Failed window regulator? 2006 S3

Daveyonthemove

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Tonight I attempted to lower my drivers side window and heard an almighty 'crack' and the window failed to move.
I can hear the motor working when the switch is activated, so I don't think the motor has failed.
I have pulled the fuse on the window so I don't accidentally move anything inside the door and risk the window dropping.
Is this likely to be a regulator, or something else (I know it's tricky to diagnose it online)?
if anyone has experienced this problem and knows what parts could be needed I would appreciate some pointers in the parts I might need.

Thanks in advance.
 
Regulator probably snapped & got trapped, remove card & inspect, changed quite a few tbh.
 
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I had to fix the regulator on a Fabia recently. The window had gone down but then would not go back up again and lots of nasty noises.
I bought a replacement from ECP and no problems since.
 
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Regulator probably snapped & got trapped, remove card & inspect, changed quite a few tbh.
I'm in the right area then, good to know. Is it a pain of a job, or not too bad?

I had to fix the regulator on a Fabia recently. The window had gone down but then would not go back up again and lots of nasty noises.
I bought a replacement from ECP and no problems since.
Thanks for the reply, I'll check ECP for a replacement and try and get it repaired before mine gets stuck all the way down (hoping it hasn't dropped overnight).
 
I'm in the right area then, good to know. Is it a pain of a job, or not too bad?


Thanks for the reply, I'll check ECP for a replacement and try and get it repaired before mine gets stuck all the way down (hoping it hasn't dropped overnight).

The job looks quite complicated as it involves removing the window frame from the door. However, from what I can see the glass and the regulator comes out at the same time so that will be easier to work on out if the car than the older Mk 4 Golf platform.
I would be organising a friend to help me lifting out and replacing the frame as it could be awkward with the glass and regulator and you don’t want to scratch anything.
 
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Be careful as client bought an ecp unit & I found the fixings weren't as per original & had to modify to fit, so dont take the frame out until you've got it in hand & compare.

I've done it quite a few times, you have to be careful of course, also know what you're doing technically that is.
 
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That does sound like it exceeds my limited DIY skillset.
Thanks for the info, I'll get it looked at by someone else on this occasion.
 
Ping me a WhatsApp mate, number in signatures
 
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wise move.

I tried this on an A4 of mine. First regulator in-coiled itself so I bought another. Finally got it in but it was a pita

They're not fun to do, but needs must.
 
Thanks for the video, but NHN and I are in discussions to get it sorted with OEM parts.
I'm happy to try some stuff myself, but with limited tools and experience there are jobs like these that are better left to the professionals.
 
Thanks for the video, but NHN and I are in discussions to get it sorted with OEM parts.
I'm happy to try some stuff myself, but with limited tools and experience there are jobs like these that are better left to the professionals.

tools wise, there isnt that many needed. some torx drivers and a socket set and youre good, but fair enough if you dont wanna do the job yourself.
attached a couple bits of extra info for anyone else that sees this thread.

re: the oem parts. etka price for the regulator is £130 inc vat.
part number is 8p3837462c (right side, 2 door)

autodoc has regulators from valeo or magneti marelli, which id bet a left nut one of which is the oem (likely valeo) for between £45 to £64.
at worst half price, at best about a third. why pay more for the same thing.

ecp, like most of the things they sell other than basic service items, are ****. they offer a 'starline' branded regulator
 

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Very handy info, thanks.
TPS have quoted £100.32 (trade) so that's not too bad for peace of mind on it being direct replacement.
 
100 aint bad at all for genuine.
all the best
 
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Quick update.
Part number is S8P3837462C (S means Superseded)
£120.38 (inc VAT). VAT wasn't included on my original quote, which is annoying/misleading.

This is from TPS for OEM parts.
 
when you mentioned trade in your last post, it did cross my mind about the vat, but assumed either you or nhn had an account or a hookup.
either way youve got it now.

that part has been superseded 3 times (the S isnt part of the part number, the letter at the end denotes supersession).
8p3837462
8p3837462A 01/08/2005
8p3837462B 01/06/2010
8p3837462C 01/06/2011

so the current part on your car would be an A. sadly doesnt say what was changed, could be a change of supplier or to rectify a known fault.
 
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when you mentioned trade in your last post, it did cross my mind about the vat, but assumed either you or nhn had an account or a hookup.
either way youve got it now.

that part has been superseded 3 times (the S isnt part of the part number, the letter at the end denotes supersession).
8p3837462
8p3837462A 01/08/2005
8p3837462B 01/06/2010
8p3837462C 01/06/2011

so the current part on your car would be an A. sadly doesnt say what was changed, could be a change of supplier or to rectify a known fault.
Thanks again for the info and clarification.
I just read the number off the invoice and there is a footnote stating the S (on the front of the part number) stands for Superseded, which appears to be correct as the part ends in 'C', but I wasn't aware that it wasn't part of the part number.

As for the account, a family member opened a TPS account earlier in the year but we've hardly used it so I forgot about it until i mentioned the problem to them and they offered to get a quote.
 
All done today for £200 all in.
Not the best time of year to have a bill like this, but it coincided with a compensation pay out for an accident in October, so it could have been worse.
Hopefully the above info will help others in the future.
 
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