injectors on 1.8t

aragorn said:
saab reds for the T28?
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Hmmmmm.. I might be taking a different route now.

As I can't really go above 300HP with the standard engine internals I might as well go for it with the outlaw/sp51x but with new injectors, 3" MAF housing and new map?.. should be good for a reliable 280 - 290.
 
if you DO actually get 280hp from a outlaw then cool, but look at it this way, The T28 will to 290-300max, and its a LOT larger than the outlaw....

I just dont think its possible.

Mark was spiking silly boost with it and it wasnt running lean, so even with a better map is there really all that much more to be had?
 
Oranoco said:
If you fit injectors other than stock at the very least you will need a MAP writing to operate the injectors correctly. At best you would suffer a loss of power at worse you may borewash the engine which will render it as scrap.
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I've had a remap from Ecu-evolution, if I was to fit a set of C20LET yellow tops will this cause engine problems as stated by Oranoco. I'm guessing that the Saab Red-tops would be over doing it slightly, I'm only pushing about 220bhp. I want to put something in so that I'm not pushing the stock injectors to the limit.
 
aragorn said:
if you DO actually get 280hp from a outlaw then cool, but look at it this way, The T28 will to 290-300max, and its a LOT larger than the outlaw....

I just dont think its possible.

Mark was spiking silly boost with it and it wasnt running lean, so even with a better map is there really all that much more to be had?
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I know this but I like to be optimistic lol.

The SP51X is meant to outperform a K04-023 which with the right setup can give 280HP so in theory it is possible.

So you obviously think I should still go T28?.. anyway the Red Tops should be good for that too.
 
gaz71 said:
I've had a remap from Ecu-evolution, if I was to fit a set of C20LET yellow tops will this cause engine problems as stated by Oranoco. I'm guessing that the Saab Red-tops would be over doing it slightly, I'm only pushing about 220bhp. I want to put something in so that I'm not pushing the stock injectors to the limit.
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The problem is that the ECU wont know you've changed the injectors, so when you fit the larger ones, it will still run them at full bore, but now injecting a LOT more fuel. Then things go to ****!

You'd need to have the car remapped with the new injectors fitted, and the map adjusted appropriately.


Lee: I really do think the T28 will give a much better end result.
 
anyone know the what size the tt 225bhp injectors are as my mate has a spare set, obviously still need to remap it
 
ye, the AJL is an AEB with a K03s turbo.

I think the injectors on the later cars are longer. I'm sure i've heard mention of rail spacers for the later cars to allow fitment of commonly available uprated EV1 injectors
 
great i'll look for a cheap set of c20let one's, anyone know what the other colours flow rates are as a friend has some blue c20let one's
 
Blue isnt a C20LET color i dont think. From memory, the blue injectors were fitted to dispak equipped C20XE's. Unless its something like the newer VXR injectors?
 
jamie226bhp said:
anyone know how much the c20let one's are new as i'm always dubious buying second hand unless i know the source
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Nothing wrong with buying used.

What's daft is fitting them without getting them ultrasonically cleaned, and flow-tested.

Even brand new injectors have a shelf life, and are not usually kept in stock. They're ordered as and when needed. If I bought brand new, I'd still get them flow tested, as a matter of course.
 
sorry mines an a3 quattro sport 2002 i have just been researching and firstly i am in the wrong forum lol, and secondly they are ev6 injectors, cheers anyway.
 
Siena said:
I'd still get them flow tested, as a matter of course.
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is there an easy way to do this? I remember seeing a clip with four coke bottles.
do they just bridge the fuel pump relay or something?
how do you get them to come on fully without a seperate loom and rig set up?
 
Baby bottles, with cc markings work well...

Bridging the fuel pump relay is the easy bit...the challenge comes from holding the injectors open, seeing as the ECU supplies a negative trigger, and one side is switched 12V+ (term. 15).

If you choose to hold them open by applying an earth to the trigger side of the injectors, make sure you unplug the ECU before you do so, else you'll fry the injector drivers, the moment you turn the ignition on! You just switch the ignition on, with your earth on the trigger side of the injectors, the other side feed is supplied via ignition. Trigger sides are the wires that are different colors on all the injectors, the common colors (white) will be the 12V feed.

You can rig up a seperate harness - on a 4 cylinder, pretty easy, just need 4 AMP plugs, if you don't fancy pulling your ECU out.

Obviously, you'll need the injector rail raised high enough to get your measuring jars / cups under the nozzles...
 
Siena said:
Baby bottles, with cc markings work well...

Bridging the fuel pump relay is the easy bit...the challenge comes from holding the injectors open, seeing as the ECU supplies a negative trigger, and one side is switched 12V+ (term. 15).

If you choose to hold them open by applying an earth to the trigger side of the injectors, make sure you unplug the ECU before you do so, else you'll fry the injector drivers, the moment you turn the ignition on! You just switch the ignition on, with your earth on the trigger side of the injectors, the other side feed is supplied via ignition. Trigger sides are the wires that are different colors on all the injectors, the common colors (white) will be the 12V feed.

You can rig up a seperate harness - on a 4 cylinder, pretty easy, just need 4 AMP plugs, if you don't fancy pulling your ECU out.

Obviously, you'll need the injector rail raised high enough to get your measuring jars / cups under the nozzles...
Click to expand...

sounds easier to give it to someone who knows howto do it :icon_thumright:
 
Or you could build your own testing rig using an old fuel pump, fuel rail and regulator and 4 baby bottles. That way you can take them off the car, pop them in your "rig" and also means you can run cleaning fluid thru them rather than plain old petrol!
 
tonyjohnson said:
sorry mines an a3 quattro sport 2002 i have just been researching and firstly i am in the wrong forum lol, and secondly they are ev6 injectors, cheers anyway.
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You sure they're EV6?

EV6 are a direct replacement for EV1's but have a different electrical connector and a slimmer body.

I suspect the A3 will have EV12's which are shorter than EV1/6's, and its EV12's the TT and later A4 motors use afaik.

EV12's are shorter than EV1/6
 
I know for certain the a3 injectors use a different seat and are not as long on the nose. Its why us poor AEB boys can't use TT/S3 injectors
 
I dont think the seat is that different, its just the EV12's are shorter.

When fitting aftermarket injectors to an A3/TT you just space the fuel rail out then use the EV1/6 style injectors.
 
Nah the seat is different mate ( At least everything i have read on the Zine says so, and they do a lot more tweaking than us) .Also it's not interchangelabe, some guys have managed to "machine" the seat for the injectors to sit in without falling through, but it's far from ideal.
 
ev1ev12.jpg


Thats the difference between EV1 and EV12.

The steel nozzle on the end of the EV12 will affect the spray pattern a little compared with a EV1 installed at the same depth. I've seen aftermarket EV1's with the same nozzle though, so its not unique to EV12's
 
well the AEB/AJL are rated at 212 iirc @ 3 bar so in reality we get around 240. and i think the 225's are 310 @ 3 bar which is what the TT is, so in ours its true they will flow more.
 
do you know what year a4's had the 4 bar fpr as i need one before my remap.
 
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