Raceland coilovers- my experience and installation

swisstony

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So after umming and ahhhing for a while and some great advice from guys on here, ordered some Raceland coilovers for my car. They didnt have the Ultimo in stock but I wasnt too fussed so got the standard ones.
Arrived super fast and over the last 3 days ( yes you read that right ) I fitted them. It took that long because work kept getting in the way and so it was mostly afternoons , friday, saturday and today. I have watched the official Raceland video several times and a few others but I just wish my install had gone that quick or smooth. All I can say is what an absolute ballache of a job.

Rears
These are meant to be the easier to do (well that what the video would make you believe ) but literally around 6 hours to do one side ! Taking the strut out was easy, two bolts at the top, one at the bottom and something else. Cant recall. Then dropped the hub down and that is when you come across your first issue. In the video they say drop the two sub frame mounts but only by an inch. doing that is meant to give you enough slack to bring the hub down...nope
1. You need to loosen your rear anti roll bar
2. You need to disengage the two bolts holding the brake hose to the body or else it will be way to tight on the hose...
3 Then you need to literally have someone bounce the hub whilst yanking on the rear spring to bring it out...*******
Finally it came out with loads of swearing .
The old knackered struts ( both were shot and didnt retract and extend )

IMG 1398


IMG 1401

Then it was a case of swapping over the top, added in new bump stops and covers and guess on the setting for the adjustment.
Spring was easier to get in because it was shorter but strut was a bit harder as trying to align all the bolts meant up and down like a yo-yo with a jack. Then ARB bolts, remember the brake lines and drop the car.
Then realise it was too high so you have to literally do the same process again because there is no way you can wind down the spring as it is on so much tension. Anyway adjusted and all back together and then did the same on the other side .
IMG 1404

IMG 1412

IMG 1410


Now onto the fronts so day two.
Again never as easier as the video ( I wanted to smack the guy in the video in the face when he made it look so easier ) but added into the mix was the fact I had to sort out an MOT advisory as one of the Tie-rod ends was perished.
So before
IMG 1413

IMG 1415
IMG 1422

So undoing the strut, drop link for ARB and tie-rod end was fairly striaght forward but those two turkey arms thingys were a PITA. Once undone from the engine bay literally had to wiggle it out enough I could get a spanner and socket on the bolts. Then discovered that you need to get someone ( the wife came in handy as she said she had eaten enough cakes to make a differnce :) ) bounce the hub again to get the strut out.
Clamped the springs to take the tension meant I could work on the top nut but had to shock the strut as I didnt have a swan neck spanner to get enough grip. Replaced the bump stops and left the pre-load spring height as they came which turned out to be a big mistake.

Finally got it back in , all buttoned up , dropped the car to discover it was way too low. More on this later but it was dark so another day

Day three ( yes I know ) came out to do other side. Much quicker this time but once dropped, could see where the problem was.

My driveway is on a slope and the road also slopes so makes it very tricky when coming on/off the driveway as with the splitter it is close. So could see I was way too low and scraped the splitter. Back on and off with the wheel , and started adjusting. Wind up, wheel on, back down, try again. Repeat about 17 million times. Finally as the light was going and my wife shining a torch on the splitter as I came off the driveway got it spot on.
So no shots of how it sits now but have been for a drive and already feels much better, not crashing and just so much nicer.
IMG 1429


IMG 1427


oh and the tie-rod end replaced

IMG 1417
 
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Well, that's a long overdue job done by the looks of those old parts, and you will most certainly notice the improvement.:icon thumright:

To be fair you probably had a more problematic job as I doubt any of the old parts have ever been touched until now, so on a car that may have had suspension work done before it would have been a lot easier.
That said it is normally as easy as the video shows, ive swapped my front and rears about 4 times in the last 6 years, and the first time can be difficult and there is a knack to it.
I did my KW's in a long afternoon last November which was fine.
The same with getting the ride height nearly close enough so you only need to make a couple of adjustments, and measure the length of the old assembled units on removal so you have a starting ref point when rebuilding the new assemblies.
Rears are not normally difficult if tackled the right way.

Now then, the rear adjuster situation with Raceland units, is one reason I went with the KW's as the ride height adjuster is at the top and way easier to adjust .
It only takes 30 mins top to both my rears .

At least you managed to avoid that pinch bolt.:yahoo:
I know it is a bit late now but I meant to say, when you replace that tie rod end, measure and mark everything so when refittings its allmost exactly the same length.

Hopefully, you are able to get it all set up without any further hassles.
Looking forward to piccy's chap.
 
Kw fronts only use one adjuster ring too which is a real bonus, it has a locking grub screw that stops it rotating when not being adjusted.

1668976805679
 
To be fair you probably had a more problematic job as I doubt any of the old parts have ever been touched until now, so on a car that may have had suspension work done before it would have been a lot easier.
Yes I think that was where I was up against it to be fair. Swearing, coffee breaks, jumping up and down and more swearing was the order of the day
Now then, the rear adjuster situation with Raceland units, is one reason I went with the KW's as the ride height adjuster is at the top and way easier to adjust .
It only takes 30 mins top to both my rears .

At least you managed to avoid that pinch bolt.:yahoo:
I know it is a bit late now but I meant to say, when you replace that tie rod end, measure and mark everything so when refittings its allmost exactly the same length.

Hopefully, you are able to get it all set up without any further hassles.
Looking forward to piccy's chap.
It was a little late but no worries. Wasnt until I dropped it and thought that looks odd. But a quick post on here and someone helped me out
As the tie-rod end on the drivers side was the only thing I had messed with I knew it had to be that.
Luckily I had the old one in the garage so could see by the weather marks where it sat originally.

Pictures will be up when I can though please dont laugh when you see the front as I need it to be like that to get on the drivway :)
Might lower it by 10mm as that is the most drop I can get away with.
 
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I had to change my drivers' side too , not a dust cover issue, more a case of the local tire centre being unable to loosen it to adjust things, i loosened it with no probs, i think they just couldn't be ***** to be honest so replaced it anyway.
 
Well at least you tick this upgrade etc off your bucket list :icon thumright:
 
give the suspension a couple of months to settle and you'll probably need to do a quick adjustment.
 
So after umming and ahhhing for a while and some great advice from guys on here, ordered some Raceland coilovers for my car. They didnt have the Ultimo in stock but I wasnt too fussed so got the standard ones.
Arrived super fast and over the last 3 days ( yes you read that right ) I fitted them. It took that long because work kept getting in the way and so it was mostly afternoons , friday, saturday and today. I have watched the official Raceland video several times and a few others but I just wish my install had gone that quick or smooth. All I can say is what an absolute ballache of a job.

Rears
These are meant to be the easier to do (well that what the video would make you believe ) but literally around 6 hours to do one side ! Taking the strut out was easy, two bolts at the top, one at the bottom and something else. Cant recall. Then dropped the hub down and that is when you come across your first issue. In the video they say drop the two sub frame mounts but only by an inch. doing that is meant to give you enough slack to bring the hub down...nope
1. You need to loosen your rear anti roll bar
2. You need to disengage the two bolts holding the brake hose to the body or else it will be way to tight on the hose...
3 Then you need to literally have someone bounce the hub whilst yanking on the rear spring to bring it out...*******
Finally it came out with loads of swearing .
The old knackered struts ( both were shot and didnt retract and extend )

View attachment 261380

View attachment 261381
Then it was a case of swapping over the top, added in new bump stops and covers and guess on the setting for the adjustment.
Spring was easier to get in because it was shorter but strut was a bit harder as trying to align all the bolts meant up and down like a yo-yo with a jack. Then ARB bolts, remember the brake lines and drop the car.
Then realise it was too high so you have to literally do the same process again because there is no way you can wind down the spring as it is on so much tension. Anyway adjusted and all back together and then did the same on the other side .
View attachment 261382
View attachment 261383
View attachment 261384

Now onto the fronts so day two.
Again never as easier as the video ( I wanted to smack the guy in the video in the face when he made it look so easier ) but added into the mix was the fact I had to sort out an MOT advisory as one of the Tie-rod ends was perished.
So before
View attachment 261385
View attachment 261386View attachment 261387
So undoing the strut, drop link for ARB and tie-rod end was fairly striaght forward but those two turkey arms thingys were a PITA. Once undone from the engine bay literally had to wiggle it out enough I could get a spanner and socket on the bolts. Then discovered that you need to get someone ( the wife came in handy as she said she had eaten enough cakes to make a differnce :) ) bounce the hub again to get the strut out.
Clamped the springs to take the tension meant I could work on the top nut but had to shock the strut as I didnt have a swan neck spanner to get enough grip. Replaced the bump stops and left the pre-load spring height as they came which turned out to be a big mistake.

Finally got it back in , all buttoned up , dropped the car to discover it was way too low. More on this later but it was dark so another day

Day three ( yes I know ) came out to do other side. Much quicker this time but once dropped, could see where the problem was.

My driveway is on a slope and the road also slopes so makes it very tricky when coming on/off the driveway as with the splitter it is close. So could see I was way too low and scraped the splitter. Back on and off with the wheel , and started adjusting. Wind up, wheel on, back down, try again. Repeat about 17 million times. Finally as the light was going and my wife shining a torch on the splitter as I came off the driveway got it spot on.
So no shots of how it sits now but have been for a drive and already feels much better, not crashing and just so much nicer.
View attachment 261389

View attachment 261390

oh and the tie-rod end replaced

View attachment 261391

d15bf29bb93d7ccabd6c0c34c21de455.jpg

Too late now but hopefully someone may find it useful
Handy set up to avoid having someone bounce on the hub when removing rear springs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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d15bf29bb93d7ccabd6c0c34c21de455.jpg

Too late now but hopefully someone may find it useful
Handy set up to avoid having someone bounce on the hub when removing rear springs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now you tell me :)
Nice hack and worth noting if I need it in the future ( if wife is not available !! )
 
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