Unitronic
Fear is just a word!
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2013
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- 214
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- Location
- Edinburgh
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I found these boxes are very soft when you up the torque on them. They need some cooling as the oil cant handle the heat and most of the time the bearings in the casings are heated to such a degree that it expands & cracks the casing. I'm thinking of upgrading my bearings as well but in 2 minds about the strait cut or bearing upgrade? Mishimoto has a very nice gearbox cooler i'm thinking of installing.
Do you have a price on bearing upgrades & who, I believe it will set me back around £500?
A little birdy told me HN03 GAS was parked at AMD at the weekend........ and I can't wait to hear how the new setup goes.
Just purely out of interest, what are you doing with the old unit.......
Hmmmm. Not many lines to read between there Alex......
Well at least things are happening - I will keep fingers crossed for you!
Can't wait to see this Alex. When will it be back on the road?
Hows the new turbo coming on Alex?
Have a question for you! Seeing you have done the ATP manifold did you have it supported with some torque lever?
Hi Alex! Any news concerning your Manifold yet?
Great stuff m8 can't wait to see it back on the road! Have you made some vids?
Awesome stuff Alex! I can't wait to see you'er face first drive! Must have one of those GoPro facing you so we can see the face! LOL
Look what turned up today......
Nice shiny new diff ....
What diff is that? Why did you choose it as opposed to a gripper plate diff?
It's a Quaife ATB diff.
I've used Quaife diffs before,and the way they can find traction is amazing.
Up until recently,there wasn't one of these for the S3,but they did do one for FWD cars,so I waited and hoped,and finally they got around to making one.
As I understand it,there are benefits and drawbacks with either,in that the Quaife does require the wheels to be in contact with the ground(i.e.if you manage to lift a wheel under cornering,it doesn't cope),and on the other side,if you choose to much preload on the gripper,you have issues in tight cornering around town etc.
Keeping the front wheels in contact isn't an issue with the suspension setup I'm using,and I like the feel and delivery of an ATB diff.
I'll feed back on it when it's all been put back together,but to honest,anything would be better than the open diff,as the car is squirming around right now.
There's the Peloquin and also Wavetrac diffs but I have no experience of either whereas I do rate Quaife not only from personal experience but a lot of rallycrossers use them.
If anyone is going to break a diff it would be those guys.
The general opinion seems to be for circuit racing that a ramp diff would work best whereas for road use or variable surfaces the ATB type diff scores best.
I'd need to ask AMD who did the gearbox rebuild as it was a specialist in Kent who did the work.
Uprated bearings and new selector forks and synchros.
Ok thanks. Stripping my engine tonight. I def have a crank bearing gone. Might as well get the box rebuilt while I am at it ready for Silverstone in 6 weeks time.
Bad news on the bearing.
What happened?
I ll see if I can find the box builder we used if that would be any use to you?
Driver mist I was enjoying myself so much in the race that I chose to sort of hope/ignore my high water alarm and just watched the temp go over 120 and then still carried on until it lost power and started rattling. I wont do that again as of course its cost me 20 hours work stripping the engine and about £300 in parts I guess but it's hard as you just don't want to pull off circuit!
Ahh!
I can understand but its easy to get distracted by having fun.
Good luck fixing it.
Racing is like a drug and trust me when I say you don't want to stop for anything once you get going LOL. BUT I need to be more disciplined in that area and will work on that as we spent ages setting up alarms etc on my dash and then I promptly ignored them ROFL which is false economy. It's all a learning curve in driver development.
Don't get me wrong I shall enjoy stripping the engine again and I am sending the turbo etc off for ceramic coating as it overheated due to excessive heat in the engine bay that the water system just could not cope with so we do need to develop the car in that area.
Details in my thread as I don't want to hijack yours
It's always good to post useful info on each other's threads,and sometimes you pick up something really useful,as I have so many times here,so don't worry about it.
Who did you choose for the coating?.....I used a lot of Zircotek's stuff around the heat critical areas on mine,and I know they do manifold and other exhaust system coatings as well.
We placed some of their Zircoflex around the transfer case,and areas of the bulkhead near the turbo.
Are you looking at a larger radiator as well?...the primary coolant pump on the S3 is plastic and we had that replaced with one with a metal impeller for reliability as well,although the radiator and cooling on mine are nowhere near as stressed as on a race car.
Hi Alex
This is what we are trying
Focus RS front bonnet scoop (extra air in)
Focus RS vents both sides at the back of the bonnet (hot air out)
Heat coating: Turbo, Manifold, Downpipe and removing current wrap. I don't know if you can also use the wrap on top of the ceramic? (heat retained)
Extra heat shielding on bulkhead so I don't get so damned hot (heat reflected)
Doing away with the manual pump in favour of an Electric water pump, Davies Craig 80 I think (heat cooled more efficiently)
Very large air cooled oil cooler 19 or 24 row. I guess I need that ally plate thing to mount the oil pipes for that and do away with that plastic **** Audi use LOL. Do you know where I can buy that kit from? (Oil cooled more efficiently)
Bleed nipples in coolant system to aid bleeding it (we have a nasty air lock possibly in turbo cooling pipe)
Possibly 2 x 4 inch fans sucking air out the bottom of the car below turbo depending if I can mount them (more heat out)
I might also mount a Subaru reverse scoop directly over the turbo to allow extra heat out as that has quite large vents in it (even more heat out)
She lasted 15 laps before overheating and it was a very hot day (27c) of course so I think all the above should suffice to get bay temps down enough for 60 mins ragging the **** out of her on a hot day.