10" Subwoofer Enclosure

10" would be compromised by the enclosures volume I would imagine...

Physically you will struggle too... the andy mac enclosure I have is tight enough and thats using a 6.5" driver... its surprisingly good though and while it won't make your hair move (not that I have much left too move) it adds loads of depth to the music...

If you are after punch (10's are generally punchy) I doubt you will get it from this enclosure size..

The volume is specified on that page you linked (8 litres) so I would first see if you can find a 10" sub that will sort that volume else you will simply be better off with the 8" as the 10" will be strangled in a box smaller than its designed for...

You would most likely need a deeper box and then you may not be able to fit it in behind the panel as there is not loads of room and a sub firing at the trim would most likely vibrate quite a bit...

Here's my Andy Mac enclosure fitment...
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/page-75#post-2359911

<tuffty
 
...looking at the pictures I suspect you will need to do something with the central locking pump too...

<tuffty/>
 
thanks for the reference images :) i thought that about the central locking pump too - can't really relocate it due to the strict length of hoses.

i'm thinking undo the bracket where the antenna plugs go in to to give more space (possibly attach it to custom sub enclosure) - fibreglass the area up to get maximum volume... so in my mind it'll be a larger volume than the 8L as per AMSS or the one in the link...

sub to go in = MBQuart rlp254
SMALL BOX
.4 Cubic Feet = ~ 11.3L (may not work but chucking ideas about...)
Heavy Polyfill
 
Some 10" lower optimum internal box volume start from around 15 L .

Some regular subs outperform even shallow mount subs for small volume .
 
found these on a german forum - would be aiming to do something like this (except less hacking the stock panels)

Screen Shot 2015 12 30 at 235159Screen Shot 2015 12 30 at 235205Screen Shot 2015 12 30 at 235217
 
right... here we go!!!

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area masked off. want to try and keep things looking stock so trying not to cut up the boot trim

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but just in case i have an A3 boot trim to play with

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ready for matting
 
I'll watching with interest as I'm into my audio, looking to fit my 8" dc audio sub into something similar it works in a sealed enclosure of 0.6 cut.
 
Ordered a bunch of parts for the suspension upgrade so while i'm waiting for that... onto a job i been caning to do since i got my sub

so this is what's going in - MBQuart RLP254 10"
MBquart 01 MBquart 02
Which calls for a small/tight response enclosure to be .4 cubic feet = 11.3267 L or for flat response .65 cubic feet = 18.406 L.

So moving on from above i worked on doing the first 2 layers. i went right up to the seat belt tensioner where i then walled off with some card roughly cut to the contour of the wheel arch (previous to masking the area up i also removed the gray carpet that covers the heavy padding on the wheel arch and hides wiring... if you have an A3 you will probably notice that all this filling and carpeting is not there - that's how i realised there is actually sh|tloads of space in there , from a car at the wreckers that had zero sound deadening. i've also got the central locking module located against the side of the car and not against the back of the taillights - i felt that by letting it sit a little in the massive hole back there it would give me more room)

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I waited a couple hours between layer 1 & 2 and then waited for that to solidify and pulled it out. It was tight but got it out eventually by pulling from the flat part that covers the wheel arch. Should be strong enough that it can flex but won't break :D

IMG 3771
^ i've got my 11L of packing peanuts ready for the volume test!

IMG 3772
WIN!!! looks like it can EASILY fit 11L with plenty of room to spare. Doesn't even fill past the wheel arch which is the area that would give the most volume so subs that need a tad larger should be doable! Now to add strengthening layers then can work on how the sub will mount to the front.

Am feeling pretty confident about keeping the stock look!
 
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Been a bit slow because it's been too hot (like 42 deg. C) to fibreglass!

Anyway. It's 37 degrees today (so much cooler - almost like a spring breeze) so am out tackling this again!
I tried to cut the thing with a Dremel first and kept snapping cutting discs so out came the angle grinder which made quick work of it all.

Testing...
Image


Now o did have to cut a tab off where the wheel arch is as it was preventing me from putting the mould back in. In hindsight I would have just bent it back so if needed could bend it back - seeks to be unused anyway (where my finger is). You can also see where I've place the antenna module after removing it from its cradle

Image


So it looks like there's plenty of space.

And here's what it looks like with the trim. No pics because the lens isn't wide enough. So here's a video ☺️

And now to figure out the front...

Image
 

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And here's where we're at as of today

Image


MDF front mocked up and countersunk hole for woofer so it can sit back just a little (wiring terminal will be off to the right straight edge)

Image


Plan now is to have the MDF cut down to fit into the shape of the enclosure slightly. Make some blocks for the face to screw on to then seal up the edges with more fibreglassing.

Or would anyone else have a better suggestion on how to go on about it?
 
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I would have made a mounting frame for the front and glassed it in with the rest

<tuffty/>
 
how do you mean?

Well... you need something solid to fix the front onto... I would have made an MDF frame as part of the fibreglass phase that you glassed onto the front of the opening so you could screw the front panel to it

...or like in the links I posted create the MDF ring for mounting the sub and fix it with supporting spars and use cloth laden with resin building up with fibreglass matting afterwards

Its all in the links above dude... that front piece will make it quite heavy... you can save some weight by using doped cloth

<tuffty/>
 
Continuing this while trying to sort out re-mapping issues. Going with the fibreglass front and ditched the MDF front idea

Best fabric! lol
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bashing it out!

so once i laid enough layers i cut off the excess bits on the side and sanded back to the original shape of the back panel. Filled in any little gaps and poured resin inside and let it run the perimeter of the join a few times (cameraphone works well to be able to see where your head can't fit!). made holes for the wiring terminal, test fit everything, stuffed with wadding and covered with upholstery foam.

MBquart 01

- there's that shape again. no more pineapples and foam padding on the front! up cycling my old saggy baggy headliner too for a cover on the front of the box! LOL

MBquart 03

- Fits snug right in there!!!! yesssssss!!!

MBquart 04


Trims back on and back to having proper sound :)
 

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How does it sound??

Great work by the way. :)
 
It's got plenty of juice thank you very much

Sounds very clear and concise there is no strange noises coming out of it or rattling however there is a point on the frame of the wheel arch where I had to cut view metal which is rubbing so I think I just need to replace the carpet that's meant to be there and that will fix it
 
Anyone know how to go about making a template? Or whatever you call it? Got some friends asking for one. Lol
 

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