Interesting door lock issue (with a fix)

leshkin

Hold my beer...
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Today was a fun-filled evening for me... I realised today that my rear right door lock seemed to not engage after using the remote.

VCSD Scan returned this error from the following modules:
  • 08: Auto HVAC
  • 09: Cent. Elect.
  • 19 CAN Gateway

01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
004 - No Signal/Communication

After many searches on your favourite Audi forum as well as Google it seems that among failed locking mechanism modules and water damage, etc, a very common issue is the wiring harness that connects the control module in question to the car's CAN bus.

In most cases checking the condition of the wires inside the rubber boot between car body and door resulted in one or two pinched wires which were broken and required reconnecting in order to resolve the issue. This works fine for 3-door A3s.

I have a Sportback and after checking the rear door boot, all wires seemed in perfect condition. At this point I was a little worried about having to shell out for a new door control module or harness and begun searching for pricing for the replacement. It's at this point I stumbled on this post, where the OP found that the wiring for the rear doors actually goes through the front for some reason and checking front door wiring harness is in order!

After performing the same check on the driver's front door, I found two completely broken wires and some that had insulation damage. I shudder to think what kind of ECU problems I would be having if those wires were shorting or something!

I now have a choice of repairing the damaged wires or replacing the loom. At £100 for a new door loom, I'm leaning towards creative wire butchery :) Will check the other side looms too, and do some preventative work if needed.

Anyway, posting this here for the future generations of poor A3 Sportback owners, who are likely to keep having these issues for some time to come.
 
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This is fairly common. I had a problem myself with my front door a couple of weeks ago with a broken wire.

Soldered the broken wire back up and then used a glue gun to cover the new join over (it needs strength to stop it happening again and insulation tape will just move around as the door opens and closes).

I'll see if it holds, If it doesn't then it's a new harness at about 88 quid (no point buying a cheap one on Ebay as it will already be part worn).

One thing I will say is that the wiring harness design is cr*p. Those wires get moved back and forth every time you open the door. No wonder they break! They appear to be no higher grade than the kind of wires you find coming out of a PC power supply (which I just happen to have sitting next to me as I type).
 
Yeah, the main point for me was the diagnosing this was a bit hard without knowing that rear door's module is daisy chained on to the front, which is not apparent.

Hopefully a bit of solder and heatshrink will hold.
 

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