Phil3
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Can someone help me ..
I ordered it today and I get an email with instructions to test something out.
This is what they write to me.
" Thanks for your order,
due to multiple configurations of the RS3 FL , we need you to make some checks on your car, so the correct parts can be sent.
From the loom/wiring which plugs into the valves, we will need to know, which pins have the circuit and which resistance measured at 20ohms
maybe you will find the circuit on pin 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 , let us know.
You will need to have access to a multi meter, is that something you're comfortable to do?"
AudiNutta,
have you already done a test drive?
Noooo don’t just pull it... there’s a little clip to press in and then they will pull apart easy! Going back together you just need to put it in until you hear the clip set back in place
Yea it’s a nice little improvement to the note of the exhaust for a very little cost mate... get the plugs bought and fitted
haha why do people do it! Wasn’t that long ago I was sitting in traffic going to work and the car in front was a Seat Leon ‘Type R’
The listing in the OP are;
1 link to the fault code delete plugs (x2)
...and...
1 link to some blanking plugs (x2)
It’s so you have a plug/blank in each of the parts you’ve disconnected if you get me
But... I've only unplugged one thing on either side...
Sounds like I'm going to have to get back under the bumper.
Yea that’s right mate... but you need the 2 delete plugs to plug into the parts on the valves... and then the 2 blanks to plug into the end of the cables you’ll tuck out the way
Frighteningly obvious. Thank you. I'm going to hide from these forums for a little while now.
Just thought I'd post a quick walkthrough in case anyone wants to do this but is a little unsure. Basically, you'll need the two parts in OP.
The two parts look like this:
View attachment 166781
The longer of these fits onto the connector at the end of the loose wire. The shorter one fits into the exhaust valve controller itself.
From there, you'll need to start the car and cycle through to dynamic mode. You should hear the valves open. I did this with the engine running, but you'd probably be wise to just pop it in park and wait for the start stop to kill the engine. Just be aware it might pop back on. There's no reason you should get a face full of smoke as you can get right under the bumper from the side (excluding those with huge heads).
From there, you'll simply need to find the cable with a kind of ribbed rubber outing. Don't just yank it out, there's a clip on one side of it kind of like pulling out an ethernet cable or an old school telephone cable. Depress that and gently pull the cable out. It doesn't require much force.
From there, fit the longer part onto the dangly cable termination (official Audi terminology) like so:
View attachment 166782
Then, slide the smaller part into where you took the cable out, like so:
View attachment 166783
Finally, cable tie the dangly part off, as otherwise it will be swinging in the breeze and prone to destruction... like so:
View attachment 166784
I will probably recable-tie this a little better when I next go to my car as I don't like how it just dangles down like that (even though it is 'the dangly bit'). That's pretty much job done. Start your car and cycle through the modes and you should notice that the car no longer has the valves opening and closing.
If I've missed anything, do let me know.
Top tip, tuck the loose end of the cable up into the hole in the chassis member you see behind it in your picture.. job done.
Good idea! Job for tomorrow. I'll edit with a new picture too.
On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in
On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in
On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in
The revs dip on mine for a moment after the first couple of minutes running if left idled, for example in the time it takes to lock the garage back up. Always done it..
I'm leaving mine plugged in until Audi resolve this issue, Although I'm waiting for confirmation it is actually a new part as some have had it replaced and still had the issue.
Saying that, I am getting paint flake off the exhaust now so i'm very pi**ed off as it is!
I have just picked my RS3 up and I too have noticed the exhaust rattle. Have you, or anyone else for that matter, had and resolution from Audi on this matter?
Mine does the same , sounds like the cars misfiring? Anybody else get this??On idle for a few minute I get a slight stutter as if it wants to cut out,so does this mean I’ve got the wrong ones in
Mine does the same , sounds like the cars misfiring? Anybody else get this??
Mine are fine mate, when did you order them, the very early deliveries had the pins in the wrong place, I sent mine back after they confirmed they were the old model, and have had no issues at all with the new plugs.
They informed me it was very early orders that were wrong, Jan 18, and they corrected from the Feb 18 onwards (mine are from start of Feb)
When did you buy your first set mate? @zaka7
Same as you mate, Start of feb, and when I contacted them they said to send them back and they'd look, they reviewed and sent me the new ones no issues with them now, and make the car sound how it should!! Under 3k revs anyway cause over the flaps obviously would be open.
I’ve never had, or noticed any problems with my early Feb 18 ones... but looks like I’m in the 50/50 lot as to whether they’re the right ones or not... I’ll get them sent off next Monday and have them checked... for the sake of posting them it’s better to be sure
I didn’t check some time ago for fault codes and there was nothing present, but I’ll find out for curtain go from there!
Worth it mate. Nothing to lose.
Worth it mate. Nothing to lose.