Colour screen mod for cluster

I’ve ordered a blue 32 pin connect with trailing wires, this is so I can bench test the clusters I’ve bought. Can I hook it up to any form of 12v feed. Spare car battery for instance.


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I’ve ordered a blue 32 pin connect with trailing wires, this is so I can bench test the clusters I’ve bought. Can I hook it up to any form of 12v feed. Spare car battery for instance.


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If just to power up yes, if for reading/writing EEPROM just make sure it’s a battery that’s in good condition with a steady voltage and plenty of charge. If you lose power halfway through an EEPROM read/write you risk bricking the cluster.
 
we can all just do this :grinning: instead of messing around with a6 clusters



they had it available in kit form and even posted instructions on how to make it with a breadboard
 
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If just to power up yes, if for reading/writing EEPROM just make sure it’s a battery that’s in good condition with a steady voltage and plenty of charge. If you lose power halfway through an EEPROM read/write you risk bricking the cluster.

Thanks warren, this will purely be just to check they work, as for reading and writing I’ll be doing this plugging into the car.

Which pinouts should I be hooking up to the battery mate?

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So that’s the answer then... change to a RNS-E LED (Mk2) - 8E0035193. A costly way to keep time.


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What isn’t costly with the 8l. I can do without I have my watch phone and cluster if I need the time, I’m not going to spend hundreds of £ to get the mk2 rnse for that and the simple a6 cluster mod has turned into a ball ache as long as the rnse info is displayed in the dash that will do me for now and maybe when she’s up and running il get the mk2 rnse
 
Thanks warren, this will purely be just to check they work, as for reading and writing I’ll be doing this plugging into the car.

Which pinouts should I be hooking up to the battery mate?

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we can all just do this :grinning: instead of messing around with a6 clusters



they had it available in kit form and even posted instructions on how to make it with a breadboard


Not very fast is it lolololol

<tuffty/>
 
What isn’t costly with the 8l. I can do without I have my watch phone and cluster if I need the time, I’m not going to spend hundreds of £ to get the mk2 rnse for that and the simple a6 cluster mod has turned into a ball ache as long as the rnse info is displayed in the dash that will do me for now and maybe when she’s up and running il get the mk2 rnse

I agree mate, I’ve spent a few hundred on the car this year I wasn’t intending to haha. I think I’ll make do for the time being, once the RNS-E mk2 come down in price, I’ll entertain the idea.


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we can all just do this :grinning: instead of messing around with a6 clusters



they had it available in kit form and even posted instructions on how to make it with a breadboard


Well this is very festive haha...


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I run a mk2 rns-e in a pre face lift car with face lift cluster and have no trouble with time sync on the rnse

Is your mk2 rnse a revision B? Did you downgrade the software and do you have it coded as an a6? Is the gala wire connected?
Do you have a navigation disc in it? Is your arrival time correct when using navigation?

Sorry for all the questions
 
Is your mk2 rnse a revision B? Did you downgrade the software and do you have it coded as an a6? Is the gala wire connected?
Do you have a navigation disc in it? Is your arrival time correct when using navigation?

I can answer for him with my set up,MK2 RNS-E...193B with GALA wire attached.

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threa...d-my-baby-is-home.261997/page-12#post-3273648

Mine has been downgraded,coded A6,upgraded....all time in sync map and DIS in agreement.
 
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Just curious gents, but is there any reason why you wouldn’t use a A3 PD130 cluster? @syncro mentioned having one, but must be a reason why he’s decided to use an A6 instead.


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Just curious gents, but is there any reason why you wouldn’t use a A3 PD130 cluster? @syncro mentioned having one, but must be a reason why he’s decided to use an A6 instead.

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Wouldn’t it give the same issue with the time sync if it’s an 8l
 
Wouldn’t it give the same issue with the time sync if it’s an 8l

Yeah I’m ignoring that time sync issue, as long as the clock on the cluster tells the time how I set it, I don’t care to much about the RNS-E.... but if the A3 PD130 cluster is a viable option, seems mad it wasn’t suggested from the get go, it has the white led and red needle combo, has all the right displays, minus the foils.


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The hole thing with the cluster started with a way round the time sync issue then it all just got messy! Ha
 
Exactly, now back to basics, S3 cluster you can use your original obviously. But as an alternative and personal preference of led colours. I’ve opted for the A4 B5 facelift, which is great, but then I need to drop it into my original cluster. But if you could just buy an PD130 cluster, code it, change the EEPROMS and the foils and you’ve got a nice, clean, white led, red needle cluster with ColorMFA. Then surely that’s a much easier solution and just ignore the time sync issue which to me now seems like a problem not worth loosing sleep over


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Why not just change the led’s when you do the ColorMFA? If you can fit a ColorMFA then changing some led’s on a PCB should be a breeze.
 
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Why not just change the led’s when you do the ColorMFA? If you can fit a ColorMFA then changing some led’s on a PCB should be a breeze.

Haha that’s the reason why I’m looking for an alternative, I’m not confident enough to do it. Soldering 2 wires together is one thing, but stripping a PCB properly and then soldering some small wires in various places to fit the ColorMFA is another. I was kind of thinking on the lines of sending a cluster over to Ian for him to fit and send back.


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Why not just change the led’s when you do the ColorMFA? If you can fit a ColorMFA then changing some led’s on a PCB should be a breeze.

Changing the led’s - without damaging them - is not as easy as it sounds. There’s quite a lot of solder holding them on with the ideal method of removal being to heat up both sides at once.

I believe it to be a stuff around of an option

Yes the A3 cluster is viable as long as they’re the 3 plug version /digital clock. The wirings are based on A3/A4.

My first couple of batches of colormfa were labelled “A3” ...
 
Yeah I’m ignoring that time sync issue, as long as the clock on the cluster tells the time how I set it, I don’t care to much about the RNS-E.... but if the A3 PD130 cluster is a viable option, seems mad it wasn’t suggested from the get go, it has the white led and red needle combo, has all the right displays, minus the foils.


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That cluster is in my daily driver a3 130 sport
 
So the problems with the a6 cluster are that the esp light does not work and the door/bonnet/boot open symbols do not show in the display, are there any other issues?

I’ve looked at pictures of the central locking/convenience module of c5 a6 on eBay, maybe this sends the signals over can network to the dis to show if a door is open? It must not be done through can on an s3 cluster and this is the wiring difference of the 8l and c5 colour displays?

When fitting the colour display can this just be wired as it would be in an s3 so that it will display the door open symbols?
 
That cluster is in my daily driver a3 130 sport

Yeah that’s what I thought mate, I remember you mentioning it further up. So if your not bothered by the time sync fandango and want white led and red needle display, this is a perfect solution. I’m actually going to make a Frankenstein cluster! Watch this space


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I just plugged in a non can pre-facelift s3 cluster to my s3 and the door symbols are showing up (the traction/esp light has been disabled in this cluster by a previous owner or dodgy mechanic)

I also have a pre-facelift 1.6 petrol a3 with half height display in the non can cluster so I plugged that one in too, the traction/esp light works in this and the door open symbols work, this would suggest the s3 facelift cluster does not use can to operate the traction light or the door open symbols

I’m not going to chuck the c5 a6 cluster away just yet, I’m going to ask an electronic engineer friend of mine have a look at the s3 and c5 boards and see if he can make the traction light work as it should in an s3, he has already volunteered to fit the colour display for me.
 
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Yeah that’s what I thought mate, I remember you mentioning it further up. So if your not bothered by the time sync fandango and want white led and red needle display, this is a perfect solution. I’m actually going to make a Frankenstein cluster! Watch this space


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I’m very bothered by the time sync fandango!
 
The time on the rnse is usually wrong, it annoys me most if using navigation and the arrival time is wrong, I know it’s only a small issue but I want to fix it.
 
The time on the rnse is usually wrong, it annoys me most if using navigation and the arrival time is wrong, I know it’s only a small issue but I want to fix it.

Ah right ok, fair enough. Well hopefully you do find a fix for us all. In the meantime I’m gonna call it a day and just get the cluster with ColourMFA


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Can anyone point me in the right direction for the coding/adaptation for the cluster lighting? I want my new cluster to be permanently illuminated like my old one was but struggling to find any info on the tinterweb.
 
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Knocked up the initial bench harness for the cluster....
IMG 20181125 151035

IMG 20181125 152244


Left some extra cables to add the plugs for the wheel module and the BT module when they arrive...



<tuffty/>
 
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Knocked up the initial bench harness for the cluster....
View attachment 170612
View attachment 170613

Left some extra cables to add the plugs for the wheel module and the BT module when they arrive...



<tuffty/>


Really smart dude, I’m gonna have to do it the old fashioned way and plug it into the car. I have bought a complete harness to plug into the back of the clusters, but still can’t make head or tails of what I’m running to 12v feeds and which I’m running to negative. Is that a PC PSU you’ve got it plugged into?


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Well I’ve got 3 instrument clusters now! Haha, I’m probably going to send back the A6 cluster unless we find the way around the door contacts and traction control situation. But these are the 2 intend to use, I may have a PCB spare at the end will have to see.

This is the A4 B5 facelift petrol and the A3 8L PD130 cluster.
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My intentions are to use the A3 clusters and the A4’s foils with a bit of S3 modification, more on that next week. But depending on the “Whiteness” between the two PCB’s I will use which ever looks whiter, if you catch my meaning.


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What are we thinking chaps, aluminium rings or no aluminium rings?
9e0f1a63c71988658b4cc5ee869b7210.jpg
9e791a98f6e6137fe8919f0642b1db8a.jpg



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Is your mk2 rnse a revision B? Did you downgrade the software and do you have it coded as an a6? Is the gala wire connected?
Do you have a navigation disc in it? Is your arrival time correct when using navigation?

Sorry for all the questions
no mate it’s 193 g

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@IanPG While we all patiently wait for our ColorMFA’s can you give us any insight into creating and using a custom boot logo? :thumbs up:
 

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