MFD28 Digital display unit

[TrueSoft]

Trying to fit this piece of kit to my 1.8T S3 2003 8L
Write up and display looks unreal and there is an option to control the haldex drive I plan to fit after I get it working.
Tried all day to get it working but sadly failed
I connected can high and low to pins 5-6 respectively to the grey connector on the dash.
No communication, can anyone point me in the right direction.
many thanks

 

[<tuffty/>]

8L comms are K-Line... CAN is only used for the dash to communicate with the radio...

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

Thanks
Any Ideas as to where to go from here.
Thanks

 

[<tuffty/>]

If its supposed to display ECU data then you are boned as far as I can tell... if its a can based system then that wasn't fully implemented until the 8P

Looks more designed for standalone ECU's tbh... not convinced about the Haldex stuff either as it cannot directly comms to it as the Haldex uses more than just some can signal...

Controllers like the HPA sit inbetween the comms from the car to the haldex controller so will accept comms coming in and send its own version out to give the required mode of use... if that unit just trys to fudge the signal somehow you will have issues with ABS etc

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

Oh Dear.
Expensive mistake.
Is there a serial interface on the 8L
Many thanks for reply and spoiling my night

 

[<tuffty/>]

K-Line only for normal comms... no serial interface that I know of...

Can't you send it back?

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

I spoke to chap at Turbozentrum before I purchase, he assure me it fitted my car, I should off done me research.
Will phone them on Monday to see if I can return it.
Really wanted it to work.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Well... unless they have a suggestion on how to get it working dude... Sure it may 'fit' but unless you have a CAN compatible ECU then I can't see how it will work personally...

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

I assume you tried swapping can high/low around just in case?... also did you twist the wires going between the unit and the cluster as CAN comms needs twisted pair to minimise interference

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

Thanks Tuffy for your valued feedback even if you think or know I am wasting my time

I used 1mm Sq twisted pair for connection to pin 5-6 on grey connector without any success
On the dash I have 3 cables clusters, Blue, Grey and Green,
Interesting on the grey plug the pinouts are detailed as
5 - CAN high speed display (high +)
6 - CAN high speed display (low -)
and on the Green
18 - CAN high speed (powertrain) (high +)
19 - CAN high speed (powertrain) (low -)
22 - CAN low speed (comfort) (high +)
23 - CAN low speed (comfort) (low -)
I am wasting my time trying to connect to the other "can connections"
So it looks like they are there on paper
Will make a phone call on Monday and report back

 

[TrueSoft]

Okay, Spoke to Rob at TurboZenTrum, he spoke to Germany and they said.
It does work but must be connected to the Green cluster on
18 - CAN high speed (powertrain) (high +)
19 - CAN high speed (powertrain) (low -)
Will try again this evening and get back here.
Lets hope !

 

[TrueSoft]

It WORKS
for those interested here is link to see it, truesoft.co.uk/s3/MFD28.mp4
I have just fitted FMIC and if you hear carefully, as rpm decline, there is a ssshhwww noise, thinks its a leak, not sure as I also fixed exhaust gasket, maybe it was always there.
Main thing is it works

 

[TrueSoft]

If its supposed to display ECU data then you are boned as far as I can tell... if its a can based system then that wasn't fully implemented until the 8P

Hmm. hopefully we learn all the time.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Got it working then?

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

After speaking to Canchecked, I got it working but with very little functionality.
Basically all it would display is what is already on my dash with a few extra's like oil temp and TPS.
They are working on a K-line interface box but said it is still in development.
They accepted it was not as described for the 8L and have agreed a full refund.
Tuffy I and boned and eating humble pie.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Shizz happens dude... this is why hopefully this forum is still useful to people despite current trend of people using Facebook...

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

facebook ppfff

 

[<tuffty/>]

Dunno what you mean... everyone is an expert on Facebook

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

Got loads of questions I would love to ask you.
As a beginner, what is worth doing to improve HP, what is a safe reliable HP to achieve, and what modes you where impressed with the most to mention few.
My engine is a Bam 1.8 tuned by ABT, How do I read ECU to see what has been done.
Left work tonight cold and as I changed to second it popped a few times, never done it before.
I have just fitted Badger 80mm tip and intake filter with heat shield.
Love it, Can I make it pop more if I fit a switch to turn off temp sensor
just to mention a few

 

[<tuffty/>]

Left work tonight cold and as I changed to second it popped a few times, never done it before.
I have just fitted Badger 80mm tip and intake filter with heat shield.
Love it, Can I make it pop more if I fit a switch to turn off temp sensor
just to mention a few

...I'll answer this one first.... don't do that... the air temp is a sensor the ECU relies on to ensure things are running safe... by disabling it all you will do is make the ECU use protection data that will reduce the power and way the engine runs...

Got loads of questions I would love to ask you.
As a beginner, what is worth doing to improve HP,

Open ended question but on stock engine/turbo its typically Badger5 80mm TIP and airfilter, FMIC and 3" down pipe... plus mapping to suit (an I mean custom maps done on a dyno rather than ones by a man in a van)

what is a safe reliable HP to achieve,

Again a little open ended and subject to many variables... I had over 600hp out of my 20v in my S3... but obvs it wasn't stock... HP is'nt really the factor in engine reliability... power is derived from torque and torque is the big engine killer... again assuming you stick to stock engine/turbo then a decent map on the mods I mentioned should net you on average 270/280 hp if your engine and turbo are in decent running condition.... and that is the main reason I would suggest custom mapping over a staged generic flash and go map as it will take into account your engine and turbo condition... on stock rods I wouldn't like to see spiky torque delivery... not sure what Bill prefers to set as his comfortable maximum on stock engines these days but I don't believe it to be more than 270/280ftlbs

and what modes you where impressed with the most to mention few.
My engine is a Bam 1.8 tuned by ABT, .

Badger 5 TIP and FMIC are generally the best hardware mods along with a suitable map

How do I read ECU to see what has been done.

Well... There is nothing particularly user friendly available to be able to visualise ME7 map software... ME7 maps are rather complex and need a little more caution... I would suggest if you have an interest in ME7 tuning to head over to NefMoto (google that) and have a look there... also look at the S4 Wiki tuning section as that pretty much covers the ME7 tuning approach... there are subtle differences between the S4 and S3 setups in this case (wideband lambda etc) but the principles are the same.

Also should mention that technically pulling someone else map and playing wit it could be in breach of ABT's terms and conditions as its their intellectual rights... its a grey area fo sho but just something to be mindful of and why we don't typically allow active discussion of this kind of thing on ASN

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

Thanks Tuffy for info and pointing me in the right direction
I have just fitting Badger 5 tip and intake filter, I already have a FMIC fitted
I am rebuilding a Spare Bam engine. Just stripped it and found a bent rod, no surprise.

I plan to large port head, new valves and springs. 82mm pistons and rods. new injectors.
build a tubular exhaust manifold, and 3" downpipe.
bigger turbo and a Badger remap.
Head I can do myself, on milling machine and finish with hand tools.
Suggestions or recommendations on where to send the block for rebore.
I would like Min of 380Hp to max 450Hp
can you recommend some parts that would match these requirements.
I know from your blog you went up and up the HP range, Do you have any second hand part that you would be willing to sell that would suit my build.
Kind regards

 

[<tuffty/>]

No suggestions on a machine shop off hand... I know Bill gets his done by Anderson Race Engines though

Parts wise if aiming for 450hp tops then a Garrett G25-550 turbo, 45mm wastegate, Ignitron ECU..

No parts left to sell I'm afraid

<tuffty/>

 

[TrueSoft]

Conclusion: MFD28 is boned until an update of some sort from CanCheched, great product for other cars but not currently for the 8L in my opinion.
I was going to start my own my own small mod, Bud Tuffy has covered it all!!
I agree we need an Index

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/

The read has been a roller-coaster of information by people who actually do it.
What a great forum.