Central locking pump has eventualy died-

[Essexman]

Can press the remote, indicators flash, alarm activated

But have to lock doors manualy with key

just wondering if its a simple case of whipping out the old & diy replacement of a new one (same part number)
or leave it to a garage,

Also is there a slighter better upgraded part to last longer etc, or just stick to original part number

Once this is done hopefully it wont make a slow wurring when unlocking, and more of a short sharp unlock/ lock

 

[karpe]

Have you checked the pipe connections for leaks?

On my previous car (A3 AGU) the pump's circuit got damaged due to moisture, I just swapped the the pump with an identical unit. I do not recall that any coding was involed.

Some pumps are backwards compatible, but don't remember which ones.

 

[localknoxville]

Had a problem with mine too so just bought one from a scrappy and it's been spot on with no problems. Check the pipes for leaks or kinks, sometimes that can cause issues with them

 

[Essexman]

Thanks for above posts, i found a couple of other (very old) threads on here with some advice, i followed the basic guide, took it out last night, found the 'common' problem of the graphite disc wheel broken up into peices, im just thinking weather to replace the whole unit with new one (expensive), replace with secondhand (chance of problem happening again) or a 'kit' to fix the existing one, the 'kit' seems to just be the pump/motor connected to the needed graphite disc thing & it mentioned that 'with the kit you dont need to re code with vcds like you would with a replacement unit) i havent got vcds, dont want to be locked out of my car or anything like that, so the 'kit' thing might be the way to go for me

 

[Essexman]

Anyone know the main difference between the pump part numbers -
8L0 862 257 P, Then the same but with an 'E' on the end, or 'G'
My current broken one ends in 'G' but just wondered the difference