Removing number plate light connectors - how?

The Doctor

The Doctor

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Hi guys,

I've been meaning to repair the boot release pads / switches on my S3 for ages, and have finally found the time to do it. I've removed the inner plastic boot trim, the boot lock and released the bolts that hold the external plastic trim piece which holds the pads and number plate lights, and now I need to unplug the number plate light connectors.

I've given the wires a gentle tug, but they're not budging. I don't want to pull them harder in case the wires come out of the connector itself. Is there some magic technique to removing these connectors?

I've posted a couple of pics of the connectors below:



 
Aha - figured it out.

Just needed to prise it out by gently levering on the metal part of the connector with a small flat blade screwdriver:

 
Well, pads/switches are now removed, ready to be replaced. You can see how they've corroded, both at the connector terminals and also within the sprung metal part of the pad/switch itself. The connector terminals were completely corroded in the plastic housing.









There's some slight corrosion around the area where the switches insert through the boot lid, which I'll treat and re-paint before fitting the new pads/switches:





Anyway, at last I'm on my way to a working boot release again without having to resort to using the key every time!
 
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my boot release handles weren't working and was due to the central locking pump being tired. (it would work using the key fob holding the middle button for a few seconds)

have you looked at that?
 
Well having seen the corroded terminals, that's what I think the cause is, so I've ordered the following parts this morning;

8D0 827 565D (LHS switch)
8D0 827 566D (RHS switch)
8D0 827 358A (Gasket) x2
S8D0 972 623AA (Housing) x2
S000 979 018EA (wires/connectors) x2

Also ordered the parts to replace my window clips, because the passenger side decided to break shortly before Christmas so I'll do both sides whilst I'm at it;

4B0 827 463B (pair of clips) x2.

Once all that's done, I'll investigate the cause of the driver's side electric mirror adjustment not working, which has been on the job list for the last 5 years!
 
I had all that corrosion in mine too and used the opportunity when I repaired mine to clean behind the number plate surround properly. Good job!!!
 
Yep, good to clean out behind the trim. This coming year I'm planning to get under the car, clean off all the carp and then treat & re-seal any areas of corrosion using Bilt Hamber products. Will be posting updates on here and also on Detailing World in the Projects & Restorations section for anyone who's interested.
 
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