New member, new owner, new issues...

[Shedonist]

Just bought a 2002 Audi A3 tdi Quattro, which I really like... BUT

I think that the DMF has failed as the heavy rattle from the clutch / flywheel / gearbox area is worrying to say the least. New clutch and DMF ordered and on it's way. Just hope it's not the box itself, no noticeable bearing rumble, grinding, whining or selection issues... Looks like there is a small oil leak which may be from the box or transfer, are there any seals I should get as a precaution?

On a separate note there are a number of central locking issues that I have discovered while trying to find out why the remotes won't sync.

The story so far...

• The radio was in safe mode with no code supplied
• Can only lock and unlock the car from the drivers door
• The boot only operates from the key, the touch buttons do not function
• When the boot lock is turned to the open position the car doors lock and vice versa
• The display shows correct open / closed status of both doors and boot

What I have deduced...

• The radio works fine now I have reconnected the CAN lines at the radio connector -> so must be the original
• The central locking pump has been swapped for an earlier non radio one -> that sorts out the remotes! Correct replacement will be ordered
• I have had the lock out and both the switches, all functioning as expected and meter out OK

So can anyone tell me the colours of the wires that run to the boot key lock in order from bottom to top or plug positions 1-3 I guess the middle one will be the brown one (as mine is) as I suspect there may have been some tampering somewhere. Why they would ever be transposed is anyones guess but there may be a theme here... A wiring diagram would be great if anyone has one to hand.

Thanks in advance, all comments appreciated...

 

[tcg]

So can anyone tell me the colours of the wires that run to the boot key lock in order from bottom to top or plug positions 1-3 I guess the middle one will be the brown one (as mine is) as I suspect there may have been some tampering somewhere.

Photo taken with the hatch up, the red wire is closet to the inside of the hatch, brown -middle and white/black farthest away from hatch body.

 

[Shedonist]

Many thanks for the picture... Looks like all the wiring is correct and all tests through with no issues.
Suspect the pump is at fault, will replace that and see where it leads me... At least the driver's door logic appears unaffected.

Have had the gearbox off and replaced the flywheel and clutch etc. Flywheel was locked solid with bolts obscured, grinder sorted that out! The gearbox was low on oil but I think it will be OK, fresh oil going in today.

 

[IPG]

when i first got my car by soft touch buttons to open the boot weren't working and i changed the the vacuum pump for another. opened it up and switched PCB boards - replacement pump only activates for a very short while (previously it would run for 5 or so seconds) and boot opens

maybe your keys haven't been matched to the car or has de synrconised due to a key fob battery change?

also recently the latch suddenly stopped working. replaced it with a 2nd hand latch from the wreckers - all good again!

 

[Shedonist]

The pump that I have is the H version which I believe does not support Radio Remote so my keys have no chance of working remotely... I also think that the pump logic is messed up as everything seems to be functioning as expected with the exception of the boot key lock. There is no obvious water damage to the PCB, a few pins were slightly discoloured and I have cleaned those up OK.

I will be fitting a replacement central locking pump that supports remote locking and hopefully that will also cure the other issues. I can hear the relay clicking when the boot buttons are pressed so I guess that the contacts in the relay have been damaged and no longer function correctly. The drivers door lock does exactly as expected i.e. it locks and unlocks all the doors correctly via the central locking.

I will have a look at the measuring blocks on the central locking pump via VCDS when I get another set of hands to operate the locks etc, that should put my wiring fears to rest.

Thanks for your input.

 

[Shedonist]

Well I managed to get hold of another pump, 8D0 862 257E... I have to admit that I was looking for a closer match, part number wise, but when one comes up described as an A3 rear washer pump for £9 delivered you don't ask too many questions ;-)

All fitted and coded and for the first time since we bought the car we can open it without the keys. The boot soft touch buttons even work, and I have a spare graphite impeller now too, might play the lottery this week.

Can finally start enjoying that car now all the fluids are staying put, gearbox leak was the drain plug being loose and the coolant leak was a pinhole in the small 8mm pipe that comes from the back of the head to the reservoir, via the solid pipes along the front of the engine, caused by fuel damage from the tandem pump. Found that one thanks to this forum, keep up the good work.

 

[Erikn89nl]

Good work

 

[ayfreetee]

I love it when a plan comes together