get the light bright enough but I have ideas


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So, each pair of those connectors are for each (lefr/right) indicator and same for fogs?
Need to get as much info as possible, if you don't mind, as it will be impossible for me to measure any voltage there once battery disconnected.

Purple edition? That will be something unique.

I am struggling to get proper led for door ambient lights also. It is just over 3volts there so limited in options. Been to Maplins and got two different leds but they are same brightness as original white one. Found some online (eBay) but sold in 100's and voltage 3.7. It's not going to be bright enough.
Found another ones, the ones can be used to light up the speedometer but similar case, slightly higher input voltage needed.

I have also on my to-do list red stitching for gear box gaiter. Also a new knob on top of that, which will have red circle detail to match the stitching.
All to match red spot lighting from the front dome.
Other ambient lighting I have standard, white.
 
My plan for the door is to try using a step up transformer and feeding this to a 12V LED light strip which will be attached to the top of the clear plastic. Will let you know how it goes, will have to see what happens when the brightness is adjusted.


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My plan for the door is to try using a step up transformer and feeding this to a 12V LED light strip which will be attached to the top of the clear plastic. Will let you know how it goes, will have to see what happens when the brightness is adjusted.


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Found quickly few step up transformer you talking about. They go from 3-6volt and convert to ridiculous 400kV? What are you planning to use?

I also wanted to use 5050 led strip on top of the clear plastic, under the silver trim piece but quickly scrapped that when voltage was just 3volt. Even removed one of the leds from the 5050 strip and soldered wires to try out there. No luck either as they bright up properly with 3.7 volt.

Thought of 5mm led diode, not 3mm as original but think it may have same effect. Voltage for them is similar as 3mm size leds.
 
I tried a 5mm first, no better tbh.

However . . .

I was not thinking 400kV, however, more like 5V to 12V which are fairly commonplace (USB to 12V charging) but . . .

Just clicked the wrong button on Elsawin and found this:-

1b4df62f737cb5918e07ab4ed7aa4945.jpg


Looks like there is a voltage converter in each door, what's the betting it's reducing from a 12V supply?


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@KrisKrk ha ha major hijack! I dont know how you lot find the time!

Sean, I hardly manage tbh. I have to always find some excuses of what is needed to be done with the car. Only have limited answers tho.
My wife has no idea, not even a single clue of what I have done to the car. Mods meaning.
I’ve got my secret £££ stash and bit by bit do the stuff.
Not that I’m wiped or something but she hate when I do something to the car.

Also, have a 3 months old on board with a 3 year old so it’s very limited time I have got left.

Trying to also balance it with my wife’s attention needs. And of course, my needs

You had a newborn yourself, haven’t you Sean?


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I have mastered the art of skiving


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Haha. That the thing all men do, isn’t it?

I always call before coming back home, if there is some shopping to be done.
Classic


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@Steveredman would you mind throwing a diy/how to together soni can master the techniques!

@KrisKrk Yeah mate 3 week old, 5 year old and a 15, hardly find time to have a dump in peace never mind play cars! I always used to say, 'just nipping outside a sec somethings broke on the car' 2 hours later suspicions arise and a shout from the front door has me packing up!

Good work lads!
 
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I tried a 5mm first, no better tbh.

However . . .

I was not thinking 400kV, however, more like 5V to 12V which are fairly commonplace (USB to 12V charging) but . . .

Just clicked the wrong button on Elsawin and found this:-

1b4df62f737cb5918e07ab4ed7aa4945.jpg


Looks like there is a voltage converter in each door, what's the betting it's reducing from a 12V supply?


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Does this means, there is a way to bypass the converter, connect leds directly from 12v output and still be able to operate it as ambient light from mmi?


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Does this means, there is a way to bypass the converter, connect leds directly from 12v output and still be able to operate it as ambient light from mmi?


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Yes it does! Just tried it on my passenger door, made a bit of a mess soldering the wires to the LED strip so need to sort it tomorrow. There is a small black connector just behind the door trim close to where the original LED is. Simply chop the wires, solder some longer wires (so no connector anymore) on to them, pass through to hole and solder to the strip. Nice and bright on full power (in the MMI settings) and can then be dimmed as required


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@Steveredman would you mind throwing a diy/how to together soni can master the techniques!

@KrisKrk Yeah mate 3 week old, 5 year old and a 15, hardly find time to have a dump in peace never mind play cars! I always used to say, 'just nipping outside a sec somethings broke on the car' 2 hours later suspicions arise and a shout from the front door has me packing up!

Good work lads!

Happy to do this, I get so carried away when working on this sort of thing I barely stop for a breath, let alone to take photos, but I promise when the parts arrive that I'll be using to sort the back lights I'll take pics and write it up.


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@KrisKrk Yeah mate 3 week old, 5 year old and a 15, hardly find time to have a dump in peace never mind play cars! I always used to say, 'just nipping outside a sec somethings broke on the car' 2 hours later suspicions arise and a shout from the front door has me packing up!

Good work lads![/QUOTE]

My wife suspicions arise every time I come back from the car and say: “well, I managed to do it but it took me a while (couple of hours, no matter what it was) and I still haven’t finished it properly”. Than I throw in some technical language and explanations and she’s confused. Lol

Full house you’ve got there.
Congrats!




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Yes it does! Just tried it on my passenger door, made a bit of a mess soldering the wires to the LED strip so need to sort it tomorrow. There is a small black connector just behind the door trim close to where the original LED is. Simply chop the wires, solder some longer wires (so no connector anymore) on to them, pass through to hole and solder to the strip. Nice and bright on full power (in the MMI settings) and can then be dimmed as required


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Is it really that simple? Wow

Any pictures of the connectors and snipping point, please?

Door card need to come off or easy accessible from where the light plastic is?


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Is it really that simple? Wow

Any pictures of the connectors and snipping point, please?

Door card need to come off or easy accessible from where the light plastic is?


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Door card needs to come off, here is a pic of the inside of my rear driver's side door.

dd015b0d983630cb623f8297fd87bbbb.jpg


Red circle is where the the cable passes through to trim to the LED on the other side.

The blue is the connector, inside is a resistor which drops the voltage. Either removing the resistor or cutting the connector off and bypassing it would have the desired effect.


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@Steveredman I did mean a diy on your skiving techniques but yeah one for the relays would be great! Im sure there are a few people on here who would benefit.

@KrisKrk cheers mate, I too have confused her with technical jargon but it never seems to get me out the dog house!
 
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@Steveredman I did mean a diy on your skiving techniques but yeah one for the relays would be great! Im sure there are a few people on here who would benefit.

@KrisKrk cheers mate, I too have confused her with technical jargon but it never seems to get me out the dog house!

Sorry, I'm afraid the skiving is much more involved, but it mostly revolves around careful management of expectations


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Door card needs to come off, here is a pic of the inside of my rear driver's side door.

dd015b0d983630cb623f8297fd87bbbb.jpg


Red circle is where the the cable passes through to trim to the LED on the other side.

The blue is the connector, inside is a resistor which drops the voltage. Either removing the resistor or cutting the connector off and bypassing it would have the desired effect.


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Ah, now got it.
Thank you for that, Steve.
Will give it a go once other bits and pieces cleared out and better weather comes along.
Can possibly keep the plug and just tap into the wiring. Will see


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Done the reverse lights with relays last night and it is same success as with numberplate I had before.
Relay clicking is more noticeable and annoying though. Every time I stick the reverse gear in, it clicks and again when gear disengages.
Guess it might be down to the type of the relay as the one I used for the number plate leds is not as loud. I even wrapped all wiring and relays with wiring loom cloth Tesa tape.
All look oem in there now but thought it will also soundproof it a bit.
Might need to consider some sound proofing to ad on the tailgate.

If got a roll of it, might be useful on the doors, when I’ll tackle the ambient light upgrade.


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I bought a pair of these which arrived today, saw the website and was interested so I got in touch and organised getting them shipped to the UK, I have tested them today and they work great for the reversing lights, no click either

http://7-lights.de/shop/elektronik/sonstige/32/check-terminator-v1.2


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Now you telling me (!) lol
It is better than relays as works in parallel.
How much did it worked out in £££ landed at your door? Sold in pairs or individually?
Can they post more to UK?


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They charged me €14.90 for postage, sorry but I didn't want to say anything till I had received / installed / tested. I'm sure they would be happy to supply you, they were very helpful and speak (write) much better English than I do German. Just use the contact form on the site like I did. I also ordered the H11 adaptors for the foglights but have not tested yet (still getting errors on my fogs, even with relays). They also have an interesting Retrofit package for adding dynamic indicators to the front (looks like you replace the DRL LEDs with dual colour white / amber and install some kind of electronics to control it) but as it looks like you would need to open up the headlamp I'm not sure about it. Maybe if you tell them Stephen from Hull recommended them they'll give me a discount if I feel brave enough to do the headlights!!


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Yeah, read about the replacement drl circuits with indicators. It have to be done by hot cutting the headlamp and replacing the circuits. Seen company in Poland does it also for you.
I wouldn’t be brave enough to diy. Will probably mess up headlamp alignment with it. Lol
Fog connectors with their relay as plug&play would work perfectly, I think.

How come you get errors with relay on fogs? Is it from that box you did under the steering column?

I had one faulty relay, from 5 ordered.
Nice set of relays and whole wired plug to them, I got Thursday. All wired on reverse lights and when reverse gear disengaged and relay comes back to closed position, dis threw up errors like there was no resistor.
Used another relay and problem went. Swapped it again for the first one and error came back.
It must’ve been a fault in it so used new one and closed tailgate trim finally.
Has it in my boot loose for couple weeks now.

Those German relays seems to be a charm in indicators.
Ad on correct connectors and it should be easy.
€14.90 for postage and €15.00 per pair of these relays?
Pricey for a postage


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€15 for the pair and €14.90 for postage. I thought that was reasonable for international shipping.

I don't think they use a relay, have a feeling it is a capacitor inside and something else, maybe I should have dissected one! Anyway there is no click, no flash and no error on my reverse lights. I am not sure if it would work correctly on the indicators, could be worth asking? If it uses a capacitor then the flashing indicator signal might cause a problem.

You could be right about the relays, but the 2 for the fogs being faulty and the 2 for the indicators being ok seems like an odd situation. Anyway I now have these H11 check terminators so I'll give them a try.


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Recently ordered boot struts from AutoDoc and order came from Germany for just over £8.
This came via recorder/tracked UPS and for sure was heavier than those bits.
Not complaining as trying to understand shipping fee ratio to items weight.
With £ to € being nearly 1:1 it is hard for me to justify.

If them part are capacitors, they might be a problem on indicators, you are right.

At the moment used only 3 relays out of 5 ordered and 1 think is faulty. Will test it again on other light to be 100 sure.
Already reported the suspicion of an issue and once confirmed, will let them know I want a replacement of that one.
Here they are
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/272846052610

It might be a case of those you have also, they packed up.
They were working fine after the installation, right?


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Have any of you fitted wheel spacers? Have read someone recommend 10mm front and 12mm at the back but not sure if that would be OK with the le mans wheels.
 
My new wheels turned out to be ET35 and they stick out nicely.
Oem LeMans wheels were ET48.

Will try to take a picture along the side tomorrow


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Cheers mate, do they sit well front and back? If you could alter them at all would you? If your happy then maybe 12mm all around. So many plans so little time!
 
I noticed it right away they are protruding bit more than oem ones.
Personally think, it have the car more masculine look.
I wouldn’t change a thing now on them


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Just had a look at one of your pics with your new wheels, stance looks good so ill aim for something similar
 
As an addition, you might consider mud flaps also.
Experience shows, this might be necessary to fit on my car.

10mm spacer on each wheel will be fine in your case. Should end up with similar result as mines.


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Thats exactly what im after mate thanks for the pic, I installed some mud flaps a few weeks back so thats one off the list although they dont really seem to do much! They seem.to have just redirected the dirt elsewhere!
 
Thats exactly what im after mate thanks for the pic, I installed some mud flaps a few weeks back so thats one off the list although they dont really seem to do much! They seem.to have just redirected the dirt elsewhere!

Which mid flaps did you got?

Seen few models for ours C6


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