What have you done to your A3 (8p) this week

I was going to do it the cheaper way but by the time you add up parts and additional hardware I just though sod it for the sake of a few hundred quid. Keep it OEM with the high line. I wasn’t sure about those LED cameras as my OCD would be bad if the LED isn’t the same brightness as the opposite side
Mate I got pumpin head unit. Just over £300 camera and other bits probably £80 then my time leds spot on both side equal light

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Mate I got pumpin head unit. Just over £300 camera and other bits probably £80 then my time leds spot on both side equal light

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Sorry pumpkin head unit
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Q7 RVC: 4L0 980 551
A6/Q7 door handle: 4L0 827 574
R8 control unit: 420 910 441
RNS-E mk2: 8P0 035 193 C.
 
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But back to my Q; what revision camera did you install?
 
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Many have done it. It’s no secret no. There is a lot of information online which is how I done it. The information is there. I spent days looking for the right information so less hate and more reading
 
Fitted leds into the interior and number plate lights. I bought standard bulbs without resistors and found out the boot light needs a resistor. Made my own makeshift super resistor out of 17 470ohm resistors (I only have these lying around) and it works. For less than £5 for a full interior and number plate led conversion im good for nowScreenshot 20180823 184956 Screenshot 20180823 184947 Screenshot 20180823 184942 Screenshot 20180823 184938 Screenshot 20180823 185135 Screenshot 20180823 185547
 
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You know the taillight trim can be removed from inside the boot lid to remove the lamp holders easier.

Haha wish I'd known that before, all sorted now though and used a better screw so hopefully never be a problem again. Should have known really as I had the boot apart to wire the camera
 
You know the taillight trim can be removed from inside the boot lid to remove the lamp holders easier.

Haha wish I'd known that before, all sorted now though and used a better screw so hopefully never be a problem again. Should have known really as I had the boot apart to wire the camera
 
Changed the original vw branded ufi fuel filter for a new mann one.

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While i was underneath, managed to solve an annoying rattle I've been hearing. The offside plastic stone guard had a crack in it and the plastic pins holding it onto the arm seemed loose. Cable tied it to the arb and that seems to have solved it

 
Changed the original vw branded ufi fuel filter for a new mann one.

Lyf5dDn.jpg


VSnRdWV.jpg



While i was underneath, managed to solve an annoying rattle I've been hearing. The offside plastic stone guard had a crack in it and the plastic pins holding it onto the arm seemed loose. Cable tied it to the arb and that seems to have solved it



I want to change my filter next but the screw in the clamp is rusted so bad it needs drilling out and I’m not sure how the fuel lines come off, any help



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Is it definitely stuck? The screw is a self tapper going into the plastic bracket; rust won't get it stuck to anything, mine was rusty and needed a bit of persuasion but it came out.

To remove the lines (do it before you unscrew the bracket) , there are push tabs which need to be pressed in while pulling the line. The two towrards the rear are straight forward as you can see the tabs and use a screwdriver to press in the tabs, the one nearest the engine is facing upwards so you'll need to push the tab in using feel and your finger. Doable though


]
 
Is it definitely stuck? The screw is a self tapper going into the plastic bracket; rust won't get it stuck to anything, mine was rusty and needed a bit of persuasion but it came out.

To remove the lines (do it before you unscrew the bracket) , there are push tabs which need to be pressed in while pulling the line. The two towrards the rear are straight forward as you can see the tabs and use a screwdriver to press in the tabs, the one nearest the engine is facing upwards so you'll need to push the tab in using feel and your finger. Doable though


]

Thanks, I’ll give it a go. The screws head has rusted so no slot or Philips bit to turn it, might drill head off


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Relatively good access to it, so can't see you having any issues drilling it out. First time yours is being changed since new?
 
Yeah that’s bad isn’t it?


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Seeing as most folk never change it, youre still ahead.
From what I've read about the filter, a clogged one will mainly restrict fuel flow at full throttle so it's not like an oil filter that can mess up the car if not changed.

Would be cool to cut the old one open to see what the state of it inside is like
 
Replaced the Q5 steering wheel with the A5 S-line one. This completes the SE-to-S-line conversion.

A5 s line steering wheel in A3 8PA
 
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Just done the DSG oil and filter change this afternoon, took a bit longer than expected, (over an hour to top fill as over 5l came out so put a full 6 back in) but damn good job I did it look at the colour of the old oil!

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Managed to get away with just removing a section of the air intake pipe didn't need to remove airbox or battery, had just enough space to get in as you can see here

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Little tip I found having the car tilted slightly downhill meant I got more out than I expected (and a good job with how awful it looked) then moved it onto perfectly flat for the temp monitor and drain stage
 
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Love that steering wheel, massive upgrade over the stock one, I want one now
I love that it's 15 mm smaller than the stoke one that is huge for my taste. The Q5 steering wheel was smaller than the stock one too, though a little larger than this one. Just if you would look for the same, this one is 8K0419091CA.
 
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Just a minor retrofit changed out Electric heated wing mirrors for the Auto Folding ones , having a little teething problem but with a little help from my friends i hope to get it sorted in due time .
Quick tip if you have Wind deflectors on car and your doing a wing mirror change take them off first so the mirror base sits Flush
 
Forgot to say, I just replaced both wing mirror glasses. The left one had no working heating. The right one was fine, but I found a set of two mirror glasses off an A5 in mint condition for a reasonable price and as the A5 right one was with a blind spot section (mine was not), I chose to replace it too.
 
Just a minor retrofit changed out Electric heated wing mirrors for the Auto Folding ones , having a little teething problem but with a little help from my friends i hope to get it sorted in due time .
Quick tip if you have Wind deflectors on car and your doing a wing mirror change take them off first so the mirror base sits Flush
Hang on.... Auto folding? Like folding when you pick the car? Or still have to turn the knob? Would love mine to fold on lock.


I love that it's 15 mm smaller than the stoke one that is huge for my taste. The Q5 steering wheel was smaller than the stock one too, though a little larger than this one. Just if you would look for the same, this one is 8K0419091CA.

Cheers I'm a bit skint right now with all this car has cost me since purchase but that's definitely on the list for future
 
I love that it's 15 mm smaller than the stoke one that is huge for my taste. The Q5 steering wheel was smaller than the stock one too, though a little larger than this one. Just if you would look for the same, this one is 8K0419091CA.
Just seen it looks to have more buttons, how do that work, or is there just a "dead" button
 
Just seen it looks to have more buttons, how do that work, or is there just a "dead" button

They will be dead. One can get a programmable LINBUS adapter and introduce more functions if necessary.
 
Ive got an xtrons android head unit wondering if that would recognise the additional buttons without any adapter, there is an app for button programming... Anyone with an android unit tried?
 
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Ive got an xtrons android head unit wondering if that would recognise the additional buttons without any adapter, there is an app for button programming... Anyone with an android unit tried?
There's one dead button: NAV (on the right hand side). It doesn't connect to anything. The rest work same as on the 8P wheel.
I have Xtrons HU. On the right hand side, the "voice command" button works for answering phone calls or, if you want to call, to bring up the phone app on the HU. The wheel changes sound volume up and down and mute/unmute by pressing it. On the left hand side, the wheel changes tracks forward and back. The MODE button shifts between Android apps such as Radio, Music, DVD, perhaps something else. I don't use either of those apps and I was unable to assign different function to this button, so I don't use it.

The app for a button assignment is named MTCDTools. It's powerful, but I don't know if it works with the android 8. But all the buttons I told before work out of the box, no app needed.
 
There's one dead button: NAV (on the right hand side). It doesn't connect to anything. The rest work same as on the 8P wheel.
I have Xtrons HU. On the right hand side, the "voice command" button works for answering phone calls or, if you want to call, to bring up the phone app on the HU. The wheel changes sound volume up and down and mute/unmute by pressing it. On the left hand side, the wheel changes tracks forward and back. The MODE button shifts between Android apps such as Radio, Music, DVD, perhaps something else. I don't use either of those apps and I was unable to assign different function to this button, so I don't use it.

The app for a button assignment is named MTCDTools. It's powerful, but I don't know if it works with the android 8. But all the buttons I told before work out of the box, no app needed.

Yeah mine works exactly the same as that do want to look into reassigning that mode button or at least editing the apps it switches through as the only one I currently use is the radio app as the built in music app is a bit crap and I'm not stupid enough to watch videos whilst driving. If I manage to work it out I'll let you know
 
Is it definitely stuck? The screw is a self tapper going into the plastic bracket; rust won't get it stuck to anything, mine was rusty and needed a bit of persuasion but it came out.

To remove the lines (do it before you unscrew the bracket) , there are push tabs which need to be pressed in while pulling the line. The two towrards the rear are straight forward as you can see the tabs and use a screwdriver to press in the tabs, the one nearest the engine is facing upwards so you'll need to push the tab in using feel and your finger. Doable though


]

Well I reckon Audi has deliberately set up a group of technicians whose only job is to design ****** hard connector designs so the diy enthusiast can’t undo one ****** one of them.

The filter connectors are so difficult to do it’s no wonder they don’t get changed that often, I can feel the tab and push it in but doesn’t come off, need beadle hands to get the front off, the rear ones the tab doesn’t even move, maybe they are full of crap will try some wd40 or something, the only good thing is I’ve undone the screw


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Well I reckon Audi has deliberately set up a group of technicians whose only job is to design ****** hard connector designs so the diy enthusiast can’t undo one ****** one of them.

The filter connectors are so difficult to do it’s no wonder they don’t get changed that often, I can feel the tab and push it in but doesn’t come off, need beadle hands to get the front off, the rear ones the tab doesn’t even move, maybe they are full of **** will try some wd40 or something, the only good thing is I’ve undone the screw


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LOL that same thought crossed my mind. The rears were harder than the front on mine, even though the front is inaccessible with a screwdriver.
One of the rears I pushed in with a screwdriver and pulled on the connector, came out easily. The other needed one screwdriver pushing in the tab and another screwdriver between the connector and the filter to wiggle it loose.
Front one was easy as I just pushed down the tab with my finger and pulled.
Push the tabs in hard, you need it to clear the flange on the filter pipes
 
I spent half hour pushing and pulling then gave up, I’m getting movement in the tabs but not enough to free them off, frustrating .

Maybe try again next weekend


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At my nans who has a driveway so was able to wash and polish the car myself which is a rare treat. Gave it a quick clay, then a polish with autoglym super resin followed with a coating of Mrfix 9h ceramic. From what I've seen online it seems decent, but guess I'll see how it lasts.

VISBtXn.jpg


btuNnXW.jpg

FJIrBdo.jpg
 
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At my nans who has a driveway so was able to wash and polish the car myself which is a rare treat. Gave it a quick clay, then a polish with autoglym super resin followed with a coating of Mrfix 9h ceramic. From what I've seen online it seems decent, but guess I'll see how it lasts.

VISBtXn.jpg


btuNnXW.jpg

FJIrBdo.jpg

Nice job you’ll see how the beading looks today


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Thanks, I’ll give it a go. The screws head has rusted so no slot or Philips bit to turn it, might drill head off


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I've replaced the file filter on mine, the screw on mine was rusted to hell whereas any Philips just kept rounding the head. Used an easy out after drilling the head a bit so it could bite.

You can see how dirty the filter is by giving it a shake (plugging all input/outputs) then watch the murky fuel come out the input end.
 
I've replaced the file filter on mine, the screw on mine was rusted to hell whereas any Philips just kept rounding the head. Used an easy out after drilling the head a bit so it could bite.

You can see how dirty the filter is by giving it a shake (plugging all input/outputs) then watch the murky fuel come out the input end.

Will do if I can ever shift those pesky connectors


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Will do if I can ever shift those pesky connectors


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As Sam above, get the little tab pushed in on the connectors then try and waggle them and pull away from the filter. It ain't easy, oh make sure your car has been off for a good while. I had a nice surprise when one of the connectors came loose, I know petrol smells good but it doesn't taste it haha
 
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