Started the 2.1 today but....

Andrew@A.L.D

Andrew@A.L.D

May add NOS to 600+bhp S3.
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It engine sounds sweet but its the cooling thats the problem

I think there is still a bit of air lock, the fans don't want to kick in and the temp just goes up

Just want to cover all problems that may happen?

Will i have put the thermostat in the wrong way and not known i have done so?

Will i need a new fan switch?

anything will help
 
Have you tried running the car with the expansion cap off to help any airlock to escape? (obvious one I know, it's easier to start with the easiest fixes then move on to the more awkward ones).

I didn't think that the thermostat would fit the wrong way round but open to other peoples better qualified opinions on that one.

What do the hoses feel like? are they all getting hot or are some still cool? Do the pipes feel hard (pressure build up?).
 
I take it you tried squeezing the pipes too whilst running the engine? I suppose you could always check the stat to see if that is the problem but bubbling is normally associated with broken waterpump impellers causing lack of / limited circulation. Has the waterpump been replaced?
 
Just found this response from Vortex in response to a guy who has similar probs:

"when the car is at operating temperature, is there a difference in the temperatures of the upper and lower radiator hoses? Did the car start overheating before you replaced the coolant flange. I would start by checking the upper and lower radiator hoses, if the upper is HOT and the lower is cold, i would suspect the waterpump or thermostat. remove the thermostat and inspect the waterpump with a small mirror. Replace the thermostat and re-check the cooling system.

If both of the hoses are hot, and the fans are not operating when up to temp, i would start by checking the green fuses, in the fuse box on top of the battery. the battery boxes start to melt, and make poor contact. remove the 3 green fuses and check the inner terminals for corrosion and burn spots. Don't rule out the possibility of an air pocket in the system not turning on the fan switch or a bad fan control module."

HTH mate,
 
Put the heaters on full inside as hot as i could and there blowing hot

Run it with the cap off and just gets hotter and bubbles over when fans are meant to kick in also i'm coming up with a fault code of 17748 camshaft/crankshaft position sensors (B2) out of sequence

Checked the new thermostat and thats the right way round and i also fitted a new water pump when engine was build
 
cam position sensor is a pain.. out of synch either on cam to cam and/or cam to crank..
**** of a job to redo and check

hatefull..
 
I had green fuse blown and the temp went up with loud warning beebs, so it fan was not coming on at all. hope it is simple.
 
Ok not a happy bunny

Fixed the fan and the ABS, it was the multi plug that plugs to the fuse box on top of the battery.

Thats the good bit the bad bit is the engine is smoking now so i thought i drain some oil off as there was a bit to much in and its still smoking

It didn't smoke the first time i started it up but i came to it this morning and its started smoking?

Its white smoke so i'll have to look into that?
 
The are pretty tough tbh... you didn't do what Welly's mate did and put the head gasket on upside down? LOL

<tuffty/>
 
No not at all lol

I just done have time to do it now as i'm behind on my work and might drop it off at a garage to get it fixed as i need it asap now
 
Just wiped the cylinder head off in a hour and the bores were full of antifreeze and you can see were the gasket had warped from getting to hot

Just got to order some new parts again
 
The plug that plugs into the little fuse box on top of the battery wasn't connected properly, that plug controls the fans and ABS, The car then overheated on the spot i didn't notice it over heating until it started to beep and steam a little, i stopped the car and put it away so when i came to it the next morning a lot of water had been dumped into the bores.

The head has been skimmed prior to the build and have just checked it now and it seams to be fine and true and as tuffty said there pretty tuff the heads
 
for just idling thats a surprising fail for temps on idle..
i always watch guage and startup with vagcom connected to keep an eye on things, whilst also going all round it with torch looking for smoke, drips etc etc

done it many times, and i always get nervous starting a fresh build/install....

sorry you have hit a problem so soon.

bill
 
Its didn't help with the fans not working at the time

To be honest Bill i think i may of damaged the head gasket when i was putting the head on
 
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Im having a similar problem. Just put my head back on and the engine seems to be smoking quite a bit at the back but I think that is because I put a new exhaust mani gasket and mani to turbo gasket on so think that maybe the cause for the smoking at the rear of the engine.

The car also comes up with a 17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation P1340 - 35-00 fault. The are a number of reasons for this fault but unsure which to try first.

The first time I started the car it started fine and idled fine but smoked at the rear and sounded very tappy (read this maybe because the exhuast mani wasnt torqued up enough - 25nm) and then when the car got up to temperature it just cut out and wouldnt start back up till the engine was cold but then cut out again after a few minutes.

Could I have damaged the head gasket when I put it back on and how would I know the gasket was put on the right way up. Any help would be great Nathan
 
Why was the head gasket changed?

The 2.1 of mine is been rebuilt due to oil starvation to rod 4, oil has been going to it but not much

The crank will have the works done to it and it will be fitted with Total seal piston rings
 
The head got taken off so replaced the gasket at the same time. It only seems to be smoking at the rear of the engine bay where the new gaskets were put in and smoked till the engine cut out which I believe maybe due to the crankshaft sensor.

Would you happen to know why the engine was so tappy and does the crankshaft sensor relate to the engine cutting out and stuggling to start back up again and the 17748 fault code. Is there a way to check the head gasket is on the right way up.
 
The smoke will be from the new gaskets and will go away in time

The engine shouldn't cut out, if the timing is out it will run like a pig. Have you got the timing right between the two camshafts and the camshafts to the crank?

Tapping could be due to the timing been out the wrong oil?

if the head gasket was wrong then you would get oil/water mix in the header tank or blue/white smoke out the exhaust
 
I do believe the smoke is from the new exhaust mani and turbo gasket but it taking ages to go away.

The timing is fine I believe. The crank, cam gear and the 16 roller distance between the two end bearing caps are all lined up and the make on the flywheel was also used and they were all lined up and the car idles perfectly fine so assume the timings fine.

There was a little bit of white smoke from the exhaust but nothing to worry about, mainly from it being stood for such a long time (3 weeks). Could a leaking exhaust mani cause the ticking. I tightened the mani up to 25nm and the mani to turbo 40nm. Also could the crank speed sensor be the cause for my engine randomly cutting out and not starting again or a while, 17748 I got does suggest it.

Nathan
 
I am having troubles with the same fault codes at the moment, i just had the cambelt done so im putting it down to the timing being out... my car seems to idle and run fine. some one said on another thread that the ecu will adapt so it will run ok, Its going back to the garage on monday so i will let you know the outcome.
 
the car idles perfectly fine and starts fine but stalls on its own randomly after a while. Surely if the timing was out the car wouldnt start vry well and idle roughly.

The cambelt snapped and it did make a pop sounds as thought something just blown so i been thninking a sensor went when the cambelt broke ( on my drive idling the belt snapped ) and thats why i asked about the crank sensor as thats also a solution from vag com.

I will check the timing again then first before i buy a sensor
 
lee172 said:
I am having troubles with the same fault codes at the moment, i just had the cambelt done so im putting it down to the timing being out... my car seems to idle and run fine. some one said on another thread that the ecu will adapt so it will run ok, Its going back to the garage on monday so i will let you know the outcome.
Click to expand...

That would be great if you could get back with your outcome. Does your car cut out randomly at any time as thats the main problem with mine, it starts and idles perfectly fine but cuts out when it wants which leads me to believe the crank sensor maybe at fault.

Nathan
 
S3 Nattie said:
I do believe the smoke is from the new exhaust mani and turbo gasket but it taking ages to go away.

The timing is fine I believe. The crank, cam gear and the 16 roller distance between the two end bearing caps are all lined up and the make on the flywheel was also used and they were all lined up and the car idles perfectly fine so assume the timings fine.

There was a little bit of white smoke from the exhaust but nothing to worry about, mainly from it being stood for such a long time (3 weeks). Could a leaking exhaust mani cause the ticking. I tightened the mani up to 25nm and the mani to turbo 40nm. Also could the crank speed sensor be the cause for my engine randomly cutting out and not starting again or a while, 17748 I got does suggest it.

Nathan
Click to expand...

if you have correlation error, your cam belt is off a tooth or so
 
S3 Nattie said:
the car idles perfectly fine and starts fine but stalls on its own randomly after a while. Surely if the timing was out the car wouldnt start vry well and idle roughly.

The cambelt snapped and it did make a pop sounds as thought something just blown so i been thninking a sensor went when the cambelt broke ( on my drive idling the belt snapped ) and thats why i asked about the crank sensor as thats also a solution from vag com.

I will check the timing again then first before i buy a sensor
Click to expand...

your cambelt snapped when the car was idling on your drive - really?!?!

valves checked?
 
S3 Nattie said:
That would be great if you could get back with your outcome. Does your car cut out randomly at any time as thats the main problem with mine, it starts and idles perfectly fine but cuts out when it wants which leads me to believe the crank sensor maybe at fault.

Nathan
Click to expand...

Well i have the same codes as you but the symptoms are slightly different.. mine runs fine and idles well most of the time, which is what is confusing me, i thought if the timing was out it would run roughly??
If you read the thread 'what have they done??' thats about what is happening with my car. When i go back i will deffo let you know .
 
Ye, im a bit confused to as my car starts and idles fine. I thought it the timing was off the car would start and idle roughly which mine doesnt.

Would anyone be able to tell me if the engine would cut itself off if the above code appeared because thats what my car is doing.

Thanks
 
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