Torque settings - front spring replacement

audiwaterpump

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Afternoon

Does anyone know the torque settings for the various bits and pieces when replacing the front spring?

Car is just the normal 4-door, 2.0Tdi, A4 B8
I couldn't find a how-to-video for it either. Lots of ones for the rear springs.

Thanks for reading.
 
Those links for the upper and lower arms are on Dave Sterl’s site on YouTube and are very comprehensive, including torque values from ETKA site.

Also Autodoc’s video. I doubt any of it will come apart as easily as this. :)

The pinch bolt is well documented. Replace as a matter of course and use anti seize when refitting. Even the upper control arms can be stuck with the bolt removed. I used an air hammer. Consider changing the top rubber mount if it’s out.

Notice on Autodoc they ran the hub bolt back on using at air gun to 140Nm. It’s 200Nm + 180 degrees (using a new bolt).

 
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I was thinking more like this.

Got to be US. Seems excessive, to swap out entire strut, spring and top mount assembly. Looks like Unity specialise in this approach. https://unityap.com/

Again, tapping out the pinch bolt with a ratchet. Stuff of dreams. The car is probably Arizona based, and only sees water when it’s washed.

It is tight with the driveshaft connected, but doable.
 
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Suspension strut spreader.
By how many mm would you open up the suspension strut bracket in order to release the suspension strut.
 
Suspension strut spreader.
By how many mm would you open up the suspension strut bracket in order to release the suspension strut.
Draper and Laser make a tool specifically for this. We’re talking a few mm. Invaluable tool for what it is. Because it’s on a 1/2” ratchet socket, it’s easy to turn to spread. Use a little engine oil to lube before you rebuild.
 
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Nut on the pinch bolt game off way too easily. I can see the rust on the pinch bolt now, and it won't budge or be persuaded with a large hammer. Was trying not to use heat in order to save the upper control arms, but looks like they may need to be sacrificed.
Which upper control arms would you choose and any idea of cost?
 
Nut on the pinch bolt game off way too easily. I can see the rust on the pinch bolt now, and it won't budge or be persuaded with a large hammer. Was trying not to use heat in order to save the upper control arms, but looks like they may need to be sacrificed.
Which upper control arms would you choose and any idea of cost?
If it was me, Meyle HD (4 year warranty) or Lemforder. No idea of cost, but still cheaper than main dealer. If you fit cheap arms you'll be doing the same job in 6 months to a year.

Remember to position one of the new upper arms when you take one of the old ones off for the angle, (saves stressing the bushes). Torque with vehicle on the ground.
 
Some of the pinch bolts are stepped; that is, recessed to reduce the amount of surface area contact with the upright aluminum arm.
Anyone fitted one of those to this model. And where's the cheapest place to get one. Thanks
 
Anyone else has problems with water ingress into the compartment to the left of the boot where all the fuses and relays are housed. Checked all grommets, sealed all light unit holes etc - water seems to be tracking between panels on rear valence behind bumper but I can’t be sure !
Has anyone else had this problem and found and fixed the issue ?
Thanks
Ben

Some of the pinch bolts are stepped; that is, recessed to reduce the amount of surface area contact with the upright aluminum arm.
Anyone fitted one of those to this model. And where's the cheapest place to get one. Thanks
No aware of that, but suspect Audi revise parts all the time. Add anti-seize (not copper grease) to the pinch bolt shaft before fitting. I think I've used Granville Ceramic Brake Grease (which is fine for aluminium). In terms of sourcing - just order from main dealer. The pinch bolts aren't expensive.
 
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