170 BMN Clutch

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WilkyA3

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Evenin all,

I had my car remapped and DPF removed by Darkside in March/April 2015. Running 197bhp and around 310ft/lb.

The car has now done 90k miles and I think the clutch may be ready for a change. When cruising at 60mph if I put my foot down I have some vibration, but only in 6th as if it doesn't like the torque. Another symptom would be if I put my foot down in 6th and so much as even tickle the clutch pedal is revs right round. Would these sound like correct symptoms? Anything I need to look out for or try?

The clutch was fine after the map and showed no signs of slipping on the dyno at about 78k miles.

I'm also wondering what i'd actually need to change, would I need the full kit including flywheel? or can I just change the plate? I'm pretty happy a standard clutch would see the life of the car out as 90k isn't too bad with the extra power is it?

All help will be appreciated!

Cheers,
Wilky.
 
It would be stupid not to change flywheel and the slave cylinder while the box is off. Also new flywheel to crank bolts are needed

Also you need to get a matching flywheel and clutch. If you get an LUK clutch you will have to get an luk flywheel.. same goes with Sachs
 
Im sure i`ve read somewhere on the forum that an LUK flywheel and a Sachs clutch plate is the way to go,dont quote me tho as im pretty new to all things audi...lol.
 
Really? I was told they had to be matching.. I'm picking up a new clutch and flywheel tomorrow so would like to know more on this also
 
Usually a clutch will grip until it's finished and (as the pressure plate is self adjusting to maintain constant clamping pressure on the disc).

My clutch lasted 130,000miles and was wafer thin when I took it out. I fitted a standard SACH flywheel/clutch and release bearing. This was December 2013, and in Sept 2015 I had DPF delete and remap and clutch was still ok for a whilte but started slipping after about 4months, sometimes does it quite bad, other times it doesn't seem to do it, but I do find I'm avoiding larger throttle in 4/5/6th gear from 2000rpm.

The 170 engine when remapped puts out torque that is borderline for a stock clutch. If it's at all weak it'll slip, but even a good one has a chance of slipping with well over 300lb/ft.

In anticipation I've bought a complete LuK setup (was about £300 off amazon for everyhintg inc flywheel), as this is what was stock on the car and I read somewhere than stock vs stock the LuK has a slightly higher torque rating than than the oe SACHS setup.
 
Thanks for your replies, i'm currently onto Darkside who are sorting me a price out for a standard SACHS clutch and flywheel kit.

Interesting what you say c_w as my concern is that i'll be here in 12 months needing a new clutch but my car mapped fine on the dyno with a standard clutch with 78k on it so that kinda gives me a bit of confidence.

Not sure I can justify the SACHS Performance Kit when i'm right on the cuff power wise!

edit: I've also heard a lot of fake SACHS kits are on ebay, you only have to look at some feedback of people to realise to keep away!
 
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