Hi,i am about change a failed front droplink on my A3 , i took the wheel off a couple of days and sprayed both top and bottom bolts with penetrating spray .
Yesterday i tried to remove the top bolt as that is facing away from the engine and i eventually got it moving without having to put a hex key in the bolt shaft ..When it came to the bottom one my 18mm ratchet spanner would not shift it and i can't get any extra leverage on the spanner ,also there is no room at the back to fit a hex key so plan B is to just grind it off and i have plenty of space to do that ,what i am baffled with is when i put the new one on i would just have to hope that it would not need the hex key to tighten up ,with it being new i doubt it but just strange that you cannot get behind to fit a hex key,when i move the plastic arch trim there is plate behind stopping me fit the key,as anyone come across this before or am i missing something as said top one fine bottom ok to remove with grinder but refitting does not give you room to fit the hex key ...
Yesterday i tried to remove the top bolt as that is facing away from the engine and i eventually got it moving without having to put a hex key in the bolt shaft ..When it came to the bottom one my 18mm ratchet spanner would not shift it and i can't get any extra leverage on the spanner ,also there is no room at the back to fit a hex key so plan B is to just grind it off and i have plenty of space to do that ,what i am baffled with is when i put the new one on i would just have to hope that it would not need the hex key to tighten up ,with it being new i doubt it but just strange that you cannot get behind to fit a hex key,when i move the plastic arch trim there is plate behind stopping me fit the key,as anyone come across this before or am i missing something as said top one fine bottom ok to remove with grinder but refitting does not give you room to fit the hex key ...