Manley connecting rods...non riffle drilled, any good?

Chlippo

Chlippo

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Thing is I can get a decent deal on a set of Manley connecting rods for my S3, but the prob is that they don't offer riffle drilling service.

I run a bbt Hybrid K04 and pretty much all the bolt-ons and we all know what's my max power figures.

The difference in price between those and IE riffle drilled one would be 200$.

what do you guys think?
 
absolutely everyone is going to tell you this is a bad idea, however... I recently saw a discussion about this on another page.

No one really had any horror stories and there were a good few people running non-drilled rods. One fella had two 20vt BT set ups both with non-drilled rods, one of them is a daily and has done over 30k with no troubles... Admittedly he did say he had additional squirter's and crank splash which helps

As I said, on paper this is a bad idea... But if it was me, I rekon I'd take the gamble

p.s massively expecting a slating for saying this!!! cue the abuse. . . .
 
The place that fitted my rods has rebuilt 100's of engines and only ever use scat rods. Mine arent rifle drilled and ive had no drama. Wasnt prepared to pay 20 % of the cars value on them.
The job was expensive enough as it was.
Only my view and my car is a track car .
Eagle rods
Scat
Maney
Ive researched them all when doing mine and never found a failure.
 
Rifle Drilling is there for a reason.

Strong yea, same as any forged rod, but small end wear WILL be higher than a "decent" rifle drilled rod.
There are also some kak design rifle drilled rods about to, which work Worse than non RD rods.. Beggars belief but is the truth.
 
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I must admit if my car was a daily i wouldnt have been so happy with non drilled.
I do around 1000-1500 miles a year. Mostly high reving which im told is better lubricating than say being sat in traffic etc?
 
you pays your money you takes your choice.......

its your car and you have to live with it

better to fit rods than not when pressing on..... RD or not..
 
The stock oil squirters have a check valve so they only open at higher RPM's (3000ish rings a bell) as they're based on oil pressure.

Evidently on a car thats used hard, high RPM's and whatnot, theres plenty oil getting sloshed around and it'll probably be fine.

Its the daily driven cars which are running at low RPM's where the squirters arent open all the time that are going to suffer most from non-drilled rods

However, I dont know why anyone would chose to downgrade the factory lubrication when upgrading an engine, seems completely counter intuitive to me.
 
I have my own theory on the oil lubing the little end.

People seem to have no problem running Scat, Manley, Crower, k1, etc non rifle drilled rods.

Main difference between them and the IE non drilled rods is they either have 2 oil holes in either side of the rod or one oil hole at the end of the rod.
IE rods have all 3 holes.
My theory which is based on nothing but conjecture is that the 3 holed IE designs pushes all the oil out under compression and they definately require rifle drilling to maintain oil lubing of the small end.

Totally not based on science just observation
 
Are there multiple failures of the other non drilled rods?

I'm genuinely interested
 
Are there multiple failures of the other non drilled rods?

I'm genuinely interested
 
antwan64og said:
Are there multiple failures of the other non drilled rods?

I'm genuinely interested
Click to expand...
Failures as in breaking, none I've seen.

Developing small end rattle, yea, I've heard many of them, BUT also several which had rifle drilled of a crap design (oil groove + hole in the top of the rod stylee)
 
Fit riffle drilled rods and new pins if you can then you can just forget when done

I made that mistake and ended up replaying my rods with ones Bill supplied me
 
What make though?

They are all if different designs, just trying to gather information on those that definately are prone to failure
 
Al pagparts explains it well with pics, Scat rods below showing small end bush wear

"Scats are decent rods. But without drilling, around the 10k mark, under normal conditions, they show signs of wear. Here are a couple in the same set that exhibits some heat marks due to high boost/rpm conditions where it wasnt getting adequate oiling.

rod_bush_heat.jpg


Here is another in the Scat rod from another set that succumbed to this lack of lubrication over the long haul under high boost and rpm conditions...

rod_bearing_owned.jpg


Thankfully, Scat uses decent rod bushings (which I cannot say for many of the rods offered these days) which do last a while even under these conditions but it is always not a question of if but when..."


So I stand corrected,
Lots of peope use them trying to save some money though
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6880424-Scat-rods&p=84522907

Personally i think the IE H beam design looks flawed, especially if you add another hole for forced pin oiling

integrated_engineering_connecting_rods_154x21_8cyl_2_3.jpg


IE Tuscans will be my first choice
TUSCAN.png


Followed by Brute
100_1282.jpg


I'd get the Brute I beams if they're available (cheaper than Tuscsns). From testing I've seen gram for gram I-beams are stronger, so the rod can weigh abit less, still be as strong and will rev slightly quicker
 
The H beam Ie rod you picture is a non RD rod...

The RD ones dont have a top hole. Ones which have oil groove + hole in the top are the ones which guide the oil round the groove and out of the top of the rod, oil taking the easiest route, and not floating the pin like the OE lube design has.

I used Eurospec rods back in 2004 on first motor build.. non RD as not many folks even offered them then.. Small end rattle was prevalent, but they survived the motor just was an annoying little rattle which I lived with. Better to fit a forged rod than not at all or "hoping" they will be ok. But choose what you want to spend vs spec.
 
I am waiting on a price (including shipping overseas) from IE suppliers, and will then take a decision, knowing the consequences.
 
Badger5 was/is a uk distributor for IE, i'd get a quote from him.

Don't forget the customs charges to add on top if you order from overseas. If the product and shipping are stated in value to be over £135 combined add duty and taxes.

Notes on duty & taxes rates
  • Car Parts has an import duty rate of 2.7% and a VAT rate of 20% .

Bill that RD design of the H beams makes more sense!
 
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