Thermostat opening temp

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Jenno007

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Hi Guys,

I replaced my thermostat a few months ago as it was stuck open. It is now summer here in Australia and my car is constantly getting to 100 degrees, and when I turn the engine off the fans are on full bore and stay on for a minute or two after the car is off.

I'm guessing that is the cars way to tell me it's getting a little warm. Coolant levels are good and I'm using oem spec coolant.

My current thermostat opens at 88 degrees. I am going to get a "high flow" thermostat that allows for 30% more coolant flow to help try fix the problem.

My question however is, should I get a thermostat that opens at 82 degrees to try help keep the car a little cooler. Or would the "opening" temperature mean the stat is 100% open, and therefore there would be no added benefit from doing this. If this is the case I will stay with the 88 degree stat to allow the car to get to its operating temperature faster.

Cheers
 
How hot is it there at the moment ? . It's possible the water pump impellor has split, OE water pumps have plastic impellors and they split so the pump moves less coolant around making it more likely to overheat.
 
Was 39 degrees today.
badger5 said:
lower temp stat would'nt hurt in your environment.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate, I'll go for the 82 degree stat given you don't think it's a bad idea. Isn't the end of the world if it doesn't help

desertstorm said:
How hot is it there at the moment ? . It's possible the water pump impellor has split, OE water pumps have plastic impellors and they split so the pump moves less coolant around making it more likely to overheat.
Click to expand...

It was 39 today but I only drove on to the gym which isn't far away so the car didn't go over 96.

Is there anyway I could test if an impeller has split, ie the pump isn't working as well as it should?

I am planning to rebuild the engine in June so I hope it can hold on until then!
 
If you said it was 20 degrees then I might have said the impellor was an issue. At 39 degrees that is hot and if the water pump had an issue you would seriously know about it. As mentioned above the stat is the way to go.
 
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desertstorm said:
If you said it was 20 degrees then I might have said the impellor was an issue. At 39 degrees that is hot and if the water pump had an issue you would seriously know about it. As mentioned above the stat is the way to go.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate. Yeah... I'm not exactly 'worried' about my engine overheating, just given that we will start to see 40+ degree days I want to do everything I can to try help my engine out, and stop the fans blasting away when the engine is turned off. Also going to a 10w50 engine oil.

Can't wait to get a stroker kit and gtx28 :D
 
badger5 said:
QS TT came with 82deg stats fyi
Click to expand...

Good to know, thanks for that. I installed the "high flow" 84 degree stat today while I had the inlet manifold off to put your spacer in so I'll see how it goes. Still a tight ****** with the inlet manifold off haha.
 
Jenno007 said:
Liquid Gauge. The dash stays on 90 degrees when the actual temp is 80-100 (haven't been above 100).
Click to expand...
its the gauge you need to worry about.
ive had up to 106 degrees on the digital read out (actual temp) gauge still at 90. Its overheating when the gauge begins to rocket. It must have a preset limit in the sender or something.
 
superkarl said:
its the gauge you need to worry about.
ive had up to 106 degrees on the digital read out (actual temp) gauge still at 90. Its overheating when the gauge begins to rocket. It must have a preset limit in the sender or something.
Click to expand...
I wish someone knew the actual temperature that the gauge started to move. Maybe someone should bypass their radiator :p.

Because what if it was 107 degrees and then the gauge all of a sudden just jumps up and the dash turns into a Christmas tree. (I'm guessing it's probably over 110 degrees but under 120 degrees)

But thanks for the input. Although the car isn't overheating at 100 degrees, I'm sure the closer it is to 90 degrees the better.
 
another question guys,

My run after pump is really struggling, it appears that the electrical terminal is going, because if I pull the terminal towards the front of the car it runs like it should. Does this pump run whilst the engine is running? And if so could this be causing the car to be a little warmer than it should?

I also have just installed a front mount which I imagine would be blocking a fair bit of air to the radiator, so I'm expecting this problem to only get worse. Luckily I have the luxury of two cars so I can easily avoid driving on hot days if the car ever did end up over heating (not that it has yet, and I imagine it wont).
 
I think someone on SCN forum posted how it fixed his pump.. Is was the brushes which had worn out causing his issues. He got new brushes and brought it back to life

search seactcupra.net forum you might find what he did
 
badger5 said:
I think someone on SCN forum posted how it fixed his pump.. Is was the brushes which had worn out causing his issues. He got new brushes and brought it back to life

search seactcupra.net forum you might find what he did
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks mate ill have a search! Any idea if it runs whilst the car is on? And therefore could affect running temps
 
audi upgrades
superkarl said:
it should only run after you shut the car off after a hot drive. Lasts for about a minute even without ignition.
Click to expand...
Mine starts when I put my keys in ignition in the morning and runs after I turn off the car even if the cars not at operating temp. That's why I was wondering if it runs whilst the car is on
 
audi upgrades
badger5 said:
no it runs all the time +10mins after ign off
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks! That could be one of the reasons my car is getting a little warm. I'll get onto that thread you told me about on the weekend!
 
continues "after run"........... I see what you mean, but its always circulating water thru turbo coolant circuit
 
badger5 said:
continues "after run"........... I see what you mean, but its always circulating water thru turbo coolant circuit
Click to expand...
Thats good to know because i thought something was wrong with mine. I was thiking it would be a restriction in water flow while the engine was running or something.
 
badger5 said:
I think someone on SCN forum posted how it fixed his pump.. Is was the brushes which had worn out causing his issues. He got new brushes and brought it back to life

search seactcupra.net forum you might find what he did
Click to expand...

having re-read what you just said, I think my pump is suffering a different problem. If I physically pull the electrical connectors towards the front of the car, the pump works 100%. But if I don't it's really sluggish because it's not receiving enough power. I might try cable tie the wires forward and hope this solves the issue. Then look at maybe getting a new pump when I have the engine out.
 
Jenno007 said:
having re-read what you just said, I think my pump is suffering a different problem. If I physically pull the electrical connectors towards the front of the car, the pump works 100%. But if I don't it's really sluggish because it's not receiving enough power. I might try cable tie the wires forward and hope this solves the issue. Then look at maybe getting a new pump when I have the engine out.
Click to expand...
Take it out and try cleaning the connectors up etc
 
Jenno007 said:
having re-read what you just said, I think my pump is suffering a different problem. If I physically pull the electrical connectors towards the front of the car, the pump works 100%. But if I don't it's really sluggish because it's not receiving enough power. I might try cable tie the wires forward and hope this solves the issue. Then look at maybe getting a new pump when I have the engine out.
Click to expand...
same happened..
the flexing of the connector pushes the terminals to the brushes
 
My girlfriend found a grey hair on my head and I'm only 22! I wonder if it's from the stress of owning an Audi!

Thanks a heap Bill I didn't realise my symptoms were the same! I will get to it on the weekend!
 
I followed the tutorial and the runafter pump is now working perfectly again! Thanks for the link Bill.

I'm thinking of getting one of these for monitoring water temps (eventually this car will be a track car so I want to be able to monitor as much as I can).

$(KGrHqRHJCYFHIQ75LgtBR3NSJte-g~~60_12.JPG


You can see the heat sensor that you attach to a bolt on the engine. If I attached that to the cylinder head (near the coilpacks somewhere), do you think that would be a reliable gauge of the water temp? Or should I try find something that actually goes into the coolant?

I was wondering if I spliced into the CTS's wires, if it would work off that.

The problem is it's $150 and I don't want to blow the money if it is inaccurate.
 
if you want to measure coolant temp you will need to reside in the coolant..
get an obd app like torque to view temps +other usefull stuff.. imhp
 
badger5 said:
if you want to measure coolant temp you will need to reside in the coolant..
get an obd app like torque to view temps +other usefull stuff.. imhp
Click to expand...
I have a liquid gauge atm but will be running an after market ecu in the future so I'm preparing for that. Do you know if a gauge would work if I spliced into the existing CTS?
superkarl said:
The climate control panel gives you actual water temp.
Click to expand...
Really? How do you display that
 
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Hold recirc button and down on the temp button together. You then scroll through to number 19 or something like that, and hit recirc again, that displays actual water temp.
Something like that anyway, been a long while since I've done it. I used to do it everytime I drove.
Just give it a search on here and there's a list of all the data you can display and what block they're in
 
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badger5 said:
after market ecu?
which one?
Click to expand...
Linkecu have a plug and play so I will most likely go with that. It's a New Zealand brand so you might not have heard about it. I hadn't, until my mechanic mentioned it
superkarl said:
Hold recirc button and down on the temp button together. You then scroll through to number 19 or something like that, and hit recirc again, that displays actual water temp.
Something like that anyway, been a long while since I've done it. I used to do it everytime I drove.
Just give it a search on here and there's a list of all the data you can display and what block they're in
Click to expand...
Wow that is amazing I didn't know about that. I will have a search on the forum and try it out tonight!
 
badger5 said:
heard of it. plug and play..
hmm good luck
Click to expand...

Plug and play in terms of installation. You then need a full custom tune to get it running well. I think it comes with a map so you can drive it to the tuners but that's it
 
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