Started the 2.1 today but....

[S3 Nattie]

Well another code has just come up, 16705/P0321/000801 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal which is likely to be the reason why my car kept cutting out and struggling to restart straight away.

Still getting the 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation P1340 - 35-00 fault but hopefully after changing the engine speed sensor/crank sensor this code will go away.

Also, not sure if these were the right measuring blocks but in block 90 and 91 in vag com the adjustment field on both 90 and 91 were displaying off. Does that mean the timing is not being retarded or advanced, not sure.....

 

[badger5]

Ye, im a bit confused to as my car starts and idles fine. I thought it the timing was off the car would start and idle roughly which mine doesnt.

Would anyone be able to tell me if the engine would cut itself off if the above code appeared because thats what my car is doing.

Thanks

cam timing is out as said before, although implausable signal could well be engine reluctor sensor failing, which would stall the car for sure. if plug is ok on it then new sensor may well fix it for you
it will idle surprisingly well no gauge of it being out by one tooth.. ecu's telling you its wrong cos it is

 

[S3 Nattie]

Ok well I done the timing again today and still got the error. Timed the crank and flywheel right but not 100% sure on the cam timing. The notch on the cam is on the end of the tooth and I have lined the cam very very slightly to the left of the notch on the valve cover so its lined up on the same tooth, hope someone understands what I mean.

The car doesnt stall anymore even though I had the engine speed code (deleted and not come back), only getting the 17748 code. Going to change the engine speed sensor tomorrow and go from there.

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

I bet the timing between the cams is still out

I had the same problem and ended up getting it right in the end, its not the easiest job to do

 

[S3 Nattie]

No, its very annoying doing the timing again. Every time I went to put the belt over the cam, the crank would turn slightly and would lose the timing so had to do it all over again.

Do anyone have a pic of the timing on the valve cover as I cannot get mine bang on.

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Mine is a b***h to time up as i have a steel flywheel with no timing marks, you can't see the marks on the crank pulley and i have a adjustable cam pulley.

 

[S3 Nattie]

Lol, that sounds fun. Ifs the crank didnt move as soon as you pull the belt over the cam it would be all fine. If this sensor doesnt get ride off this code I will take it to a garage, cant be bothered doing the timing again

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Stick it in gear and put the hand brake on so doesn't move

 

[S3 Nattie]

Did that but still get a bit of slack and the crank still rotates slightly. Just been reading about the bicycle method of putting the belt back on so if I do it again il try that.

What route do you take to get the belt on. I put the belt on the crank, water pump and tensioner roller first then I pull the belt over the cam.

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

I use the right tools to do the job

Sounds like your not using the right tools to get the time belt on with ease

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....989677&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_692wt_1139

 

[S3 Nattie]

That tool is to push the piston down on the tensioner to get the pin in it to lock it in place ye.

The pin is already in the tensioner before I attempted to put the belt on so the belt is a slack as it gets.

 

[S3 Nattie]

Just found this on SCN forum and just wondering if anyone can comfirm if this is true or not.

"1.8 t's are always half a tooth out. i THINK with the crank at tdc the cam should be half a tooth out to the left. with the cam half a tooth out to the right then the timing will be a tooth out. im only 90% sure it should be half tooth out to the left tho, it could be right"

 

[Matt82]

i dont get how it could be half a tooth out.

to be half a tooth out youd have to sit one tooth on another

it would then fall onto the next tooth... making it a whole tooth out

 

[S3 Nattie]

I think it could be because the notch on valve cover is always in the middle of a tooth on the cam notch, that could be why its out half a tooth.

The notch on the cam is on the end of a tooth.

 

[badger5]

what engine is this picture of?

 

[Welly]

The are pretty tough tbh... you didn't do what Welly's mate did and put the head gasket on upside down? LOL

<tuffty/>

No, that became really obvious, really fast when I filled the expansion taken with water and it just came lording out of the head to block join.

That wasn't the best day I've ever had....

 

[Welly]

Im having a similar problem. Just put my head back on and the engine seems to be smoking quite a bit at the back but I think that is because I put a new exhaust mani gasket and mani to turbo gasket on so think that maybe the cause for the smoking at the rear of the engine.

The car also comes up with a 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation P1340 - 35-00 fault. The are a number of reasons for this fault but unsure which to try first.

The first time I started the car it started fine and idled fine but smoked at the rear and sounded very tappy (read this maybe because the exhuast mani wasnt torqued up enough - 25nm) and then when the car got up to temperature it just cut out and wouldnt start back up till the engine was cold but then cut out again after a few minutes.

Could I have damaged the head gasket when I put it back on and how would I know the gasket was put on the right way up. Any help would be great Nathan

That fault has got engine timing out written all over it....

 

[Welly]

what engine is this picture of?

Looks like a Vauxhall C20 series to me....

 

[homer_s]

Just found this on SCN forum and just wondering if anyone can comfirm if this is true or not.

"1.8 t's are always half a tooth out. i THINK with the crank at tdc the cam should be half a tooth out to the left. with the cam half a tooth out to the right then the timing will be a tooth out. im only 90% sure it should be half tooth out to the left tho, it could be right"

i'd agree with that

 

[S3 Nattie]

Ok, had a look at the belt last night and realised the belt was slowly working itself to the outer edge of the cams etc and looked like the belt was too tight as the teeth were wearing on the belt so obviously something wasnt right.

Looked at the timing etc and and all was aligned so took the belt off and checked everything was torqued up correctly but still couldnt fathom why the belt was coming off. I then noticed the tensioner roller (not sure the exact name) would have been removed when I sent the head of to a well known cylinder head specialist in Cardiff to check the head over, even though I done my own few tests. (by the way no damage was done at all when the belt snapped, very lucky).

I noticed the roller was protruding way out from the head/block. Took it all apart and found a pretty thick washer behind it pushing it out from the head/block, this was the reason why the belt was coming off and too tight and possibly the reason why my timing was aligned but the ECU thinking it was out bringing up the code.

Put it all back in and aligned it once again and its now running very nicely and the code has not reappeared (touch wood).

Nathan